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I did the same thing. Bought a non AC double groove crank pulley and a non AC water pump pulley from 440 Source for my 383 RT. It worked perfectly for me as I was also able to achieve an acceptable alternator pulley ratio with the 440 Source non AC double groove pulley. You can always put the AC...

I’m not sure. I thought there were stops in place to limit maximum turn to lock even though the steering box could still turn more. Just not sure.

Not sure, but isn’t there built-in stops somewhere at full lock to prevent excess turn into the frame? I thought there was, but not really sure. Never looked, but remember reading something about that many years ago.

Once the ash tray is removed there are some screws on the top and bottom of the opening. You can sit in the passenger seat. Remove the screws and pull the frame out and the flasher is on the right side. Be careful how far out you remove it because the harness is connected to the flasher. When...

Non-polarity for turn signal flasher grounded on ash tray frame. Used the factory hazard flasher. Still worked albeit a slightly slower flash rate. I left it alone.

440source.com has Saginaw pulleys. https://store.440source.com/Power-Steering-Pulleys/products/83/

I have Crackedback’s relay harness and H4/H1 Tungsram +120 bulbs with Koito headlight housings. The lighting is very impressive.

I had a hot rear drum after a rebuild and it was the Chinese made drum was out of round. Turned them both which solved the problem.

I use one. My came with an adapter from 4 bolts to 2. I got mine from Dr Diff and it has a recessed grove to accept the rubber retainer on the brake pushrod. I used my factory drum brake pushrod with a new rubber retainer. There is a recessed area on the brake pushrod that accepts the rubber...

There’s a lock nut and screw on top of the box. Check the FSM for the adjustment procedure. I also needed to tighten the steering, but I found my problem to be the aftermarket steering coupler not fitting tight on the worm gear. I cleaned up my OEM coupler, installed new shoes and my problem...

The National 5121 seal is $2.39 and Timken is $2.44 at RockAuto.

I used this combination valve. The MC was from Dr. Diff. It was the aluminum 1.031 MC. It had the Mopar 1/2-20 and 9/16-20 ports. The pic was from Dr Diff’s website. He has both the combination valves and the MC. He is a great guy to deal with. He also has the 15/16” MC in the aluminum style...

My car was manual. Since the factory didn’t offer a manual disc brake car in ‘70, I used the factory system because it was engineered for disc brakes. Also stuck with all Mopar sourced parts because I lean towards the factory parts which work well together. The brake pedal is the same for all...

I have an AVS 4734S on my CA auto ‘70, but I have ECS and AC. N code motor.

I used all factory Mopar parts following the Disc-O-Tech article with a few exceptions for manual brakes. I used the combination valve used after 1-1-1970 with the metering valve. Rotors are 11.75” (need 15” wheels), Dr. Diff’s aluminum 1.031 master (not excessive pedal force), semi metallic...

I don’t know if this will be of any help. When I had my T/A spoiler installed as to physical position on the trunk, when looking down from the top about 1/4” of the trunk is visible. When looking straight from the rear of the car about 1/2” of the trunk is visible. Both the body shop and myself...

That was the look I wanted. For curiosity I measured from factory locations. I’m running 235/60-15 all around. No problem rubbing or hitting anywhere. My wheels are also 15x7. I set fender height first for the look then measured factory locations just to see what it was. It didn’t matter to me...

The FSM has a .140” spacer placed between the brake light switch and the brake pushrod. I used a popsicle stick and a washer glued to it for adjustment. Quick, easy and accurate so the brake lights don’t stay on with pedal release.

My fenders are 24.75” which is 15/16” by factory measurements. I have about 3/4” at the bump stops. I have a little grease on top of the bump stops to check if it ever hits the frame. Never does. Factory suspension.

RestoRick rebuilt my hinges. Came back looking like new. Excellent work. I’d recommend you check with him if a rebuild is on your mind.