Recent content by Bret Schneider

That makes sense. I used to align cars for a living so trust me when I say your best bet is to find a reputable alignment shop and pay them to do it. Computerized alignment equipment has come a long ways from the camber gauge and light beam methods of the past. Maybe ask other classic car people...

"I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm." Wouldn't hurt to check the camber I guess but for the record, none of those parts affect camber.

You may want to reconsider how you're routing that fuel line... Good chance the hood or something is going to pinch that rubber fuel line and cause a leak that's going to spray onto the really hot header pipe. That's if the pump can actually push the fuel the distance you're asking it to. Looks...

I must have missed the part about the points. I was thinking electronic ignition. Points are even more susceptible to causing problems like this. Even though the gap might be set correctly if the spark advance isn't working correctly the dwell time gets all messed up. If nothing else, bet the...

I second the need to check and make sure the mechanical advance is working correctly. I've seen the mechanical advance stuck in the advanced position, generally from a little corrosion after an extended period of not moving, as in following winter storage. Setting the base timing with the mech...

Legendary sells the seat foam but only as a complete set. https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/products/mf73cbjset/

You might want to consider a fan controller that can adjust the speed of your existing cooling fans depending on the engine temp. There's a lot of good and not so good suggestions/ideas on the Internet but I would suggest talking to someone who builds them. There's a company in Iowa that builds...

"Yes it does have a idle speed solenoid. Was thinking about removing it." I wouldn't be so quick to remove it since it's job is to address the problem you're having. Rather check to see if it's working. The plunger should extend out when the engine is running. Idle speed needs to be adjusted at...

Sounds like the idle speed is too high. Putting the car in drive with the brake applied is lowing the idle speed enough to alleviate the backfiring. Does the engine use some sort of idle speed solenoid or dashpot? If so, maybe a problem there. And yes, excessive base timing can also lead to a...

"When i hold down switch 1 and start the car the LCD blanks out..." That's a pretty big clue. Like the Dakota Digital suggestion says, constant power could be dropping down when you crank the engine. The other thing could be an insufficient ground. The instruction manual calls out a 18 AWG...

So just for the sake of making sure I understand the manual advised sequence of steps vs the sequence you're trying... The manual says "Press and hold SW1, then turn the key on and start the engine. Once the engine is running, release SW1. “SEt SPEED” should be displayed. Press and hold the...

You'll want to get some spark plug wire looms and get those wires separated correctly. A lot of potential for ignition cross firing shown in those pictures. Could be the cause of the ignition rattle you mentioned.

Probably noteworthy that the two problem cylinders, #1 and #8, are adjacent in the firing order and on opposite sides of the engine. Intermittent issues that move from cylinder to cylinder almost have to be ignition related. There aren't many things that could go wrong in a points ignition that...

Yes, thanks for posting that video. I wasn't aware that the hub/rotor was ever a two-piece design for Mopars. That's the best part of these forums... learn something everyday

"The studs protrude through the brake rotor from the hub and the brake rotor is press fitted onto the center flange of the hub so it becomes a fixed unit." After thinking about it a little more it makes sense that the original hub/rotor would have to be built that way. The engineers wouldn't...