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5° Before isn't enough. That's what plugging the distributor into the intake manifold is telling you. Try 12° before and plug the distributor back into the ported vacuum source. How does that run?

Obviously the car was modified with the 440 Six Pack and Shakerhood, but those make it stand out more if it still has those parts. A VIN would help track it down if you care to post it.

You can make your own spring for the lower radiator hose out of bailing wire if your hose doesn't have one. Just wrap the wire tight around a soda or beer can and then install into the lower hose. You have to drain the coolant, but it sure beats a collapsed hose.

I've been to Ennis, Virginia City, Whitehall, Bozman and West Yellowstone while visiting Yellowstone. Montana was the first place I was at where you could get a "traveler" (adult beverage to go)!

In the desert, if you leave your car out even one night, the damn pack rats will crawl up in there and build a nest on top of the battery using the pad. So I don't have or want one. That said, Year One makes a good repro with the right clips. Classic Industries looks good too!

My wife loved cruising in Kitten (70 Challenger) until I bought her a 2014 Chrysler 300 5.7 Hemi. Now it's just me and sometimes the son. And he doesn't care how fast I drive or get close to another car or make tire squeaking turns! 😁

At this day and age (50+ years after they left the factory) I'm not paying more for a NOS part! Best bet is a nice "used" part. Or a functional cheapo reproduction. And yes, there are a lot of scammers out there. They are headed to a special hot place and I'm not talking the desert!

Big block or small block? But it really doesn't matter. There are lots of aluminum radiators out there now. Just get one with the upper and lower hoses on opposite corners and think 2 row over 4 row. I'd try to find and spend the extra money on one that looks like the original factory type...

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Montana sure is beautiful on the west side. Show us some pictures of your Mopar!

Just think about it, we're talking 55 year old parts that are starting to fail! 😁

@Bret Schneider I would never disagree with you as to the ease of working on disc compared to drums, but on the rear of our cars (and trucks) that have drum brakes, drum brakes are the cheaper and more efficient way to go expense wise.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! 340 is the best small block as you can rev it higher than the 360 (factory build)! Kinda on par with the 383. Let's see some pictures please!

Only 17x9 are available right now. Not sure why the 17x8 aren't available. Year One belongs to the site. Maybe @Joeychgo or @toolmanmike can ping Year One for us.

Keep in mind that most Mopar speedometers are pretty dang good! You got the rare crappy one. Sorry, but glad you got to the root of the problem. California Highway Patrol had certified speedometers when they drive Dodges.

The rule of thumb is the car when finished is worth have the cost of the parts and zero cost of labor! It really is a labor of love to fix the ones that are close to crushing and melting.

I agree with @larry4406 if all the convertible parts are there, it makes worth something. But replacing all that sheet metal! Ugh! Check the parts Larry listed and if there, I wouldn't pay more than 3k for sure. Sounds like a nightmare project unless you really love lots and lots of labor!

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Show us some photos of your 71 Challenger Six Pack please! 🙂

@fk5aar you're right! I remember now, the rear panel clips are narrower at the base and not as long/tall as the door panel clips. They look similar to these Ford clips at Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-700-399?srsltid=AfmBOooWI1oAWdWRrz_QNvDoBBuAZWUtMvxdwFRJJUzyeOJNkjhcMRt0

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Nice diamond in the rough Challenger! Nothing wrong with a 318! It's just a small bore 340 when you put all the other 340/360 parts in it! 🙂 Everything is getting expensive now unfortunately. If you have the skills, you are better off doing the work yourself!

On the steering shaft, there is a big lock washer that goes between the pitman arm and the nut. On the pitman arm to center link, there isn't a washer, just a nut and cotter pin.