how to preserve rusty parts on 71 barracuda convertible slapstick mechanism

[CFL]

Hey guys I need some advise. I've been cleaning up rust on the floorpans of my 71 barracuda convertible using POR 15 then prime and painting it but now I have also found rust all over slapstick gear shifter mechanism. I think I can use the same POR-15 to clean up the parts but how do I seal the metal without having to paint it. I'd like to keep it looking like bare metal. Here are some pics to understand what I am talking about (not sure why the pics are sideways but you get the gist). What's the best move?

 

[Deathproofcuda]

I would use this,

Rust Prevention Magic (RPM - 8 oz.)

Seems kinda spendy for a 4 or 8 ounce can, but a little goes a long way.

 

[Cuda416]

Fluidfilm is another option. Lanolin based

 

[Katfish]

I'd just brush some Ospho on it, works well and not messy

 

[Challenger RTA]

Elbow grease!
Your not going to see it. Clean rust off mechanism and paint. That's what I would. Clear coat it with a rattle can. Mechanism work better when free of debris.

Done this too.

 

[CFL]

I would use this,

Rust Prevention Magic (RPM - 8 oz.)

Seems kinda spendy for a 4 or 8 ounce can, but a little goes a long way.

Thanks, I'll look into it. I've never heard of Rust Prevention magic.

 

[CFL]

Fluidfilm is another option. Lanolin based

This stuff looks good. I read its got a bad odor, I wonder if it lingers or go away once it dries?

 

[CFL]

I'd just brush some Ospho on it, works well and not messy

I thought id need a sealer cus wont the rust just come back?

 

[CFL]

Elbow grease!
Your not going to see it. Clean rust off mechanism and paint. That's what I would. Clear coat it with a rattle can. Mechanism work better when free of debris. View attachment 146442 Done this too. View attachment 146443

Thanks, I'll keep this option in my hip pocket. I dont want to paint it if i dont have too

 

[Xcudame]

I'm going to through this out there because some might be interested. Since the shifter parts in question are inside the car out of the elements, the surface rust you see will never get any worse. After all, it's 50+ years old. Once steel gets a surface rust on it, it won't get worse as the iron oxide works as it's own coating as it's harder than pure iron. Old racers trick back in the day was the machine a block, set it outside in the rain and snow (winter most place, summer here in the desert) and let it get surface rust on it. The small rust layer is harder than the surrounding metal. Theory was it made the cylinders tougher and less prone to wear.
Regardless, once steel gets a rust layer, it won't get worse unless exposed to moist air (moist salt air being the worst).
I'm lazy, the center console will cover the pieces. No one will know they're rusty. I'm betting they'll easily last another 100 years.

 

[CFL]

I'm going to through this out there because some might be interested. Since the shifter parts in question are inside the car out of the elements, the surface rust you see will never get any worse. After all, it's 50+ years old. Once steel gets a surface rust on it, it won't get worse as the iron oxide works as it's own coating as it's harder than pure iron. Old racers trick back in the day was the machine a block, set it outside in the rain and snow (winter most place, summer here in the desert) and let it get surface rust on it. The small rust layer is harder than the surrounding metal. Theory was it made the cylinders tougher and less prone to wear.
Regardless, once steel gets a rust layer, it won't get worse unless exposed to moist air (moist salt air being the worst).
I'm lazy, the center console will cover the pieces. No one will know they're rusty. I'm betting they'll easily last another 100 years.

Thanks for the reply. I learned something today.

 

[pschlosser]

if you bothers you (and it might bother me) that the rust is there, you can treat it with any of the many phosphoric acid rust removal products out there, get it clean, wash it off, and give it another 50 years to rust again. even soaking it in straight vinegar for a few days will take most of the rust off of there. if you want to got he extra mile, wipe them down afterwards with some diesel fuel or other light oil, and it may take 75 years for the rust to return. By then, your grandson will be driving it.

 

[CFL]

if you bothers you (and it might bother me) that the rust is there, you can treat it with any of the many phosphoric acid rust removal products out tere, get it clean, wash it off, and give it another 50 years to rust again. even soaking it in straight vinegar for a few days will take most of the rust off of there. if you want to got he extra mile, wipe them down afterwards with some diesel fuel or other light oil, and it may take 75 years for the rust to return. By then, your grandson will be driving it.

Yup, it bothers me knowing its there so i think I'll do what you recommend. Thanks.

 

[rklein71]

I have had good results with Evaporust, although it is a little spendy. Here is a Youtube video to make your own, says it is better and much cheaper.

 

[pschlosser]

I have had good results with Evaporust, although it is a little spendy. Here is a Youtube video to make your own, says it is better and much cheaper.

that video got me started using using citric acid as a rust remover. I use it more frequently than any other type of rust product. that said, you must mix your own, which not for everyone, and not without caution. next in line are the phosphoric acid products, which are the majority of products available to buy at local stores. evaporust, by comparison, while pretty darn good, is just too expensive for my needs. if you just want to buy something an use that is cheap enough to use anywhere you find rust, phosphoric acid products are hard to beat.

the title of this thread refers to PRESERVING (nee preventing) rust and that requires a coating of some kind. but the OP may have concluded the prevention may not be worth the effort on the parts suggested. still, cleaning off the rust that is there is still as easy as soaking/painting/washing the parts in a simple solution and call it done.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Pick your poison. He picked them all.

 

[ctaarman]

For mild surface rust, use a jelly based rust remover. Rince, then spray a light coating of Boeshield on it. The name comes from Boeing Aircraft who developed it for protecting bare metal. You can purchase online.

 

[rklein71]

that video got me started using using citric acid as a rust remover. I use it more frequently than any other type of rust product. that said, you must mix your own, which not for everyone, and not without caution. next in line are the phosphoric acid products, which are the majority of products available to buy at local stores. evaporust, by comparison, while pretty darn good, is just too expensive for my needs. if you just want to buy something an use that is cheap enough to use anywhere you find rust, phosphoric acid products are hard to beat.

the title of this thread refers to PRESERVING (nee preventing) rust and that requires a coating of some kind. but the OP may have concluded the prevention may not be worth the effort on the parts suggested. still, cleaning off the rust that is there is still as easy as soaking/painting/washing the parts in a simple solution and call it done.

I have used phosphoric acid for rust removal, especially like it for large areas like floor boards.

 

[MILOJ]

I use a brush with por 15 but keep it away from the moving pivot points