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Got to remember, I haven't been inside the trunk in years! But my memory remembers seeing an odd wire from years ago.

Next they'll tell you they have everything but the crankshaft! Sorry, couldn't resist. I understand your frustration. Thanks for the heads up on dealing with Scat Enterprises!

Just keep in mind, the Stealth heads are pretty much just an aluminum version of the 915/906 iron heads. Big weight savings!

Sorry, it's the wire going the the license plate bulb. 🤪

Crud. I'll post it tomorrow AM.

Honestly, if checked out by a competent cylinder head machine shop, they'd probably work fine! If it were me, I'd buy Trick Flow 240 heads for a performance engine. Or 440 Source Stealth heads for a mild build engine to get the factory look.

Rocker arms! Dang auto word change!

First off (others may disagree), I'd never run aluminum rocker arms on anything but a dedicated race car! For the street, you need steal or ductile iron. Look at PRW rocket arms...

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! I will respond to your question on your other post.

If it were me, I'd buy a new set of 340 exhaust manifolds and get a nice 2 1/2" dual exhaust system put on it. Either that, or the more expensive option of TTI headers (they have better ground clearance)...

Yes, get oil with zinc and phosphate. I too like to run straight 30 weight, but really having the zddp is most important! Even if you have to buy an additive and mix it in.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! We're all a little crazy here - owning E-Bodies!! Well, at least I am! 🤪 Load some pics of your E-Body (or other Mopars) when you get a chance!

Thermoquad is better than a Quadraslobber! I've worked on both. Have about 50 Thermoquads and zero Quadrajets! 😜

I'm thinking a gallon (4 quarts) would be sufficient. Others will chime in.

With a lot of things Mopar, you could have an early 72 build that used a 71 hood. They always tried to get rid of "old inventory" from the previous year. The clips and nuts might work just fine on your hood.

You seem to have typed an extra digit as Chrysler part numbers in the 60s and 70s only had 7 digits. Did you mean to type PK3410769? If so, that's a small block 727 used for 1970 340 cars. What condition is the transmission in? Does it need rebuilt? Is it functioning properly? For just a core...

@Juan Veldez, go with either the 518 or 500 (46rh or 42rh) before 96 (i.e. 95 and earlier) and it's practically a bolt in deal. Just need to cut a few webs on the over drive housing and grab a new cross member and shorten the drive shaft a couple inches. Search for my posts, I have the pictures...

I wouldn't trust anyone to build an engine for me except myself and my son. But that's just me. I think Hughes sales some good Mopar only camshafts, but their are better folks for other stuff! Just my opinion.

Power steering pump? By the way, I have an 89 Dodge Cummins, shifter like crap and probably in need of a rebuild, but I put a new filter and adjusted the bands and it's running pretty damn good with 260,000+ miles on it!! One thing I like to do on any early 727 trans is add a deep pan from...

Sigh, having only a 70 Challenger and 71 Barracuda kinda limits my knowledge!