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Advice about camshaft

Mopewbie

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Location
Ash Vale, England
Hi all, I want to replace the whole lot cam/lifter/rods.
I'm considering this Melling since it says it brings a bit of performance. The engine is standard with 4 barrel.
The reason I'm considering items from Rockauto only is because they are very straightforward to send items to the UK. I can consider other places but it's usually more expensive and more hassle to get it here.

Well, here's the question: It mentions "use with VS-1120 valve spring", does that mean I'll have to replace the springs if I go ahead with this cam?
Also, would I need any other rod length or just standard ones?

Thanks for your help. As mentioned, it's easier for me if we can stick to Rockauto options, but happy to consider others places/brands.

Thank you.

Screenshot_20251024-134944~2.jpg
 
Most manufacturers will recommend a matching valve spring to your camshaft depending on lift and duration when more than your stock springs will handle. Some machining may even be required in some cases as well.
 
Most manufacturers will recommend a matching valve spring to your camshaft depending on lift and duration when more than your stock springs will handle. Some machining may even be required in some cases as well.
Thank you.
So it doesn't matter which one I buy, I'll have to check the whole lot regardless?

Might just replace lifters and rods of the cam is fine.
 
Why are you replacing the push rods? Or just the lifters?

Lifters in particular have been very hit and miss in quality for years now. LOTS of cam failures due to poor quality lifters. Even the major cam grinders have had problems finding good quality lifters. Personally, I only use the tool steel lifters, but they are EXPENSIVE. The only real reason that I use them is because they are consistently good quality pieces with the correct face that contacts the cam.

The proper pre fire-up preparations and break-in are absolute musts. There are procedures that significantly reduce the chance of a failure. DO NOT just drop lifters on the cam and fire it up!

And if the cam manufacturer recommends a spring change, I would follow their directions unless you have reason to believe that your springs already meet their specs. The springs can typically be changed with the heads still on the engine. I doubt that springs this mild would need additional machining to install.
 
Why are you replacing the push rods? Or just the lifters?

Lifters in particular have been very hit and miss in quality for years now. LOTS of cam failures due to poor quality lifters. Even the major cam grinders have had problems finding good quality lifters. Personally, I only use the tool steel lifters, but they are EXPENSIVE. The only real reason that I use them is because they are consistently good quality pieces with the correct face that contacts the cam.

The proper pre fire-up preparations and break-in are absolute musts. There are procedures that significantly reduce the chance of a failure. DO NOT just drop lifters on the cam and fire it up!

And if the cam manufacturer recommends a spring change, I would follow their directions unless you have reason to believe that your springs already meet their specs. The springs can typically be changed with the heads still on the engine. I doubt that springs this mild would need additional machining to install.
Thanks.
The engine is knocking quite loudly. It has been suggested the can be a bad cam:



If that's the case I'll have to replace the whole set anyway, right? Can't use old lifters with a new cam.
Or maybe one bad lifter? Meaning a new set?

I'll try to open the engine during the weekend and see if I can spot something.
 
I'd tear into the engine and find out for certain what's wrong before ordering parts.

Like I mentioned earlier, it could be a worn lifter/camshaft lobe or even a spun connecting rod bearing. And if it winds up being a spun rod bearing, you're likely looking at a crankshaft regrind. Then a new set of main and rod bearings. The block may need to be machined for new oversized pistons and deck surface squareness. If it's a camshaft/lifter problem, then you can just replace the camshaft, lifters and valve springs.
 
Just remove one rocker shaft at a time and crank it. Or you may be able to just loosen it significantly. Enough to unload the lifters. That way you will know whether the noise is up top or down below. My first impression is that it is not in the valve train knocking that loud while only cranking.

If the noise does go away when you loosen or remove one or the other rocker shafts, you can pull the lifters on that side with a magnet to determine the exact location.........not that it would matter because it is the same fix no matter. If one of the lifters won't pull out with the magnet, but the others will, that will be the culprit because the base has mushroomed.

I wish that I didn't know all that............................................

Anyway, keep us posted.

Oh, and none of that affects the push rods. With no other issues, they can go right back in.
 
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