Heater Core Valve Pic Request

[Kansan]

Picture request. When I purchased my 73 340 Cuda automatic, the heater core had been bypassed and the heater core valve was a box of spare parts. The part looks new but I have no idea how to install/hook up without a service manual. Is anyone willing to post a couple of detailed pictures of it installed in an air conditions car? I believe it would be the same for all A/C e-bodies, maybe?

Thanks,

Jerry

 

[Ronbo73]

Picture request. When I purchased my 73 340 Cuda automatic, the heater core had been bypassed and the heater core valve was a box of spare parts. The part looks new but I have no idea how to install/hook up without a service manual. Is anyone willing to post a couple of detailed pictures of it installed in an air conditions car? I believe it would be the same for all A/C e-bodies, maybe?

Thanks,

Jerry

Hello Kansan, Are you talking about the diverter/mixing valve mounted on the passenger side inner fender? There are two different types. One is all metal and the other is bakelite (spelling?) I have the bakelite type. My control cable comes out of the firewall below the brake booster and up across the firewall. Other control cables, from what I have seen, come out below the heater core. My car is a factory A/C car. The hose on the right side of the valve is 1/2" and the left side is 5/8". The hoses on the backside of the valve are both 5/8" on my valve. I hope this helps.

 

[Lunchbox]

From the 70 Service manual for a 340.

 

[Kansan]

Hello Kansan, Are you talking about the diverter/mixing valve mounted on the passenger side inner fender? There are two different types. One is all metal and the other is bakelite (spelling?) I have the bakelite type. My control cable comes out of the firewall below the brake booster and up across the firewall. Other control cables, from what I have seen, come out below the heater core. My car is a factory A/C car. The hose on the right side of the valve is 1/2" and the left side is 5/8". The hoses on the backside of the valve are both 5/8" on my valve. I hope this helps.

Yes, thank you. The one i have it metal and is "new" so I'm sure it is aftermarket. I have only found the metal valves online,

Kansan

 

[Kansan]

From the 70 Service manual for a 340.

View attachment 143561

Thank you. My configuration is more like the illustration on the left as the heater core is more centered rather than offset to the right like some.

Kansan

 

[Vaanth]

Picture request. When I purchased my 73 340 Cuda automatic, the heater core had been bypassed and the heater core valve was a box of spare parts. The part looks new but I have no idea how to install/hook up without a service manual. Is anyone willing to post a couple of detailed pictures of it installed in an air conditions car? I believe it would be the same for all A/C e-bodies, maybe?

Thanks,

Jerry

The metal and bakelite body heater valve with removable bracket was used on air-conditioning E-bodies from 1970 through mid 1973. As a running change during the 1973 model year, the valve was replaced by an all metal body valve with a non-removable bracket. The following image shows the change notice from the 1973 Service Highlights:

The following image shows the older valve compared to a newer style valve. Note that the newer valve has a different bracket for a later model B-body.

It appears the replacement valve manufacturers have combined some applications and the bracket mounting may not be as original to align with the original inner fender mounting holes and contours. The original metal valve starting in 1973 had the proper bracket. Following are images of an original valve, Chrysler part number 3502723:

If yours does not have the proper mounting bracket, look for an original 3502723 valve, or an early replacement valve from possibly Everco, Murray, or Four Seasons, which should have the proper bracket.

Following is the routing drawing from the 1973 Service manual, but it shows the earlier valve. The 1974 manual shows the same; Chrysler did not update the drawing.

On the valve, the forward 1/2" tube fitting connects to the 1/2" hose from the intake manifold. The forward 5/8" tube fitting connects to the 5/8" hose from the water pump. The rearward tube fittings connect to the heater core. Order is not critical, but generally the lower hose goes to the passenger side tube and the upper hose goes to the driver side tube.

I don't have a 1973 or 1974 E-body to take a picture (I only have two 1970 non-AC E-bodies), but following is a borrowed image of a valve in a 1973 E-body. Apparently the owner has a heater core issue, because the core is bypassed:

Although the mounting bracket and fender attachment differs, the following image shows a similar metal valve in my 1977 Fury (B-body):

 

[Kansan]

This is the valve that came with the car, just not installed. Right style for and April 04, 1973 build date? I think so...

 

[MOPARMITCH]

I sold a **** load of those metal ones, way back when I owned Auto Parts Stores.......They will work sufficiently....

 

[Kansan]

They will work sufficiently....

Good to know. Thank you,

Kansan

 

[Kansan]

way back when I owned Auto Parts Stores

I hope it was a Mom & Pop store...My little town of 1100 back in Kansas had all kinds of business back in the 70's, but they started dying out in the early '80s, Couple of hardware stores, a lumber yard, Chevrolet dealership, a Green Light Auto Parts, couple of banks, couple of drugstores (with soda fountains), an OTASCO, movie theater, TV sales and repair, etc....all they have now is a Casey's, Dollar General, small family grocery store and a liquor store.

There was a small town about 15 miles away that had a Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge dealership. Lots of cool cars around town in the '80s. I'd love to see what's socked away in those old detached garages today...

