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Passenger quarter was replaced but the weld line was an inch below that area. Original factory quarter on driver side. Looks like I’ll be installing torque boxes first and then weld repairing those areas.

Anybody seen this or had experience on how to fix it? I don’t know if the cracks are limited to just the paint, or if the body panel has cracked. I’m familiar with this issue on a B-body - driver side stress crack in panel - but not familiar with it on an E-body, and on BOTH sides. Any idea...

You might consider the Dynomax Ultra Flow’s. I’ve run them on my 440 2 1/2 pipes with both the manifolds and when I changed to headers. 2 1/2 in exhaust with an H pipe first and now an X pipe. (Kinda wish I’d kept the H. More turbulence = rougher “uneven” sound out of both sides.). Straight...

This is bad. Please tell me it’s a Photoshop. Here’s the link to the article: Photos: This is what Florida looks like after Hurricane Ian

Thanks a lot, guys. Will pursue all leads. Had a chance to buy one about four months ago through golden star but didn’t pull the trigger. Woulda, shoulda, cuda!

Hi all, anybody know who has a re-pop in stock - or soon to arrive? Been looking for 6 months. ETA’s on Jegs and Summit keep getting pushed several months out. I appreciate any leads!

Nice ride! And I like the “stance”. Curious what you’ve got lifting the rear? I’m thinking of raising mind up another inch with new +2” springs. No place around here to re-arch mine.

Hi, I’ve been trying to figure out why the driver side adjuster bolt is about an inch lower than the passenger side, and driver side wedge bump stop is right against the subframe? The passenger side wedge bump stop is 1/4” to the subframe. Level floor. Original torsion bars. Adjuster bolts...

Good alternative. Thanks.

Hello, does anybody make this? Carpet, not the vinyl mat. Cut and molded. Thank you!

Nice ride! I’m in the Tampa area too and will be looking for you on the road!

17" wheel size 8" or 9" width 5" or more back space

Hi DaveBob, is your factory combination valve completely functional - nothing gutted or disabled - and you added the adjustable valve to that? In other words, functional fixed valve AND adjustable valve? Thanks!

Hi rklein71, it looks as if you have an adjustable prop valve in addition to the prop valve built into the distribution block? Did you “gut” the block, or running both? Curious to know if this combo works well? I’ve got rear brake lock-up after changing to a modern aluminum Mopar master...