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Yeah it looks like a shift linkage spring as Moparlee suggested. Spring 19-48-9

Good point on the mini-starter being more susceptible to heat. Smaller body therefore less material to act as a heatsink pulling heat away from the starter's electrical components. I hate it when physics works against you.. :)

You mentioned timing at 3000 RPM but not the base timing. That's what's going to matter during hot starts. As has already been mentioned, check the negative and positive battery cable connections. Voltage drop tests using a multimeter works best for this check. If that's all good, I'd want to...

Great picture. I work in CR and am familiar with the dealership. As I remember it, 1st Ave in CR used to be a lively cruise strip back in the day. Sure miss those summer nights. Cool cars, beer, and girls. Nice combination... Found this blurb online related to the picture. Just think, could...

Since the car ran OK in the past I think your best bet is to just disassemble the carb, clean it making sure that all the small passages are clean. Compressed air and shooting carb cleaner through them to make sure there aren't any obstructions works the best, at least that's been my experience...

Yep, trying to improve on that great Mopar steering of old. :) I'm in the middle of a restomod with it. Also the car came with manual brakes and rather than fight the low vacuum condition the engine will experience I decided to forgo that pain and get the hydra boost set up. To add to the fun...

I installed the Hydratech booster you linked to along with a new power steering pump, steering gear, and related goodies below from Bergman on my 74 Challenger. Both Jim at Hydratech and Peter Bergman were great to work with and responsive to any questions I had. The installation couldn't have...

The acc power input circuitry within the radio has some filtering built into it to attenuate the typical noise on a power line. The "noise" is sneaking into the radio through the keep alive power input as you have just discovered. So it's nice that the radio is quiet, but like you said you'll...

A filter might help a little but it won't fix the underlying problem with the alternator. The rectifier in the alternator consists of diodes which convert the alternating current (AC) the alternator is generating to the direct current (DC) the car's electrical system requires. When one of the...

The alternator probably has a bad rectifier. Either rebuild or replace the alternator.

Run the car with the alternator belt off and see what happens.

I know you've already bought the parts, but you might want to check this link out since there's a lot of useful information on it related to battery relocation and all things electrical for that matter. I've bought a lot of stuff from them and have always been happy with the quality of the parts...

Like Xcudame just said, along with the balancer either the torque converter or the flex plate needs to be weighted. Just make sure it's one or the other and you don't somehow end up with weights on both of them.

Usually when the tank isn't vented correctly the hard part is getting fuel into the tank. Weird that it would come out of a vent that's higher than the tank. The vent valve you're referring to is actually a roll over valve that's designed to vent the tank unless the car goes on it's top in which...

The exhaust bolt holes on the Edelbrock Performer heads are blind holes. They don't extend into the water jackets like on the factory heads.

I recently installed the small block version of this radiator in my 74 Challenger. I also bought the dual fan/shroud that fits directly to the radiator. The radiator is installed and up and running. Not a lot of hours on it yet but appears to be pretty well built. Northern Radiator | Muscle...

If it ever had air shocks on it back in the day check the rear shock mounts / bolts. Guys (ok, including me :cool:) would jack up the rear end of the car using the air shocks putting stress on those parts which were never designed to act as shackles. Noises will appear to be coming from the...

I think the TTI A body and E Body headers are one and the same. Katfish is talking about the headpipe that bolts to the stock ex manifold if I understood correctly.

"I called TTI about it they said I shouldn't have to cut or weld anything on a small block application.." That's not what their instructions say for 1-7/8" SMALL BLOCK HEADERS "Some models will require additional modification for clearance of the shifting lever.(See diagram)The support bracket...

"Liquid gold" Or gaseous gold depending upon which side of the expansion valve you're talking about :) Back when those cylinders were filled they could be purchased for around $25 bucks with the Freon billed out at around $1 a pound. Guess I should have stocked up...