Kansan

 

[MOPARMITCH]

I hope it was a Mom & Pop store...My little town of 1100 back in Kansas had all kinds of business back in the 70's, but they started dying out in the early '80s, Couple of hardware stores, a lumber yard, Chevrolet dealership, a Green Light Auto Parts, couple of banks, couple of drugstores (with soda fountains), an OTASCO, movie theater, TV sales and repair, etc....all they have now is a Casey's, Dollar General, small family grocery store and a liquor store.

There was a small town about 15 miles away that had a Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge dealership. Lots of cool cars around town in the '80s. I'd love to see what's socked away in those old detached garages today...

Kansan

Yes, Independent Auto Parts Stores. 30yr long story, but I started in 1975 as a Delivery Boy. Came up through the ranks, and bought 1 store from the older (than me) owners. Went on to open 2 more. Sold out 3 stores to Carquest in 2000 when price cutting started. Very happy I'm out, but I still retain ALL of the commercial real estate 25 years later, and they still lease from me......

 

[Kansan]

Well, with some help and guidance from some fine folks here I have a working heater system. Did several vacuum checks on the heater core, installed the mixer control that come with the car and put a in a new thermostat. Probably need to shorten the water line going to the intake, but that's easy stuff when I'm bored, Just running water for now, but went out for about a 8 mile run to get it warmed up and the heater definitely works now and no leaks. Next up is the washer squirter nozzles.....

 

[rnradaker]

Picture request. When I purchased my 73 340 Cuda automatic, the heater core had been bypassed and the heater core valve was a box of spare parts. The part looks new but I have no idea how to install/hook up without a service manual. Is anyone willing to post a couple of detailed pictures of it installed in an air conditions car? I believe it would be the same for all A/C e-bodies, maybe?

Thanks,

Jerry

Jerry I found a company that is a lot of help Detroit Mussel They have gasket sets and videos bob

 

[Rons340]

OEM original. I found one seller on eBay that had one. Very hard to find.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

OEM original. I found one seller on eBay that had one. Very hard to find.

Be prepared to change it out in short order, there is a reason they moved to an all-metal design. The original design didn’t hold up well to radiated heat from the exhaust manifold.

 

[Bushtroop]

I am brand new at posting a message here. I am unsure if this is the preferred method. I have a numbers matching 73 Barracuda 340HP. I purchased this from Florida and he had no temperature control valve cable, but rather it was zip tied closed. I am in Alaska, heat is a good thing. My first image is of my control valve with cable. #2 shows that when the cable is affixed to the heater control, with the lever on cool the cable is extended resulting in the cable shortening at the valve and allowing warm air. (backwards) Likewise #3 shows with the lever to heat, the cable at the valve is extended and closes the valve. #4 shows what is almost most certainly the correct location and configuration for affixing the cable to the heater control. #5 shows the point of attachment in the top left corner. #6 is an image copied from 'anlauto' and posted in 2017 on e-bodies forum. This heater control unit has the cable point of attachment at the top right. Were I to have this heater control with the red background, my issue would be resolved. I have the 71" cable from Classic Auto, I have it passing through the firewall beneath the brake can and I needed nearly all of the 71" to make the connection..............What am I missing here?.... I believe my current heat control to be original, is it?...... If so, how do I resolve the problem?.......What year is #6 designed for? regards r

 

[Rons340]

Your connections are correct, however there may be a problem with your cable routing. The cable should run across the firewall area under the dash and exit to the engine bay near the heater box area. that will give you the correct angle and length to make your connections properly.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

That control cable should pass through the firewall on the driver’s side, across the upper cowl to the valve. Note “AC temp cable”

 

[Bushtroop]

Rons340​

72RoadRunnerGTX​

Thank you both for your responses. My cable did pass through at the A/C hole. My research material states that the A/C hole was utilized earlier in the year before moving to the passenger side later on. In either case, my problem remains the same. To set the slide to "Cool" shortens the cable wire at the temperature control valve and OPENS the valve allowing heat. To move the slide to "Heat" shortens the cable at the control end and lengthens the cable at the valve, shutting it resulting in cool air.......Regardless of where it passes through the firewall, the end result is the same. If I had the heater control represented in the image with the red background, my problem would be resolved..... I can not comprehend how to reverse the cable unless I come in from the right, however there is no means to anchor the cable shaft on the right as there is clearly on the left. Fabricating a means to secure the cable from the right is certainly a solution, but clearly, that is not how it left the factory.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Rons340​

72RoadRunnerGTX​

Thank you both for your responses. My cable did pass through at the A/C hole. My research material states that the A/C hole was utilized earlier in the year before moving to the passenger side later on. In either case, my problem remains the same. To set the slide to "Cool" shortens the cable wire at the temperature control valve and OPENS the valve allowing heat. To move the slide to "Heat" shortens the cable at the control end and lengthens the cable at the valve, shutting it resulting in cool air.......Regardless of where it passes through the firewall, the end result is the same. If I had the heater control represented in the image with the red background, my problem would be resolved..... I can not comprehend how to reverse the cable unless I come in from the right, however there is no means to anchor the cable shaft on the right as there is clearly on the left. Fabricating a means to secure the cable from the right is certainly a solution, but clearly, that is not how it left the factory.

You have the wrong version of that valve for an E&B body application. There are two versions that operate opposite of each other in function as related to cable movement direction. Note the slot orientation in the operating lever. You want the one on the right.