Years ago a friend of mine was following me in my 70 Challenger as we were getting on the freeway. Basically stock with factory sway bars front and rear with the 440/426 extra heavy duty leaf springs and Monroe shocks (no fancy shocks back then). His words, "On the freeway on ramp, your back...
Good, but expensive learning experience. Always, and I mean always, double check everything yourself. This time will be much better!! And work well. We'll follow along and see everything this time! 🙂
Definitely at TDC with cylinder #1 and your "red" timing cover looks to aline perfectly with the harmonic balancer on the engine now. So I agree, install the "red" cover and you'll be golden! Much easier to see on the driver's side!
With the three bolts that hold the steering column plate to the firewall slightly loose so you can wiggle everything around, you can center the steering shaft inside the tube. I used to use cut down popsicle sticks in three places to hold the shaft centered into the tube, and then tightened the...
@Juan Veldez, looking good so far! Remember to put lots of break in lube between each lifter and the corresponding camshaft lobe! And don't forget a dab of silicon sealant at all four corners of the cylinder head, block and intake mounting areas.
Since now you can see your timing mark, bring cylinder #1 to top dead center (distributor rotor will be pointing towards #1 cylinder on small blocks). Then see where you're harmonic balancer line is in relation to the timing marks on your current timing cover. Right now I can see the harmonic...
Most of the time with the adjustable pinion snubber, you have to cut it down so it winds up being just a little taller than the factory stock pinion snubber.
I'll add some:
After market Kenwood stereo and speakers with blu-tooth to the cellphone, but the engine and exhaust is kinda loud to talk on the phone.
I added a factory rear swaybar back in the early 90s. And converted the front drum brakes using all Mopar parts per the old Mopar Action...
Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Nice looking 72 Challenger! Post a "wanted to buy" for your 8 3/4".
I've been to Sandy Oregon many years ago in my 70 Challenger visiting the wife's cousin who used to live there. Beautiful country!
I think a two row or three row would be better than a four row. The rows in the two or three row will be wider than the one with four rows and help with cooling better as the fourth row in a four row radiator is blocked by the previous three rows.
Remember, it's airflow being forced through...
I have not used this particular radiator supplier, but it looks good. They give lots of dimensions including fan shroud dimensions.
https://ecp-radiator.com/products/22-mopar-big-block-hd-aluminum-radiator
Might want to attach a picture of the crank. All crackshafts have the recess for the automatic torque converter snout, and most have a rough hole drilled for the manual transmission spline because it was used in the machine process, but only some were reamed and the oilite bushing installed.
You can buy three 360s for the price of a 340. If you already have one of each (360 and 340), if it was me, I'd keep the 340 for your Cuda and buy a stroker kit for the 360. If you're lucky, you have a 71-74 360 with 3418496 casted into it. They have 340 cylinder cores and thus stiffer cylinder...
Since your car is painted and you may not want to modify the radiator passenger panel, a good two row aluminum radiator will be fine. Make sure you get a fan shroud, that's a big part of the cooling.
@HPP is right for bracket racing! I saw a slant six Valiant running a consistent 17.6 second quarter put everything on the trailer back in the late 1980s. And I saw a 1967 barracuda with a 440 and lousy paint job put $40,000+ cars on the trailer. Bracket racing is all about consistency.
The...
Not really a simple fix. I just put this out to modern cars and gas stations, you're going to get some gas spillage from us older car guys! Deal with it! 🤪