Lime green 72 Challenger

[WhiskeyRebel]

Hi all,
Im restoring a 68 RR that is going to be a few years so I was looking for a driver quality car I could drive now. I picked up this 72 Challenger that was started by someone else and needs finishing.

It needs a bit of work to be street legal and reliable but is a running car with a 383 and 4 speed.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

I think Gracie likes it:

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

So far I have swapped a new carb on as the old one was shot, adjusted the slipping clutch, fixed the dragging brakes by adjusting the booster push rod, replaced the front buckets with a nice set I had from the RR, wheels tires, stripes, seatbelts, and I am working through electrical issues. Most seem to be grounding problems. The guy that had it did a great job with the sheet metal and it is spotless underneath, although not always Mopar correct but sufficient for me and it’s purpose (a fun driver). Everything was painted new which I think is the source of the poor grounds.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

These were in my RR and I want to put that back to the correct bench seat, perfect for the Challenger:

And here they are installed:

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Just playing around with some wheel options. These dont fit but I like it better than the small black steelies.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Here's where it is today with new tires and wheels and stripes added. The wheels are Ridler 650, 17x8, 5x114.3 and 0 offset. Tires are General G-max AS-05 245/50R17. Drivers front rubbed a little at full lock but I "massaged" the inner fender lip a little and added a few turns to my torsion bar and it is good now with no rubbing.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

So I have half the car torn apart trying to find a clunking noise when I go over bumps that has been driving me crazy. I think I have found it. Here are some pics of the rear upper shock mount. Does this look right?

It looks to me like the previous owner reinforced the original mounts but then the shocks didnt fit so he added the extensions. Im fairly certain those are loose and clunking against the crossmember over bumps. Any suggestions how to fix this? I thought about welding the extensions in place to keep them from moving but I dont think he left enough room to get the bolt out if I ever needed to change the shocks. I guess I could rip it all out and put a new crossmember in but not really looking forward to that. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Im going to pull these out and see if I can get them to fit by cutting down that sleeve for the bolt. Not sure that is the issue. Someone went to a lot of trouble when that seems like a pretty simple solution. I'll update when I get these out.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Finally got some time on the car tonight and here is what I found. What the...

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Wracking my brain on how to fix this other than replacing the crossmember. The shock wont fit in as is and the angle is wrong too.

Here is what I came up with for now:

I cut the sleeve off the shock and put a small bend in it so the angle was correct.

This should work for now until I get motivated to fix it the right way. I have a Fitech fuel injection throttle body and a tanks inc tank to put in some day. Maybe when I pull the tank Ill fix this.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

On to the next project. The previous owner strongly suggested I shiuld change the radiator from the 2 core to a 3 core as it ran hot. It never overheated on the short drives I have been on but my guages also dont work so no idea how hot it was getting. Plus it had the outlets on the wrong side and had this contraption to remedy that:

I picked up a 3 core with the outlets on the correct sides. But here is what I found on the waterpump housing:

The back side of the thermostat housing is really thin. Is this normal? It almost looks like someone cut it down for some reason. Anyone know why someone would do this? It looks like there are some homemade spacers between the block and wp housing. Not sure why. Im thinking I should replace this. Any suggestions on a good housing? I see a few on Summit.

 

[moparlee]

Not normal at all and it is going to leak for sure. Throw the housing and the spacers in the scrap pile. It looks like the entire back side of the housing has been machined as there is a nut spacer on the power steering pump bracket too. Replace the water pump while you at it. If you want to lose some weight, go with an aluminum housing and pump.
Looks like the previous owner was a real hacker.

 

[340challconvert]

This may help; Mancini aluminum housing.

$106.95

Mancini Racing Aluminum Water Pump

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Thanks. Yeah there may have been some budget minded mechanics in this car's past

Interestingly I found those spacers on the Mancini website.
INDY Water Pump Housing Spacers
Says they need to be used with part #440-22 but I cant find what that is. Did someone shave that housing down to save weight?

 

[Stephen Hotz]

Probably came of an engine with a mid plate.

 

[WhiskeyRebel]

Probably came of an engine with a mid plate.

Ahh, this makes sense, thanks.
So I am going to order an aluminum housing, pump, install kit (bolts, gaskets), thermostat and new nipples from Mancini. Can you guys school me on which nipples to get? You can see in the photos the home brew elbow/reducer that is on the original. The heater hoses are different sizes, one looks about 1/2 and one looks like 3/4ish. Do these look right?

I'm having a hard time finding the correct ones.
Also, do you guys recommend the Milodon high flow 180deg thermo? More money but I have seen that recommended elsewhere.

Thanks again for all the help and the education.

 

[moparlee]

Ahh, this makes sense, thanks.
So I am going to order an aluminum housing, pump, install kit (bolts, gaskets), thermostat and new nipples from Mancini. Can you guys school me on which nipples to get? You can see in the photos the home brew elbow/reducer that is on the original. The heater hoses are different sizes, one looks about 1/2 and one looks like 3/4ish. Do these look right?
View attachment 63768
I'm having a hard time finding the correct ones.
Also, do you guys recommend the Milodon high flow 180deg thermo? More money but I have seen that recommended elsewhere.

Thanks again for all the help and the education.

Check these out. They have the correct ridges. I have purchased small items from Rob before and he seems like a good guy.
70-78 Mopar A B C Body 426 Hemi 383 440 Heater Hose Nipples | eBay
Yes, use a 180* thermostat. I have used the Stant "Super Stat" one with good results.