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I would contact a local HVAC shop. When my engine was built we used a mobile HVAC guy who made them on the spot for us.

In all the cars I've had with drum brakes over the decades, very few self adjusters have worked as they were designed. The one car I had that DID work required me to go pretty fast in reverse then hit the brakes for the adjuster to work properly, as you mentioned. Had to do this several times as...

Once you get the brakes adjusted so the drum slides on pretty easily, put a flat blade screwdriver (or old school adjusting "spoon" tool) into the access hole on the inside of the brake backing plate. There should be plastic or rubber plugs covering the holes but many cars don't have them...

After you rebuild you adjust each side so you just start to hear the drum dragging. After you put some miles on the car, go back and readjust. You don't want them too tight or they can really drag because of the heat of friction. Just adjust for some drag and do a test drive checking for...

I'm using Taylor wires. They're cut to fit but the boots hold very snugly to the NGK plugs I run.

Not enough demand for such a PCV. The ME Wagner adjustable PCV is the ticket even though it does not look "correct", it will function perfectly for your engine setup! I like it so much I put one on each of my two classic cars.

Actually, we need to give the engine what it wants with timing. Twenty is a little high, but going back to 10 is likely too much retard. Retarded timing will cause the engine to run hot, be down on power, and generally be unhappy. If you have an auto trans, the RPM drop going into gear should be...

There was the old joke about how car clocks were notoriously inaccurate!

The residual valve is only needed for the rear drum brakes. It simply keeps a little pressure on the rear wheel cylinders to prevent them from fully retracting after braking. This improves the pedal feel, but many have removed the valve without problems. Just ensure the rear brake shoes are...

Don't forget to check the plugs too. The AFR gauge setup is great for seeing how changes to your carb & timing affect things but the plugs will tell the real story.

Hey, I call false advertising! You don't have a 426 as shown... you have a MONSTER under that hood! Nice ride, sir!!!

Chrysler did not spend a penny more on better gauge wire on our old girls. Between the multi connector at the bottom of the steering column and the bulkhead connector, these are the most common trouble spots. If you don't already have a good sized bypass wire from the alternator to the starter...

The only issue you may have is if you currently have an original radiator and then go to aftermarket. The aftermarket radiators do not fit like original. The way the brackets are welded on pushes the radiator closer to the engine. You may have clearance issues that you should be aware of.

Yes, Mopars are a bit strange, but that's what makes Mopar guys the best too!

Thanks for letting us know how you fixed it!

Any shop can have a problem with a new engine even with taking meticulous care. If there is a local shop that has a great reputation that is current, then that could be a real plus. Many shops had a great reputation but the skilled guys are getting older, retiring, etc. and those taking their...

I had mufflers on my 440 Charger that were similar to the old thrush hush... and they were too loud. I removed them and went with what was then the sonic turbo's. Nice and quiet, and best of all I could actually hear my engine sing when the secondaries opened! I just really don't like not being...

The TTI fitment is very good on the driver side, but still close to the fenderwell on the passenger side. You will need to get the smaller, high torque starter for TTI or Dougs headers. Spark plug access is very easy on the driver side but still a bit challenging for the passenger side. I am...

I don't believe you can go any lower than 3.54 in your Dana. I installed a Strange (Dana) I got from Cass @ Dr Diff into my 72 Challenger. At that time Strange was offering a 3.23 gear so I got that. From the factory the Dana did not go lower than 3.54.

Yes! I would advance the timing until the engine idle stops increasing, then back the timing down a little. That is a good place to start. Most engines I've worked on the initial timing ends up being 15 to 18. It's amazing how the engine will like the additional timing!