Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Pick your poison. He picked them all. I think he did a good job of testing the products fairly. This is a question that needs it's own thread.
Last edited:
Pick your poison. He picked them all.
- Thread starter Challenger RTA
- Start date
don selleck
Well-Known Member
Pretty interesting, I went to the mastercoat website to see what the costs are, they seem to make batches of the stuff and they sell out within a few hours due to this video, the power of the modern media amazing.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Came across this a while back.
Rust converter
If you use a rust converter use Enrust you must allow it to cure for twenty four hours and then coat it with a good primer and top coat. If you don't do that it won't work well. and no coating is perfect. In my applications -marine preservation of metal hulls a good paint job will last 3 (if done in a so-so fashion) to 9 months or so (if done nearly perfectly) and nothing will protect you from chipping or impact.. The acid based products are really only useful for eliminating running rust especially on painted surfaces. I hasten to add that no coating is designed to be bent.
A rust converter made by Rust Check. It's a phosphoric acid formula with the consistency of water that can be brushed or sprayed. It does convert iron oxide (rust) to ferric phosphate. Once converted the actual ferric phosphate does not rust...it's chemically impossible. Re-rusting occurs when the product fails to convert all the rust and rust is left behind. Re-rusting also occurs when barriers are breached allowing moisture and oxygen to reach the virgin metal under the ferric phosphate, so it's the virgin metal rusting this time. When a rust converter is applied to rust, the converter must remain wet for a period of time to allow the formula to soak into the rust all the way to the bare virgin metal. Applying a rust converter just as a film on top of rust has little or no value. Start by removing as much visible rust as humanly possible or reasonable by grinding, wire wheels, sanding or your preferred method. Apply the first coat of rust converter as an indicator tool. When it converts and turns the remaining rust black and it's now more visible, now it's time to sand, grind and remove as much of the black converted ferric phosphate as possible. For auto body panel repair, use a Dremel tool with a precision grinding bit to attack as many remaining black specs that you can, like the dentist does a root canal with his drills. Now you should have shinny metal with very minor black specks remaining. Now apply 2 coats of rust converter, again keeping it wet to penetrate into the pits of the metal. Allow the final coat of rust converter to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying a quality rust inhibiting alkyd paint with 2 coats. It's tedious work and you may need to be OCD to endure it. I have autobody and frame repairs/conversions that are in excess of 12 years old, with no signs of failure. Auto rust IS automotive cancer and must be treated the same way. Surgically cut out everything possible and treat what you may have missed with chemotherapy. Phosphoric acid.
Rust converter
If you use a rust converter use Enrust you must allow it to cure for twenty four hours and then coat it with a good primer and top coat. If you don't do that it won't work well. and no coating is perfect. In my applications -marine preservation of metal hulls a good paint job will last 3 (if done in a so-so fashion) to 9 months or so (if done nearly perfectly) and nothing will protect you from chipping or impact.. The acid based products are really only useful for eliminating running rust especially on painted surfaces. I hasten to add that no coating is designed to be bent.
A rust converter made by Rust Check. It's a phosphoric acid formula with the consistency of water that can be brushed or sprayed. It does convert iron oxide (rust) to ferric phosphate. Once converted the actual ferric phosphate does not rust...it's chemically impossible. Re-rusting occurs when the product fails to convert all the rust and rust is left behind. Re-rusting also occurs when barriers are breached allowing moisture and oxygen to reach the virgin metal under the ferric phosphate, so it's the virgin metal rusting this time. When a rust converter is applied to rust, the converter must remain wet for a period of time to allow the formula to soak into the rust all the way to the bare virgin metal. Applying a rust converter just as a film on top of rust has little or no value. Start by removing as much visible rust as humanly possible or reasonable by grinding, wire wheels, sanding or your preferred method. Apply the first coat of rust converter as an indicator tool. When it converts and turns the remaining rust black and it's now more visible, now it's time to sand, grind and remove as much of the black converted ferric phosphate as possible. For auto body panel repair, use a Dremel tool with a precision grinding bit to attack as many remaining black specs that you can, like the dentist does a root canal with his drills. Now you should have shinny metal with very minor black specks remaining. Now apply 2 coats of rust converter, again keeping it wet to penetrate into the pits of the metal. Allow the final coat of rust converter to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying a quality rust inhibiting alkyd paint with 2 coats. It's tedious work and you may need to be OCD to endure it. I have autobody and frame repairs/conversions that are in excess of 12 years old, with no signs of failure. Auto rust IS automotive cancer and must be treated the same way. Surgically cut out everything possible and treat what you may have missed with chemotherapy. Phosphoric acid.
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