AAR resto

[don selleck]

got a few things done early this past week, cleaned up the washer fluid bottle pump works good still all cleaned got a final coat on some of the orange engine stuff, cleaned the power steering cooler seems to hold pressure. then had to go to regular work the last 3 days kinda held up the progress, a wedding tomorrow and back to

it sunday.

 

[Cuda Hunter]

Those fins cleaned up great!
Lookin awesome!!

 

[don selleck]

yes they did, pretty satisfying for just a few hours of work. Woke up about an hour ago, layed there and fell back asleep, then back up again planning my day out in my head. gonna spend some time with the purple mistress, as my wife calls her. Until the wedding this afternoon. Need to run up to the auto parts store and grab some anti-seize for the heim joint threads on the new tubular uca assembly, decided to bite the bullet after taking a closer look at the stock ones.

 

[Xcudame]

My wife knows my 70 Challenger WSS is my mistress!!

Nice job on the power steering cooler! Really looks good!

 

[don selleck]

mistresses are expensive, and time consuming. but there worth it. got some purple paint on all the parts i could find . painted the cooler and parking brake arm

sem black. Removed the metal woodgrain on my dash, the black plastic wash pretty rough behind it, so scrubbed them up with soap and water, and little scotch bright, then coated with adhesion promoter, then satin black, looked pretty close to original. Still an hour to spare before the wedding.

 

[don selleck]

a few more, any one know of a good marker or touch up paint for the woodgrain is?

 

[don selleck]

installed the front end today with the new tubular, instrucktions say to leave 2 threads exposed out of the end of the uca, set it up at estimated ride height. Ended up pulling it out and spinning out from 1 1/2 full turns more on each side to get a center range number for final adjustment. the passenger needed about 3 on the front side.
the new adjustable strut rod needs you to drill out the lca hole to 5/8" hole just slightly larger than stock. plus a little grinding surrounding the area to clear the larger rod. other than that pretty pain free. Can't wait to drive this thing. Should be night and day from what it was, with worn out everything to tightening up the stock stuff, and a little aftermarket. back to work tomorrow for a day in Ann Arbor, going to hang some floating disc's from the ceiling in a day care that I've been working on.

 

[Xcudame]

Don, looking great! Can't tell in your photos (and I can't remember in previous photos), did you install the auxillary braces on the bottom of the lower control arms?? It's not a show stopper, but they sure do stiffen up the lower control arms. If you did not, adding a few 1/8" x 1" x 3" metal straps to each lower control arm will be just as good as the fancy aftermarket ones. Even without the braces, it will be better with the other mods you made!

 

[don selleck]

ya sure did, also reinforced the pretzel looking k-member, with the fender braces and the plate steel that tied them into a box on the inner fenderwell at the hood hinge mounting area, added a plate steel to the rear shock crossmember that was broken almost off the frame to strengthen the narrow back side of that. Like I said can't wait to drive this thing. .

 

[Xcudame]

It's gonna ROCK!

 

[don selleck]

threw my dirty fenders and nose piece on yesterday, starting to look like a car again.

 

[don selleck]

battling with aftermarket stuff, new parking brake cable, pretty simple cable end into the foot lever to big of a diameter, ground it down to gain room for the retainer bolt. The new thicker sway bar is another story, the bar bracket is pushed too far forward so it interferes with the main sway bar bracket for the k member, well pictures tell a thousand words

 

[Xcudame]

Looking at your fix for the sway bar, I will repeat myself and tell you that you will have no issues assembling your engine! You've got the natural ingenuity for solving problems!

 

[don selleck]

thanks, I'm just on the fence about the right cam for a 408 stroker with a six barrel. I know they like longer duration, been searching threads on similar builds. Talked to hughes but no recommendations from them, been a week so I guess I'm on my own for that choice. will continue to talk to a few more people.

 

[Xcudame]

Don, since crappy Comp Cams bought out Lunati cams, the Lunati are no longer available. Try finding the one in the link below or something very close! Maybe even call Hughes Cams and ask them what they have that is equivalent! You want something in the .500 lift with with more duration (and maybe lift) on the exhaust.

Lunati 10200703LK Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Camshaft Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I have not personally used a Howard's can, but have heard good things about their Mopar cams. This one might work well. Similar to the Lunati above.

Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft; 1964 - 2003 Chrysler 273, 340, 360 1800 to 5800 Howards Cams 711451-08 | Howards Cams

www.howardscams.com

 

[don selleck]

Have been looking into solid roller from hughes have heard and talked to people that have ran them for several years with 0 issues. Thinking of keeping all parts from hughes, but there kinda dicks unless you build engines and familar with stroker size cam selection etc. I run a business too I know what a pain in the ass a customer can be that doesn't know exactly what they want. So I plan on doing more research and will look at those suggested cams in roller specs. Appreciate all your input. thanks again.

 

[Chally]

Have been looking into solid roller from hughes have heard and talked to people that have ran them for several years with 0 issues. Thinking of keeping all parts from hughes, but there kinda dicks unless you build engines and familar with stroker size cam selection etc. I run a business too I know what a pain in the ass a customer can be that doesn't know exactly what they want. So I plan on doing more research and will look at those suggested cams in roller specs. Appreciate all your input. thanks again.

Just a suggestion, try speaking with Brian at IMM engines. He’s built lots of small block strokers and can spec and order a cam for you. He’s a very personable guy and posts on FABO where there is more small block traffic.
IMMENGINES.COM

 

[don selleck]

thank you, I will.

 

[don selleck]

got the front fenders and nose piece in its final resting place, along with the hood which is another story. back in the day the last owner had a guy who kinda tried to fix the weak aar fiberglass hood issue where it bends on the hinges. I'm thinking he ripped down a piece of wood and layed it on the bottom of the hood support and glassed it in. Well he was about 5/8" off on the drivers and 3/8" on the passenger. I figured I would address this before the engine goes in so I can attach something to the sides of the main support inside the compartment, while someone lines up the outside with the fenders. of course after I cut out the last support attempt and relief cut the factory

support without cracking the outside surface, should be fun.

 

[Xcudame]

I love the beer on the fender Don!!