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I looked up the bond process for my son a few weeks ago for Texas, we're near San Antonio. Your challenger is NOT worth 25-30k and that's easy to show. The bond for cars older than 25 years with questionable value usually ends up being the default $4000, the bond will likely be around $100...

That shaker is sitting oddly low.

Having grown up in MN, I can confirm we were drifting our cars before it was cool.... :)

Not suspension etc, rather I'm talking about inner structure areas etc. Rust on suspension parts is easy, reoccurring rust behind a quarter panel is terrifying. lol. I know some people use POR-15 in those areas as well but like everything else, there is always someone who will complain about...

I'm approaching the point in my project at which I'll need to get the bar metal sealed with epoxy and in researching various rust converters I ran across a couple of videos where ospho was applied in different ways and then sprayed with epoxy. Predictably the best results were when it was...

Small non-progress update. Turns out 1" threaded rod makes a really bad locator pin. Seems obvious now, but the threads catch the sheet metal as well as allow it to move ever so slightly. Solution was simple, 1" bolts with the heads cut off and we're back to awesome again. Next are the pull...

Holy crap, can't wait to see you work on this. It's worse than mine by a long shot.

No problem at all. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

@NxCoupe , thought my previous response seemed a bit terse. That's what happens when I post half asleep, lol. I tend to over engineer/complicate things that don't need it. I built it with the following guidelines. 1. Had be able to takt it apart to store. 2. Had to be rigid enough to move...

It's my own design.

You could always clone one.

Finally making some real progress. Removed most of the floor, and trunk, left the transmission tunnel to act as a brace between the firewall and cross member. Outer rockers, like most of the car are completely shot but I'm hopeful for the inner rockers.

Trying to get going again, had some things get in my way but they've passed now. I'm looking for the height of two points of the frame rails and can't seem to find them. 1. Leaf spring shackle mounting hole from center to datum line 2. Height of the front-most bumper bracket bolt hole Also...

On the upside it's something you can retrofit later quite honestly. Take your time and I'm sure you'll find some.

With respect to the top "frame", there is _no_ difference. The "brackets" mentioned are how the cylinders connect to the top frame. If you look though that other thread, it shows good pictures of the parts. They are the ones shown above. They have two holes in them, One for a "peg", the other...

Again, there is no difference between the power and manual top other than the presence of the appropriate bracket and the correct power rams/pump etc. The actual frame is the same.

Those are exactly what are on my 70 vert power top.

The correct one (#2) shows up from time to time. In a pinch a suitable replacement would be pretty easy to make. Here is a link to an old for sale add shows details https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/threads/original-challenger-cuda-convertible-power-top-cylinder-mounting-brackets.19522/

The frames are the same. You'll be missing a bracket on either side which bolts to the frame and acts as the attachment points for the lift rams. As others have said, you'll need the additional parts but the frame itself isn't the problem.

Thanks for the heads up @Cuda_mark , I was aware of the spare hold down, but not the seat belt holes. That's good to know. Is it possible the case where they are larger on a 71? I know the floor changed, but maybe the bolts are stronger on 71+ cars? Just spitballing an idea.