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Vapor Lock or Bust

Merrill Davis

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BACK TO VAPOR LOCKS

So let’s circle back to the vapor lock issue. Vapor lock is closely related to the volatility of gasoline—that is, the gasoline’s tendency to vaporize under a given set of conditions. The unit of measurement for volatility is known as “Reid Vapor Pressure” or RVP—vapor pressure of gasoline at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It is actually measured by placing a specific quantity of gas in a sealed ‘bomb,” shaking it and reading the attached pressure gauge.

Normal atmospheric vapor pressure (the pressure of air above our heads) is about 14.7 lbs/sq/in. Any liquid that has a vapor pressure greater than the atmospheric pressure (remember, this is typically 14.7) will boil. The higher the RVP rating, the greater the tendency of fuel to vaporize (and vapor lock).

Fuels sold in the winter are blended to have a higher RVP than those in the summer to aid in starting. By increasing the RVP, they lower the boiling point and increase its volatility so it takes less to turn it into vapor and hence start in the cold. In the summer, the warm temperatures are already assisting in the vaporization process so the gas itself doesn’t need to be as volatile.

Winter: High RVP = Lower Boiling Point = Faster Vaporization
Summer: Low RVP = Higher Boiling Point = Slower Vaporization

Raising the winter RVP is usually done with the addition of butane that is very volatile (high RVP) and inexpensive. The highest RVP gasoline commonly sold will have an RVP of around 15.0psi (measured at 100 degrees F). If that gas were in your tank on a hot summer day when the temperature reaches 100 degrees, it will boil in the tank. On a 70 degree day, the heat in the engine compartment will reach well over 100 degrees, especially in a parade or at rest.

Vapor lock often occurs when you first stop and shut off the engine as the temperature in the engine compartment will dramatically rise with no airflow. If the gas in that truck has an RVP of 15 and the atmospheric pressure is 14.7 you will have the gas boil in the engine compartment (carburetor) and enjoy what you commonly know as “vapor lock.”

The RVP standards do vary throughout the country as the RVP in Duluth, Minnesota, needs to be significantly higher in winter than that in Jacksonville, Florida. If you live in a northern climate you probably experience the full range of RVP rated gas through the course of the year. This is very important to note.

Remember that I had vapor lock at the Memorial Day parade even though I thought I had the problem licked? My inspection on this truck was due in early spring, so while it was out, I filled up the gas tank.

I live in a relatively rural area, so the gas station probably gets filled every couple weeks. Depending on the volume of business a gas station does, I could have easily filled the truck with Class D fuel with a boiling point of just 131 degrees. Do you think the engine compartment could reach 131 degrees on an 87 degree day moving along at parade speed of about 3 mph? You bet! Add to this, ethanol raises the RVP by an additional 1 psi (from 13.5 to 14.5). There is no question boiling can occur. In general, it can be said that ethanol will increase the likelihood of vapor lock by 10% just because it raises the RVP so much.

It was the perfect storm of low boiling points and hot engines. Like taking the cap off of a very hot radiator, and having it violently boil and steam, boiling is most likely going to occur where there is a sudden drop in pressure. This can happen just prior to the fuel pump or as the fuel enters the carburetor bowl.

At one of these points, the slight pressure created by the fuel pump within the fuel line will drop to zero, immediately lowering the boiling point. As the fuel boils, it turns to a frothing combination of boiling gas and vapor. This vaporish, boiling brew will not flow and is highly resistant to pumping, so normal flow will cease until it cools back to just liquid.

These issues are pretty much restricted to carbureted engines. Newer engines with fuel injectors are generally not susceptible to vapor lock.
 

Merrill Davis

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Copy and paste this one and all so far. Thanks. I live in a rural area too. I will try 87 instead of 93 but I am not confident in it. The ideas will be followed until the problem is managed or eliminated.
 

Merrill Davis

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In stop & go traffic it still helps if you are running a constant belt driven fan on the engine. It is the air coming off the back of the fan that blows across the engine that hits the cloths pin and deflects around causing a low air pressure around the pin and line area, thus cooling. It is an old trick that was used over the years to help cool the gas before it entered the carb. I would not use this as a fix. Just get the steel line so its not touching the hot metal engine block or heads and get the inline gas filter into the fan air flow in front of the carb. As far as engine temp rising after hot shut down, it does get much hotter by 20-30 degress for about 5-20 minutes after turning the engine off due to no coolant flow, totally normal for all engines. It will also boil the gas and cause the gas to expand and push out of the float bowls and into the throttle bores of the carb into the intake manifold runners and into the cylinders. Thus you have a badly flooded engine on hot restart. The grade of gas has nothing to do with it. Yes, R & RB engines have dry intakes and do not have quite the heat generated in the carb area on hot shut down. Also aluminum intakes do transfer heat to surounding metal components like carbs and heads much more then a cast iron intake manifold. Try touching an aluminum shifter knob that has been setting in the sun on a hot day, it will burn your hand to touch, heat transfers to your hand much faster then a plastic or steel knob.
 

Merrill Davis

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I insulated the metal gas line with a sleeve and thus far, it appears to be much better. On the warm side, I do not touch the gas pedal until it starts. I stopped four times yesterday and cut the engine off. Each time it started with no issue! We have several gas stations with no ethanol in Goldsboro and I plan to use that for awhile and to see if it makes any difference in terms of restarting.
 

Steve340

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I think the info Matt dug up on E10 is important and something I did not think about.
I do not run the stuff in my engines and warn off anyone I can.
A Holley jet size will be calibrated for gasoline.
Years ago I did work on a alcohol burning Triumph drag bike engine - the jet holes were huge to get enough fuel through them to stop it running lean.
My point here is E10 will probably throw the calibration of a Holley way off.
Use gasoline and a reputable octane booster if you need it.
Glad to hear it appears you solved your problem. Steve
 
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