340 problems

[swarthout]

Hello. I just finished a 13 year project and got my 73 challenger completed, I thought. I have a 340 that was completely rebuilt and I did my break in a few months ago and everything was a success; oil pressure, temp, etc. I took my manifolds off and installed Doug D453 headers. I was able to start it multiple times and it fired right up. I took it for a short drive (100 yards open headers) before having it towed to the exhaust shop for pipe/mufflers, again everything was fine. Started fine after the tow and onto the racks for the exhaust. After the exhaust was installed (2.5” pipe with Flowmaster 40’s) they informed me that when they backed my car off the racks they could hear a strange sound and it seemed to idle high. I elected to have it towed back home rather than drive it to the alignment shop and now I can’t even get it to start. When trying to turn it over all my belts and pulleys turn normally. I have fuel in the carb. My question is what would you check first? I feel pretty defeated so I appreciate any advice I can get. Thank you in advance.

 

[rallye340]

You have fuel in the carb and it turns over, I'd check for spark first.

Cheer up, probably just a minor setback.

 

[AUSTA]

Is it getting voltage to the coil when cranking.
Did they do any welding on the car without disconecting the battery

 

[Heywodja]

Beautiful car, sounds like a wire got disconnected laying on the headers and got burned... Try moving the gearshift to neutral and starting it, sometimes the neutral safety switch gets bumped and came loose. Other than thet ir is just basic trouble shooting, trace very wire to make sure they are properly secured and not burned.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The above info is good. To start. Think simple. Check to be sure the cap is good and the rotot is turning. To bypass all the wiring for the ignition hot wire it. Run power from the battery to the blue resistor wire on the ign 1 side not on the ICM side.
You can start the car with ing sw but it will keep running until you turn the key off and remove the jumper wire. BOTH! If it stays running and runs good,it's the wire or connectors. Low voltage through a bad connection or connections.
The brown coil wire supplies full voltage when starting to the coi.That just needs connected when starting. It might start with out it. If not connect while cranking only. This can all be done at the battery with temporary connections. Even if just touching to power.

And yes. Feed power the resistor blue wire and brown coil wire when starting. When it starts brake contact with brown coil wire.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Just seen what looks like a HEI distributor?

 

[swarthout]

You have fuel in the carb and it turns over, I'd check for spark first.

Cheer up, probably just a minor setback.

Appreciate that thank you. I’m doing all the diagnosing today.

 

[swarthout]

Is it getting voltage to the coil when cranking.
Did they do any welding on the car without disconecting the battery

I just started getting into it today. I confirmed they did not disconnect the battery when welding. I’ve hand cranked the engine over with the valve covers off. Everything is moving like it should and I have solid pressure on the number 1 plug hole. My distributor points to the #1 as well. I’m going to test my coil shortly.

 

[swarthout]

Just seen what looks like a HEI distributor?

Yes sir. It’s a PerTronix flame thrower ignitor III

 

[swarthout]

The above info is good. To start. Think simple. Check to be sure the cap is good and the rotot is turning. To bypass all the wiring for the ignition hot wire it. Run power from the battery to the blue resistor wire on the ign 1 side not on the ICM side.
You can start the car with ing sw but it will keep running until you turn the key off and remove the jumper wire. BOTH! If it stays running and runs good,it's the wire or connectors. Low voltage through a bad connection or connections.
The brown coil wire supplies full voltage when starting to the coi.That just needs connected when starting. It might start with out it. If not connect while cranking only. This can all be done at the battery with temporary connections. Even if just touching to power.

And yes. Feed power the resistor blue wire and brown coil wire when starting. When it starts brake contact with brown coil wire.

Thank you. I did hand crank to get back to 10 degrees before TDC and confirmed the rotor spins and ends up where it should.

 

[swarthout]

I appreciate the quick response from everyone. Here’s the what happened.

It fired right up after replacing the coil, and the voltage regulator. I could now hear the hiss sound they could hear. I removed the trans dust cover and discovered a piece was rubbing against the flex plate.Crisis averted. Thanks again!