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Thanks for the help guys.. Sooooo, anyone know if the off/high is full connection? I'll explain.. i have a 46rh overdrive transmission that i use a toggle switch to activate by breaking/ connecting ground, i would like to use the defog switch as a toggle switch.. I rigged up a toggle switch...

i recently upgraded to ralley dash with rear defogger panel. i would like to have a toggle switch (simply on/off) in the defogger location… is it possible to use the defogger switch as an on and off switch?? Sorry if dumb question, I’ve never seen the actual switch before.

https://moparplus.com/201-2-mopar-1972-74-e-body-rallye-dash-gauge-lens/

https://moparplus.com/202-2rset-mopar-1972-74-e-body-rallye-dash-bezel-kit-4-switch/

i just ordered a standard gauge cluster from Dakota today. I got thinking after that this would be a hood time to switch to ralley but I’m confused on what parts are needed.. light bar.. not necessary switch panel.. maybe (I’m getting different opinions) 4 gauge facia.. for sure heater...

Is there a difference in quality from one manufacturer to another? I see there’s a big price difference so I assume it’s with reason

Im wanting to cut my rad opening from a 22'' to a 26''. Curious if anyone here has done this how it was done. Thanks in advance

Roger. Will do. Thanks

I’m in need of the primary cable only. Anyone know where I can get a repo ? I can only find complete kits Thanks in advance

Anyone here use a lokar cable from the pedal to the main cables ? I already ordered the lokar cables to go to the rear but I’ve misplaced my factory one from the pedal. Curious if the “ball” on the end of cable is a direct fit into the pedal assembly.

Tried sending you a pm but your inbox is full. I’m looking for shaker bubble only ? Do you sell seperate or kits only

Plymouth67. I’m sure you’ve covered this but just in case I’ll tell you my solution. I fought with my car for 2 years with alignments, different tires, adjusting steering box and so on. I finally found a hairline crack in the k member where the lca pivot goes ( if that makes sense ?).

Thanks for the reply. I’m hopeing the Viking will improve over my qa1’s but that’s a lot of coin to throw away if there’s no improvement

I’m running qa1’s that are about 10 years old and 20,000 miles and curious if there’s better out there now. I see some Viking shocks now, just seeing if anyone has any comparisons?

I find that I’m doing more and more highway miles. This winter I want to focus on handling and ride and I’m curious of some opinions / advice. Here’s what I have: 74 barracuda, 6.4 hemi, 46 rh, 8 3/4 rear, xhd leafs, qa1 single adjustable, .96 torsions, firm feel stage 2, front and rear...

Moparleo- I got the grease from a buddy but I never even looked at it to be honest. I will check with him and find out. 413 - same storage as always, heated shop year around.

I have a set of cap upper arms, I’ve had them for over 10 years and 10,000 miles and lately the drivers side started squeaking. I tried spraying some lube with no luck so I pulled the bushings out and greased them. The squeak came back within 50 miles. Any suggestions? I don’t know why they just...

Ok, thanks for the reply. I’ll get some new bushings ( pst graphite impregnated) and some reinforcement plates. Is there any other parts I should get that commonly need replacing as far as the control arm goes ?

I think I found my problem. There’s a cracked weld where the lca attaches to the k member.

I’m struggling with my car “wandering” on dished pavement or even tar strips. I’ve got quality parts throughout ( ff steering box, tubular uppers, adjustable strut rods, ect ) the only part a haven’t touched are the lca’s. What’s the method to Checking for play? If I do end up replacing the...