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how to preserve rusty parts on 71 barracuda convertible slapstick mechanism

CFL

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Hey guys I need some advise. I've been cleaning up rust on the floorpans of my 71 barracuda convertible using POR 15 then prime and painting it but now I have also found rust all over slapstick gear shifter mechanism. I think I can use the same POR-15 to clean up the parts but how do I seal the metal without having to paint it. I'd like to keep it looking like bare metal. Here are some pics to understand what I am talking about (not sure why the pics are sideways but you get the gist). What's the best move?

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Elbow grease!
Your not going to see it. Clean rust off mechanism and paint. That's what I would. Clear coat it with a rattle can. Mechanism work better when free of debris.
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Done this too.
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I'm going to through this out there because some might be interested. Since the shifter parts in question are inside the car out of the elements, the surface rust you see will never get any worse. After all, it's 50+ years old. Once steel gets a surface rust on it, it won't get worse as the iron oxide works as it's own coating as it's harder than pure iron. Old racers trick back in the day was the machine a block, set it outside in the rain and snow (winter most place, summer here in the desert) and let it get surface rust on it. The small rust layer is harder than the surrounding metal. Theory was it made the cylinders tougher and less prone to wear.
Regardless, once steel gets a rust layer, it won't get worse unless exposed to moist air (moist salt air being the worst).
I'm lazy, the center console will cover the pieces. No one will know they're rusty. I'm betting they'll easily last another 100 years.
 
I'm going to through this out there because some might be interested. Since the shifter parts in question are inside the car out of the elements, the surface rust you see will never get any worse. After all, it's 50+ years old. Once steel gets a surface rust on it, it won't get worse as the iron oxide works as it's own coating as it's harder than pure iron. Old racers trick back in the day was the machine a block, set it outside in the rain and snow (winter most place, summer here in the desert) and let it get surface rust on it. The small rust layer is harder than the surrounding metal. Theory was it made the cylinders tougher and less prone to wear.
Regardless, once steel gets a rust layer, it won't get worse unless exposed to moist air (moist salt air being the worst).
I'm lazy, the center console will cover the pieces. No one will know they're rusty. I'm betting they'll easily last another 100 years.
Thanks for the reply. I learned something today.
 
if you bothers you (and it might bother me) that the rust is there, you can treat it with any of the many phosphoric acid rust removal products out there, get it clean, wash it off, and give it another 50 years to rust again. even soaking it in straight vinegar for a few days will take most of the rust off of there. if you want to got he extra mile, wipe them down afterwards with some diesel fuel or other light oil, and it may take 75 years for the rust to return. By then, your grandson will be driving it. ;)
 
if you bothers you (and it might bother me) that the rust is there, you can treat it with any of the many phosphoric acid rust removal products out tere, get it clean, wash it off, and give it another 50 years to rust again. even soaking it in straight vinegar for a few days will take most of the rust off of there. if you want to got he extra mile, wipe them down afterwards with some diesel fuel or other light oil, and it may take 75 years for the rust to return. By then, your grandson will be driving it. ;)
Yup, it bothers me knowing its there so i think I'll do what you recommend. Thanks.
 
I have had good results with Evaporust, although it is a little spendy. Here is a Youtube video to make your own, says it is better and much cheaper.
 
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