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Fuel vapor line/charcoal canister

Dchase3

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I have a 1973 cuda. Previous owner removed charcoal canister, the fuel vapor line is just open in the engine compartment. Should I find a charcoal canister and put In or just cap it ? Getting some fumes right now and I’d like to minimize that
 
I have a 1973 cuda. Previous owner removed charcoal canister, the fuel vapor line is just open in the engine compartment. Should I find a charcoal canister and put In or just cap it ? Getting some fumes right now and I’d like to minimize that
Personally I would not mess with the canister. I would either install a fuel filter with a return line (preferred) or use a pressure regulator with a bypass port. I would disconnect the vapor return line at the tank and get some compressed air and blow that line out. No telling how many little varmits or other debris might have be in there. After doing that be sure the other end of the fuel vapor line by the tank has a new piece of rubber to make the connection. Then just connect the return line on the fuel filter to the open vapor return line.
 
Sorry I’m not following. Everything in this image I have in place except the charcoal canister. Where would you put the fuel filter ?

Even if I hook up a charcoal canister the Edelbrock carb that I have doesn’t have a place for the hose coming from the canister to hook to.

IMG_4849.png
 
Sorry I’m not following. Everything in this image I have in place except the charcoal canister. Where would you put the fuel filter ?

Even if I hook up a charcoal canister the Edelbrock carb that I have doesn’t have a place for the hose coming from the canister to hook to.
If you want to keep the system 100% original then you'll need to replace the canister. If originality is not important to you then I would remove the vent lines going to the carb and plug them. Get a fuel filter to replace the one you currently have (that just has an in and out nipple) with the return line and attach a hose from it to the vapor return line going to the tank.
 
From the original post it sounds like fumes are the issue not vapor lock.
If that is the case and you have all the other parts of the system get a charcoal canister and hook it up following the standard schematic and it should be fine.
 
If you want to keep the system 100% original then you'll need to replace the canister. If originality is not important to you then I would remove the vent lines going to the carb and plug them. Get a fuel filter to replace the one you currently have (that just has an in and out nipple) with the return line and attach a hose from it to the vapor return line going to the tank.
Ok. I follow now. What would Happen if excess fuel goes back through that vapor line to the separator by the tank ?
 
It would run back in the tank. From what I think I understand. The vapor separator works like as condenser. Vapor would collect there and condense and go back to the tank. And or the vapor would be pulled to the carb and be burned. Someone might elaborate or correct.
 
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From the original post it sounds like fumes are the issue not vapor lock.
If that is the case and you have all the other parts of the system get a charcoal canister and hook it up following the standard schematic and it should be fine.
If I got a charcoal canister there isn’t a spot on the aftermarket carb for it to connect to
 
You can connect it in to the PCV system or even directly to the manifold.
I would not connect to the brake booster but a multi hose nipple etc can be used.
The system is only designed (when standard) to deal with gasoline fumes - not raw liquid fuel.
The correct year factory service manual will give a good explanation about how it all works.
 
You can connect it in to the PCV system or even directly to the manifold.
I would not connect to the brake booster but a multi hose nipple etc can be used.
The system is only designed (when standard) to deal with gasoline fumes - not raw liquid fuel.
The correct year factory service manual will give a good explanation about how it all works.
Are you referring to the manifold port next to the PCV port on the carb ?
 
Can you post a pic of what manifold you have and carburettor type.
Show the connection you mean. I don't want to give you the wrong info.
I am going out soon for several hours and will reply later today.
 
The fuel tank vent line you refer to may be plugged, if that suits you. Another option is connecting it directly to the vacuum carburetor inlet.

If your goal is put stuff back to original look and function, seek a replacement cannister, and connect it back to the vent line and connect the cannister back to the vacuum port(s) at the carburetor throttle plate inlet. As shown by your image in post #3.

The cannister's purpose is to accumulate fuel vapor while the car is not running. A prime example is while sitting in a parking lot, and as the day heats up, the temperature within the fuel tank rises slightly generating fuel vapors that would otherwise be vented to atmosphere. The canister accumulates these vapors until the car is again started, when the vacuum port at the carburetor sucks them into the engine to be burned.

The cannister has a limited capacity, so were the car sitting in the hot sun all day, or parked for several days, at some point, the vapor backs up through the carburetor and escapes to atmosphere and may be detected by the odor. The purpose of the charcoal is simply to minimize odor, with little benefit to the environment.

Without the holding capacity of the cannister, connecting the vent line directly to the carburetor may still result in fuel odor, but at least while the engine is running, you (and the environment) will enjoy the added benefit of those vapors getting burned.

As for the return line, this was present from the factory only on 426 Hemi and 440 HP cars. The line routes from an extra fitting on the fuel pickup, and exits low on the passenger side of the engine down at the frame rail. It then connects to a tiny cannister (vapor separator) on the output side of the fuel pump. The return line is only necessary for issues with vapor lock, and it's not the only way to resolve the issue. But this was the factory option to do so on those high performing cars that may run hot under street racing conditions.
 
The fuel tank vent line you refer to may be plugged, if that suits you. Another option is connecting it directly to the vacuum carburetor inlet.

If your goal is put stuff back to original look and function, seek a replacement cannister, and connect it back to the vent line and connect the cannister back to the vacuum port(s) at the carburetor throttle plate inlet. As shown by your image in post #3.

The cannister's purpose is to accumulate fuel vapor while the car is not running. A prime example is while sitting in a parking lot, and as the day heats up, the temperature within the fuel tank rises slightly generating fuel vapors that would otherwise be vented to atmosphere. The canister accumulates these vapors until the car is again started, when the vacuum port at the carburetor sucks them into the engine to be burned.

The cannister has a limited capacity, so were the car sitting in the hot sun all day, or parked for several days, at some point, the vapor backs up through the carburetor and escapes to atmosphere and may be detected by the odor. The purpose of the charcoal is simply to minimize odor, with little benefit to the environment.

Without the holding capacity of the cannister, connecting the vent line directly to the carburetor may still result in fuel odor, but at least while the engine is running, you (and the environment) will enjoy the added benefit of those vapors getting burned.

As for the return line, this was present from the factory only on 426 Hemi and 440 HP cars. The line routes from an extra fitting on the fuel pickup, and exits low on the passenger side of the engine down at the frame rail. It then connects to a tiny cannister (vapor separator) on the output side of the fuel pump. The return line is only necessary for issues with vapor lock, and it's not the only way to resolve the issue. But this was the factory option to do so on those high performing cars that may run hot under street racing conditions.
I’ll post pictures later, my carb (edelbrock Avs2) has a ported vacuum and manifold port(I think the manifold one is vacuum all the time while running ?) distributors vacuum advance is hooked up to the other port. Can I connect it to that manifold port ? Would this be better than capping it ? I do have a vented gas cap. Not worried about being original. I’d rather not have that unsightly canister in the engine compartment
 
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