Lost Interior Power

[Lee W.]

Up date on previous thread. car quit again no power to interior. pulled bulkhead plug apart and found burnt connections. decided to do a rewire with American Autowire 1970 -1974 Cuda. Got most of it figured out but can't get to the back of the gauge cluster to unwire & rewire the gauges. Do I need to take something apart to get to them?

 

[pschlosser]

the dash wiring harness is a big chore.

you can remove the front bezel from the instrument cluster, then you can unscrew the instrument cluster from the dash frame. it should pull out enough to give you access to the wiring behind. the cluster comes out as a unit, and need not be disassembled, further.

if not, then you have to drop the dash frame and remove from the car. I might add, this is my own preferred way to change out the wiring, because we now have access to everything and can route the harness perfectly, like it was OEM. overall, it takes less time to R&R the dash, and install the harness, than it does installing it by Braille laying on your back. less cussing, too.

 

[Challenger RTA]

you can remove the front bezel from the instrument cluster, then you can unscrew the instrument cluster from the dash frame.

The steering column can be lowered a bit to give you a little more room. Undo the two nuts under the dash, that allows it to drop down a bit. If it's bit a chore. Remove the steering wheel 3 nuts, then there is a lot more room. Only takes a few minutes and then there is no problem getting in there.

 

[Lee W.]

the dash wiring harness is a big chore.

you can remove the front bezel from the instrument cluster, then you can unscrew the instrument cluster from the dash frame. it should pull out enough to give you access to the wiring behind. the cluster comes out as a unit, and need not be disassembled, further.

if not, then you have to drop the dash frame and remove from the car. I might add, this is my own preferred way to change out the wiring, because we now have access to everything and can route the harness perfectly, like it was OEM. overall, it takes less time to R&R the dash, and install the harness, than it does installing it by Braille laying on your back. less cussing, too.

Can't get the front bezel off. the plastic on the right is too long and is tucked in under the dash pad. How hard is it to get the dash frame out. can't really see how it is bolted in.

 

[Lee W.]

The steering column can be lowered a bit to give you a little more room. Undo the two nuts under the dash, that allows it to drop down a bit. If it's bit a chore. Remove the steering wheel 3 nuts, then there is a lot more room. Only takes a few minutes and then there is no problem getting in there.

will try that tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

 

[pschlosser]

Can't get the front bezel off. the plastic on the right is too long and is tucked in under the dash pad. How hard is it to get the dash frame out. can't really see how it is bolted in.

I seem to recall the front instrument bezel(s) comes out, without removing the dash. Maybe that is rally cluster, and not standard cluster. The bottom trim pieces (like around the radio) may need to come out, to get the cluster out.

anyway, dropping the dash is mechanically easy, but it's bulky, heavy with a few sharp edges. So getting it out, and back in, without ripping a seat or scratching something takes two people taking their time.

to remove the dash frame assembly:

Disconnect the bulk head fuse block from the engine harnesses and unscrew from the bulkhead.
Remove side kick panels to expose some screws and other wiring.
Drop the steering column (no need to remove completely) so the steering wheel is resting on the seat.

The bulk of the dash frame weight rests on two pivot points, at the bottom of the frame, at the left and right ends, where they mate with the chassis. Loosen the bolts there. When the other screws are removed, the frame is slotted and pulls back, off and away from these pivot points.

Smaller screws, 3? or more, down the defroster vent openings, those hold the top of the dash pad to the chassis below the windshield. Remove those screws, and then rock the dash pad forward and back a little, to confirm you got all the screws.

The final part, involves patience, and a helper, to disconnect other obvious wiring from the dash wiring harness. some examples of "other" things to disconnect are the interior dome lighting switches in the door frame, (behind those kick panels) and possibly lighting for the center console. maybe another is the rear brake lighting harness, running along the driver side of the chassis up to behind the left kick panel.

Anyway, I seem to recall what has to be disconnected becomes obvious as you begin to take the dash pad out.

The helper helps guide the sharper bottom (pivot point) parts of the dash from ripping a seat, or gashing the center console.

And obviously, removing and installing the dash with most of the interior removed is much easier, and one person can do it, with just a little cursing.

 

[Lee W.]

Thanks for your reply. I have a helper next week will give it a try then. hopefully we can get it out then. If not you will be able to hear me cuss from your place!