4 speed cars with A/C

[ylocuda]

Thanks everyone. Based on all this info, I think best conclusion of what my (reproduction) tag should look like is the picture I produced from the decoder on E-bodies.org. The build date is within a day or two. The Y05 is most common but possibly could have been a Y14. Just went with most common. Let me know if it looks right to the pros on this site. Thanks again!

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Thanks everyone. Based on all this info, I think best conclusion of what my (reproduction) tag should look like is the picture I produced from the decoder on E-bodies.org. The build date is within a day or two. The Y05 is most common but possibly could have been a Y14. Just went with most common. Let me know if it looks right to the pros on this site. Thanks again!

View attachment 141627

FYI - The fender tag codes were intended to assist the assembly line workers with determining the standard and optional items that typically required some kind of body difference. Example: H51 A/C cars have an entirely different firewall or C16 Console cars have to have console brackets on the transmission tunnel.
This is why many of the codes which are present on the Window Sticker and the Broadcast Sheet are not on the fender tag.

The TX9 should be replaced with 000. The new plastic door panels had no "upper door frame color" so 000 was used on the fender tag.

If your car indeed came with A62 Rallye Instrument Cluster then it would also have the N85 Tachometer code on the fender tag.

Remove B41 Disc Brakes. I have never seen B41 on an original fender tag. Power Disc Brake cars are always B51 since there were no E-Bodies without Power Discs. Some may disagree and I hope they chime in with proof of B41 on a non-repro fender tag.

C55 Bucket Seats is missing. The H6X9 seats are buckets which forces this code on the fender tag.

J54 Sports Hood is missing. It is standard for a Cuda (BS).

Mouldings: See my graphic below and, yes, that is my Cuda.
Remove M26. M26 is not a fender tag code as this required no body modification to accommodate the installation of wheelwell mouldings.

M31 is missing. All Cudas (BS) except AARs have Upper Door Sill mouldings which are called M31 Body Belt Mouldings. Exception: Some early model year Cudas did not receive the M31 mouldings but this would have been remedied by the time your February-built Cuda was assembled.

M88 is missing. All Cudas have this rear tailpanel surround moulding.

As for those opposed to repro fender tags and who refer to them as “fake”, the telltale signs that make a repro fender tag obvious will remain.

I would not rush to get the tag made. Additional analysis is needed to get it as correct as possible under the circumstances. I will review it further as I can and make edits to this post while that remains possible (it times out eventually for editing). Others can chime in as fender tags have many quirky things and some changed depending on new availability during the model year. An example would be L34 Road Lamps on a Cuda are standard for 1970 but the L34 code does not appear on the fender tags until May of 1970 when Road Lamps were made optional for all Barracudas. The assembly line was then alerted to add the road lamp brackets and Road Lamps with wiring/switch, etc. when they saw the L34 on the fender tag.

 

[ylocuda]

So what you are saying is that B51 means it’s automatically power brakes? I kind of remembering seeing a disc brake car that did not have the booster. I will see if I can find it. Most likely you are correct. I am just trying to make the tag correctly reflect what it is was original like I have with the entire car restoration counting screws. Others are entitled to their opinions but will not change what I have been doing. I am a purist too. Not trying to fake anything, just trying to make it what is best deduced to be original. It’s a 383 4 speed. My guess is the real fakers are trying to change a car into something It’s not. I am far from doing that.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Per Se: One supersedes the other.

I have never seen B41 on an original fender tag.

When it comes to this Mopar Car Guy knows!

It will be on the window sticker.

And the broadcast sheet.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

I have edited my earlier post with some changes. A lot of details to consider for this task.

Do you have any indication that your Cuda may have had a V6X Tape Stripe (383 Hockeystick stripe) from the factory?
Other documentation would confirm it, e.g. a Window Sticker, Dealer Invoice, Broadcast Sheet, or old photos from around the time it was new.
Without one of those you have to decide whether you are putting it on the repro fender tag. A dilemma without an easy solution.

 

[ylocuda]

The car when I bought it did have the hockey stick stripes that looked all original. I used them to measure the new ones and the paint on the rear quarters was still single layer when we started sanding into them. The rear quarters had absolutely not a spec of rust and one of the best original parts on the car. I feel strongly that the hockey sticks were original and it was likely mistaken as the V4X as it now makes more sense. It probably should have been V6X I guess followed by V1X (second time being LA car). This car was driven alot and harshly.

 

[ylocuda]

Pictures showing 4speed tunnel with console brackets, they were there originally.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

So what you are saying is that B51 means it’s automatically power brakes? I kind of remembering seeing a disc brake car that did not have the booster. I will see if I can find it. Most likely you are correct. I am just trying to make the tag correctly reflect what it is was original like I have with the entire car restoration counting screws. Others are entitled to their opinions but will not change what I have been doing. I am a purist too. Not trying to fake anything, just trying to make it what is best deduced to be original. It’s a 383 4 speed. My guess is the real fakers are trying to change a car into something It’s not. I am far from doing that.

