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Engine stalling when in gear.

douglas17

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Engine stalls when in gear, with foot on the brake. Engine was running fine , transmission shifted smoothly drove about 20 miles. First stop light, foot on brake engine stalls. put it in park engine starts right up, put it in drive engine stalls. brought it home and with back wheels off the ground engine ideals with trans in R or D with wheels spinning. Wheels back on ground engine stalls.
Could the torque converter be the cause ? Engine is 340 with 727 auto trans. Fluid is clear and no smells.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Often carb tuning , any carb has a Power Valve circuit but different ways to tune it , if the vacuum drops too low at idle in gear the powervalve will open & add fuel enrichening the fuel mix causing it to stall . You need to get a vacuum reading at idle in gear , the power valve needs to be 2" lower than that reading to stay closed
 

Xcudame

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What carburetor is on it? And what's the condition? Does the engine run fine cold or warm when not in gear? What is the engine's idle speed when warm? What's the timing set at? I'm still leaning towards the torque convertor/transmission as the culprit, but we need to make sure the engine is healthy when warm.
 

douglas17

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engine is a 1969 340 with a 6 pack, has new carbs from Holley. Engine idles just fine cold or hot. you can apply brake peddle when in park or neutral has no effect on Engine. Put trans in R or 1 2 D Transmission works properly and shifts. Soon as you touch the brake peddle engine stumbles and stalls. acting like the fluid coupling in torque converter not working. Replaced Torque converter with new B+M unit , Didn't make any difference . still Banging my head again the wall! ( for safety I am wearing a helmet) .
 

douglas17

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Should mention Transmission has a Locar kick down cable .Installed as there directions exactly. Could this be applying to much pressure on the kick down leaver tricking the valve body that its performing the wrong function .
 

Xcudame

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DO NOT run the vehicle very long this way, but temporarily disconnect the locker cable and wire the kickdown lever all the way back. If the cable was the problem, this will prove it. Just don't run it too much this way because it will cause severe harm to your transmission.

Do you have power brakes? If so, disconnect the vacuum booster and plug the fitting supplying the vacuum. Brakes will be very low and suck, but it will point to a problem with the vacuum booster. Might be leaking and causing a severe vacuum leak which will kill the engine when engaged.
 
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