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Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Hemi blocks are definitely taller than a 340 and used different parts than the small block shackers and a different base than the other big blocks (2 four barrels). Can't wait to see some pictures!

After checking all the above, and it's OK, make sure you take your car to a place that's smart enough to set the ride height before attempting an alignment! Also, you want to use specifications from later B or R Body that has radial tires.

There is no seal, just plastic fitted into plastic. The awesome guys above answered your vacuum question.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! 70 Challengers are pretty nice! The first iteration of the new Challengers were based off of 1970s and then the second iteration was based off of 1971s. I like the 72-74 Challengers, but they do have that "sad mouth" and only had small blocks from the factory...

E61 is a two barrel, E63 is a four barrel. At least for 70. There was at one time (1968 in particular) when there were two different 383 4 barrel. The Roadrunner and Super Bee has a 335 hp version (bigger camshaft and stiffer springs) and there was the 330 HP version in everything else. I could...

Just throwing this out there, if it's a down flow radiator (as opposed to a cross flow), I prefer the inlet and outlet to be on opposite sides. Proven better cooling that way.

I can see 425492 in the above body stamp. Heck, no engine and transmission, you can put whatever you want in there! I'm partial to big blocks myself, but modern Gen III Hemis get my vote as well! That being said, the Mopar small block is pretty awesome too! My opinion, slant six numbers...

My understanding is that for the B and E-Bodies they only built the E63 383 HP four barrel 383. @Vaanth 's documentation points to this as well!

I think you're OK. Post a picture of the VIN, door sticker or Fender Tag! The numbers on the body are stamped pretty deep on your car. Sometimes a shot of the backside of the radiator yoke will give a nicer mirror view.

😂 (I really miss that button!)

Pictures will help a lot.

The knurled section is smaller (.665" vs . 675" for the Dorman), so should work!

Honestly that's kinda sad Don! But at least you're having fun!! 🤪

I agree with @pschlosser, the rear end noise might be something other than the rear axle gears. Check the U-joints. Going from 3.23 to 3.55 gears will increase rpm by 10%. Not sure what you mean by compression 10 to 10, but what you want is all cylinders bring close to one another. Actually a...

RockAuto (or Dorman 610103 part number): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,challenger,5.6l+340cid+v8,1078680,wheel,lug+stud,7680 When installing the studs don't be tempted to use the threads and a wheel nut to install them! I use a vise (Harbor Freight) and a deep socket. It takes...

Keep us posted on what CNC says/does for you. Because anything less than .006" rod clearance will likely cause very bad things to happen when normal operation temperature is reached and you've got too much labour and money in your AAR Cuda for that kind of headache! And the .030" will allow a...

Mopars can be made to handle extremely well!

Nothing. The heater box and defroster don't know the AC is gone. I removed my AC from my 70 Challenger years ago before I moved to Arizona! Thanking about putting it back now!

I'm tagging my good friend @heminut on this one as he has the 5.7 Hemi in his Cuda!

My Mopar brothers have answered this pretty good, but I wanted to throw in my two cents. There will be a casting date on the intake manifold and it should be a few days to a couple months before the production date your car was built! For a unique example of on time delivery, my 64 Imperial's...