Thanks again for all the help/suggestions regarding checking for an correcting the level state of my car. As I was mucking about with my shiny new laser, I found out one of my jig rails isn't as flat as it should/could be. No big deal since the driving force behind the design was near "infinite"...
Thanks again, I really do appreciate your input and hope I'm not coming across as argumentative. I'm paying attention to everything you're pointing out, you can be sure of that.
Exactly, they didn't worry about it, but they didn't have to since the fixtures the sub assemblies got tossed onto were solid and made it dummy proof. Every one of those locator pins was tested before production runs happened. It's why their are 'body in white' cars, they were test builds that...
Pretty darn close actually. I'd estimate 80% of the sheet metal is being replaced, maybe more.
F/R frame rails
Floor/trunk
1/4's
Tail panel
all three crossmembers
forewall/upper cowl
hinge and inner cowl panels
Inner/Outer rockers
entire front clip
Outer wheel wells
and all the misc parts in...
Yes again we agree. I'm not using a transit with black widow silk cross hairs and I realize that. I'm stacking the deck in my favor. The less error I have now, the less I need to "fix" later.
Yup, been looking at them for a while so I'm familiar with how to test them and they "can" be calibrated but it will void the warranty since you have to crack them open and adjust the pendulum weights.
The bubble I'm talking about is the old traditional 4 or 8 foot level, not the one on top...
I completely agree with this and basically what I'm saying. I could use a level, but I don't trust "my" use of them. I could use the rockers themselves as "winding sticks" but again, lack of experience and not trusting my vision keeps me from doing it.
I want to stack the deck in my favor...
While that's a very fair statement is seems as though where they were pretty good was the chassis level stuff such that we actually have dimensions everyone seems to use so I'm trying to be as accurate as possible.
The dimensions I've seen people take of just the front end parts (inner...
Getting ready to purchase a laser level to verify the car is indeed "level" before doing anything else.
To that and I have a couple of questions.
1. Most of the levels I've seen are accurate to "1/9" or just over 0.1" over 33 ft. Since the car is less than half that, is that accurate enough...
Did some quick measurements on the car just now and holy-smokes was the back end sitting low. If were wearing hiphuggers I'd be making fun of it...
Turns out I'm just over an inch low at the shackle mount which is also shown at the rear door gap being way too wide at the top. To test the "one...
Fantastic. Taking your measurements and combining them with the drawing you posted, it all makes sense!
Now I can with confidence put the height of the rear, where it "should" be and verify everything is lined up.
Thanks again!
Corey
I'm curious about the measurements across the top of the tail light panel. Looks like the center is 3/8' _lower_ than end ends? Am I reading that right?
I always wondered how to read that diagram and that makes sense.
Looks like the rear shackle mounts are 8" above the "0" line (rocker) which is then 6.2" above the bottom of the frame rail for a 14.2 total, then with my 6.25" datum line, my shackle mounts "should" be 20.45" above the datum.