Strange 1972 Cuda
- Thread starter EMCD
- Start date
burntorange70
Moderator
Column shifter was standard. Floor shifter was an option.
ramenth
Well-Known Member
Just need the parts for it. The shifter, the console, the column, etc.
I'd be curious as to the numbers, though. Burnt's right, the column shifter was standard, but unusual. Go to bigger car shows like Carlisle, the Nats, etc, and I guarantee you'll see more console shifted cars. Seems like with the E-bodies it was a "must have" option, rather it was customer or dealer ordered. Kiinda like bench seat E-bodies. They were made, but highly unusual.
I'd be curious as to the numbers, though. Burnt's right, the column shifter was standard, but unusual. Go to bigger car shows like Carlisle, the Nats, etc, and I guarantee you'll see more console shifted cars. Seems like with the E-bodies it was a "must have" option, rather it was customer or dealer ordered. Kiinda like bench seat E-bodies. They were made, but highly unusual.
burntorange70
Moderator
As far as # go I could not find a brake down in my book as to how many were floor and how many were column. Just auto and manual. Maybe some one will chime in who has that brake down. Why don't you see them? Well could be they did not make many or could also be people changing them out to a floor shifter. Like Slant E bodies. They made them but you just don't see them do to being swapped for a V8.
Is this an H code car? Would think it would be worth more if restored to factory but I don't think it would hurt the value much being that floor shifters are more desirable. Plus you could always keep the stock column parts and change it back if you wanted.
Is this an H code car? Would think it would be worth more if restored to factory but I don't think it would hurt the value much being that floor shifters are more desirable. Plus you could always keep the stock column parts and change it back if you wanted.
I wouldn't say that it adds any value. Especially on a 72. I do think it is a nice conversation piece. You'll get more people looking at it if you keep it origonal. It just becomes another 72 Cuda if you change it. If it were me I'd keep it the way it is...but it's your car.
If you're not going the stock route with the car then it doesn't really matter anyway. IMO
If you're not going the stock route with the car then it doesn't really matter anyway. IMO
cool, thanks for the insight. I'd like to get some more power out of the 340 w/o spending a ton of $. I have some body work in the rear qtr panels and my paint is fried, but the whole car isn't that beat up. any suggestions on the power? How about getting a car running after 8 years of sitting?
burntorange70
Moderator
Could do the old. Carb,intake,cam,headers,exhaust.
If you wanted to get more you would need to raise the CR. Getting in to the high cost area on that though.
You got some good advise on the other thread about the sitting thing. How did the tank and line boil go?
If you wanted to get more you would need to raise the CR. Getting in to the high cost area on that though.
You got some good advise on the other thread about the sitting thing. How did the tank and line boil go?
ramenth
Well-Known Member
I agree, burdar. Maybe it's just me, but cars with "different" features always catch my eye. Slant six E-bodies, more door big block B-bodies, hot rod flathead Fords in a sea of SBC's, etc. Again, maybe it's just me.
Burnt's got it right, though. Without an actual breakdown in the numbers we don't know if this is a small percentage of numbers produced vs. a swap during the restification as to why we see so many console cars as apposed to columns.
As stated, EMCD, it's your car. Build it the way you want it. That's what's important.
ramenth
Well-Known Member
ramenth
Well-Known Member
Tell us more about your plans and maybe we can give you a better idea as to what to expect. For instance, you said you wanted more horsepower. Got an idea on what you'd like to do? Mild over stock? Wild? Some of the mods can be done combined with some of the fluids.
I have two young kids, so $ is tight. For the next 5 years I'll keep it stock and would only consider inexpensive mods; carb, intake, headers, etc. My only concern is by modifiying it, (drop in a 440) I'll ruin the value of the car.
ramenth
Well-Known Member
Okay, so for now you're looking just to get it drivable with the mods later...
Can I suggest going the cheapest route in this? Get a Factory Service Manual and read up on it.
Buy the parts and things you'll need to do it yourself. You can save a ton of money by not having to pay shop service rates. Any questions, well, hey, that's what we're here for.
It would require an investment of a few things on your part, besides the tools, but the investments aren't that expensive. A jack, jack stands, drain pans, a cheap Prestone flush kit for the heater hoses, etc. Plus parts and fluids.
Other than that I can advise you on what to expect in hours on an estimate (I own my own shop) but labor rates will vary and so will the price of parts, depending on the local shop's mark-up. As far as that goes, though, see what you can do to nail the shop down on a written estimate for: tune-up, oil change, coolant and t-stat, trans service (done right, it's been sitting for this long) and carb rebuild. If he's not willing to give you a complete break down on what's needed, I'd walk away.
By the way, what's all included in the estimate so far?
jeryst
Well-Known Member
If you dont know anything about these cars, you will quickly get in over your head having someone else do the work. $300 to "get it running" without even knowing what is wrong with it, is a ripoff.
As suggested, get a good manual for your car. Then ask advice here (or wherever) on what steps you should take. You will have to buy the parts anyway, so do that as you go, and you will not need to fork out a lot of money. If you take it to a garage, and he just starts replacing things, your $300 could quickly double or triple. Then you wouldnt be able to get your car back without paying the huge bill.
A car needs two things to run, fuel and spark. Of course, I am over simplifying things, but those are the basics.
As suggested, get a good manual for your car. Then ask advice here (or wherever) on what steps you should take. You will have to buy the parts anyway, so do that as you go, and you will not need to fork out a lot of money. If you take it to a garage, and he just starts replacing things, your $300 could quickly double or triple. Then you wouldnt be able to get your car back without paying the huge bill.
A car needs two things to run, fuel and spark. Of course, I am over simplifying things, but those are the basics.
well, i changed the oil and put in new gas and a filter and the the car would only start when i poured a small amount of gas into the carb. i'm thinking that the gas lines are clogged given that the new sag filter wasn't even completely filled with gas. I'm going to try a gas line to a small 2 gal gas can to see if the motor will pull from it. if that's the issue, should i just get new steel gas lines? or, try to clean the old ones?
ramenth
Well-Known Member
Could be a bad pump, too. Do what you're going to do with the gas can (I've fired off a few cars this way). If it doesn't pull fresh gas out of the can you've eliminated the lines this way and checked the pump at the same time.
If you need new lines get a roll of steel and bend 'em yourself. Trying to clean the old ones can be a waste of time. 25' of 5/16" can be had at most parts stores for around $20.00. Get yourself a flare tool and go to work.
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