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SOLD 1970 Dodge Challenger

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Jul 25, 2017
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1970 Dodge Challenger
Original 318 engine 100,200 (turned 100K on 11/13/2021)
Factory A/C, (not working)
Power steering Manual drum brakes
904 Automatic
7 ¼ rear
Dual exhaust (stock iron exhaust manifolds)

New parts installed since September 2021:

Coldcase 26” radiator (I have original small block 26” radiator, needs re-core)
New battery and factory correct positive battery cable.
Powermaster 75 amp alternator (upgraded to a 6 gauge wire from alternator to battery & fusible link) bypassed ammeter on dash.
Voltage regulator & starter relay
KYB shocks (front only)
235/60 15 Cooper Cobra tires (front)
15” x 7” Ansen slot mags (front)
255/60 15 Cooper Cobra tires (rear)
15” x 8” Ansen slot mags (rear)
Wiper bottle
Front & rear side markers lenses
Flip top gas cap (original cap was twist/turn cap)
Legendary front seat covers w/ new seat foam from Dynacorn
Rear package tray & insulation


Carpet is like new (new as in never installed but was sitting on shelf for years) not perfect (still has creases that need to be smoothed out), but much better than the original carpet that was ripped up. Needs headliner as the old one was torn and hanging. There is no build sheet under the seats that I could find. It has the fender tag as you can see.Lights in dash work, signals work, horn works, fuel gauge works. AM radio is missing.

The stock front and rear seats, carpet and headliner were extremely worn. Rear seats were replaced with another set of 70 Challenger bench seats but may have been recovered years ago, still in great shape. The original pattern was the vinyl and cloth, salt & pepper pattern. Knowing the long back order and current cost of new seat covers from Legendary, I found these houndstooth pattern covers on ebay last month. I was OK with mismatched front and rear covers as it kept the cost low.


Body panels are really straight and solid. Passenger front fender has dent over the wheel well area but is not that bad. Grille is in really good condition, no cracks. Bumpers are straight but need re-chrome.

Under rear window rust but no large holes, not excessive but will need to be addressed if you leave it outside uncovered. Again, ask for pictures if needed.

Driver side door bottom- rusted through to inside. Opinions vary, but to get a whole new door wouldn’t be necessary. Patch panel or door skin may be a better option.

Trunk: Previous owner applied some latex paint and what looks like a fiber cloth on the top of the trunk floor to keep it from rusting out. It’s not rotted thru, just small holes. A new trunk pan may be in order.

Cowl/firewall area under wiper motor- Most likely due to buildup of leaves over the years. The rest of the firewall itself is solid, only in this area.


* I have a new fuel tank and sending unit that will be installed very soon. When transporting the car down to car show and swap in Van Nuys, the strap hook poked a hole in it and it started to leak.

The car runs very well, it fires up after a pump on the gas pedal. Still has points distributor. Carburetor is a stock 2 bbl. that could use a rebuild at some point but still works fine. There is a slight bog on hard acceleration from a stop, but otherwise it accelerates and shifts great. The original owner kept some receipts of maintenance over the last 30 years and it wasn’t driven much at all the last 10 years. Looks to be a leak at rear main seal. When the car is driven regularly it hardly leaves a drop on the driveway.

The front suspension needs to be rebuilt as it pulls slightly to the right. The bushings are old and worn. I have another set of stock upper control arms with new bushings. Old air shocks are in the rear. Would be best to upgrade to factory or aftermarket disc brakes at some point.

Asking $27,000 OBO










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