Yes, that is exactly what it means. Here is the price guide extract showing it. The assembly line workers had to know to install the proper power brake pedal linkage, combination valve, and the different backing plate for the power brake booster so the B51 was placed on the fender tag.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Based on your known original stripes on the car, I think it makes sense to include the V1X preceding the V6X on your repro fender tag.
The previous fender tags I posted were only those with H51 and a manual transmission.
I think this LA fender tag is somewhat closer to what you have but substitute the A04 Basic Group for the A01 Light Package (remove L31 Fender Turn Signals) and merge the items from the earlier post. You are getting closer to a "best case" repro tag at this point.
Note: The Y16 Sales Bank is not a likely code for your car. I would make a guess that your car was a Y14 Sold Car (ordered by a customer versus a dealer just putting another Cuda on the lot). Your unique and unusual A/C and 4-Speed was most likely a customer order and deposit. You can recreate a new fender tag graphic on the other forum's decoder from what has been discussed. We can review it again for accuracy before you seek an expensive repro fender tag.
Glad to help make your Cuda the best it can be.
Later EDIT: I added a second fender tag which is very close to your Cuda. Even the correct FY1 color. Drop A21, add G11, add J54, add V6X, add CTD and the 26 inch radiator and it is good except for the spillover to a second fender tag.
That pesky H51 A/C got you the G11 Tinted Windows and the 26" radiator (HD Cooling). Nice.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

I went ahead and input what we have so far. Here is the result.
You could use Y14 Sold Car or Y05 USA Specifications but the rest is likely as correct as can be determined. The CTD "Continued on 2nd Fender Tag" is costly but necessary with this many standard and optional items. The proper location for the Y code (either Y14 or Y05), the 26 and END on the second fender tag would bump to the right on the green fender tag below. Another review of continuation tags would further confirm the exact alignment and locations.
The decoder does not allow an adjustment for alignment of codes on a second fender tag. Also, it is unusual to see the second tag installed as shown on the green tag. A continuation tag is rare for any car.

EDIT: The 2nd tag layout has the option codes start at the 5th space over (2nd group of three location below). This ensures the overlapped tags do not have the 1st tag cover 2nd tag.

 

[Mr Cuda]

This tag was posted as part of this thread. I would call the production date as problematic along with the shaker and a/c.
LA in the late 124 xxx range are running C09, and 126xxx are C18.
What were the days off between C09 and C13?
I'm trying to hone in on my 1250xx production date

 

[MoparCarGuy]

This tag was posted as part of this thread. I would call the production date as problematic along with the shaker and a/c.
LA in the late 124 xxx range are running C09, and 126xxx are C18.
What were the days off between C09 and C13?
I'm trying to hone in on my 1250xx production date

View attachment 141668

That tag was posted but was noted as a reproduction tag with the errors you noted. It was only posted to show a possible H51 A/C and D21 4-Speed combination on an LA Assembly Plant car. No way to tell what is truly accurate on this tag though.
Another glaring error is the V6W Tape Stripe when no White Hockeystick stripes were produced, only Black. Plymouth missed the boat on that one as white hockeystick stripes would have been cool. They fixed that issue in 1971 with white billboards.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

This tag was posted as part of this thread. I would call the production date as problematic along with the shaker and a/c.
LA in the late 124 xxx range are running C09, and 126xxx are C18.
What were the days off between C09 and C13?
I'm trying to hone in on my 1250xx production date

The 1969 calendar.
I have four LA plant fender tags with 1250XX and all of them are C10 (Wednesday, December 10, 1969).

 

[ylocuda]

MoparCarGuy, again, thanks for the large education. Its all very interesting and shows just how screwed up my tag was. Its very apparent someone after the accident and loss of original tag just had one reproduced as best as they could based in the actual options but still made a lot of mistakes. As far as A62 option goes, the car when I bought it came with rallye gauges but I had to restore most of them. The wiring was all there and everything was very original looking. I think thats enough to prove that they were factory installed? Is there a definitive way? I also always for some reason thought A04 option included the rallye gauges not sure why. Maybe that was Challenger? I happen to have the gauges pulled out because I dropped the column down the stud broke off. Taking gauges out gives you access to top of welded stud top side. I have been working on installing the R11 radio. Have an original one and an original dash speaker. Single plug is there and wiring colors match diagram perfectly. I think I now believe more this is a Y14 car. I thought I saw a tag with both Y05 and Y14? Still need to iron out a couple of things before we finalize “best” stab at the original tag.

 

[Challenger RTA]

R11 radio. Have an original one and an original dash speaker. Single plug is there and wiring colors match diagram

 

[ylocuda]

I never saw anything to do with a fader knob or any wiring to a back speaker. I have the A04 code which lists a radio (not specific). Seems R11 fits my situation. Can it simply be wired to one dash speaker? See picture and this is plug I have to plug in for radio power. Nothing else but that plug. Its only found under Rallye dash config, so maybe this supports my car definitely having a rallye dash? Also no A01 code. Car has no wiring at all for additional lighting other than orange wire power feed provisions.

 

[Challenger RTA]

That is an in general diagram for a one speaker radio. Ignore the back. The plug for the back might not be the if not equipped. Green and black wire is what you need to look for.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Look at the back of the radio plug. The black and green are the speaker wires, red power and orange illumination.

 

[ylocuda]

Thanks for the breakdowns. The AM radio I have (correct for 70 e-body) does not have wires combined into one speaker plug and has separate positive and negative leads (see two leads on left side of picture) that are pretty long and look like the ones shown in the routing diagram you sent that plug directly to the speaker. I am going to install radio and try it later this week (see if the leads reach speaker).

 

[Challenger RTA]

As far as your cluster, fuse box and harness. There are part numbers on them. Or a forge clock on the castings. But I don't know if there is any date coding on them. Someone here might know better.