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The project will likely cost you more than you thought, but don't go cheap and try to cut corners. Build it the way you want with quality parts, taking your time, and it will be reliable for years.

As for the PCV, you might want to check out the M/E Wagner dual flow PCV setup. https://mewagner.com/

Glad it worked out for you. You never know about pricing, could have gone the other way and increased in price too. Shimming the mounts is a common way to gain a bit of clearance when needed.

You don't need it to operate the brakes, but it keeps dust/moisture out of where the spindle enters the rotor.

Your engine will be a torque monster, so you won't need a high stall converter... especially for the street. Your issue will likely be having enough tires to hold the car to the pavement! Power is useless unless you can get it to the ground!

I use the O'Reilly Auto Parts 16# coolant recovery cap, part number "Murray 7616" with my coolant recovery setup. Works fine.

I had the same issue on my 72 Challenger 440 with 26" radiator. Got a Mr Gasket tank from Summit (mrg-9135), a 3/8" hose (OPG-CH28757) and a 16# coolant recovery cap from O'Reilly Auto (Murray 7616). Works great.

The actual numbers can vary depending on your compression ratio, camshaft, and even your elevation. Assume you know to block the throttle wide open and then test each cylinder. Run your test and report the numbers for each cylinder here. What you are looking for is consistency across the test. A...

Yep, forgot that & will need a primer shaft to go down into the oil pump!!!

Just squirt some oil into each spark plug hole and slowly turn the engine with a bar & socket on the crank bolt. I assume you've changed the oil & filter. After a few rotations with the bar, assuming it turns well, pull a valve cover then pull the distributor and prime the engine until you have...

Sure sounds like the radiator is not doing its job. There should be no "cold spot" like you're seeing. Hot coolant should flow evenly through the tubes. I took my 440 Challenger out the other day when it was in the low 80's. Temp stayed around 180-185 while driving 60. When I drove 75 on the...

Sometimes lubing the cable works, but often it does not. I prefer to replace the cable as an assembly instead of pulling the core, cleaning, and then lubing. The cost is not bad, and I got mine from Rick Ehrenberg and it fit great. To each his own...

Yep. Without pictures and even the model/year/kind of transmission of car we're just guessing. Edit: title of the thread is 904 so I stand corrected!

Can you take a picture of it?

The car did not come with that so looking for what others have done to get power. Also, I have the VA A/C setup too. The car came with dual electric fans and the VA setup. When the fans come on, the engine RPM's drop a little. When that happens and then the A/C comes on the engine struggles...

Those of you who installed an aftermarket A/C solenoid onto your carb; where did you get the power from? Did you splice into the compressor hot wire with a tap, or did you solder a wire into the comp hot wire? Wondering the best way to do this.

Kinda depends on what you want to do with the car. If purely street, go manifolds. They will be much quieter, give more clearance/room, and have a lot less hassles to deal with (plug wires burning, leaky flanges, etc.). Yes, you will lose a little horsepower but so what? There is a tradeoff. Not...

That price is about $150 higher than PST 1.03's! The sway-a-way bars are also on backorder according to their site.

The horns on my 72 Challenger are toast. I need a recommendation for replacement that is LOUD. I don't want to spend the money for reproduction OE style. Thanks guys.

Yes, that's why it's imperative that the shaft be installed properly. They *can* be installed wrong. I bought a 440 from a guy once and when I tore it down the shafts were installed wrong! Engine had squealing noise. Shafts & rockers were horribly galled.