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I know people claim it's OK to pre-soak lifters, but I never do. They'll get lots of oil very quickly at start up. The lifter puller through the heads should work, but worst case you will need to pull the intake manifold only. And new lifters will require camshaft break in like a normal break...

If you're meaning the front armrest screws, they're #1/4-16x1.00" long Pan head Phillips. With a zinc finish.

But we still say "Cylinder Head Bolts" because of habit I guess. "Cylinder Head Screws" just doesn't sound right to me. 🙂 Side note, since nuts and bolts get screwed, are they all screws?? 🤪

The key to 440 power is all the the quench zone. You need pistons that will give you ~.040" to .060" between the top of the piston and the earlier closed chambered heads. Get the quench right, you can probably get 400 hp (kinda wimpy for a 440!) with any after market camshaft out there. For...

Bilsteins or QA1 shocks! Some use Koni, but trust me on the Bilstein or QA1.

You did buy your Borgeson box from Peter at Bergman Auto Craft and got his kit with the proper fittings he machines, didn't you? If not, give him a call. (516) 384-6438

From Chevy to Mopar! 👍

They look like the 8 valve cover bolts (screws) in the middle of the valve covers. Also the oil pan bolts are the same size and most have the same anchor symbol on them!

On the 70 and E-Bodies there is a lap belt and shoulder belt that buckled separately and they were colored to match the interior until the last part of production 1971 when they all became black. In 72 to 73 E-Bodies (all black), the shoulder belt was able to attach to the seat belt. So I guess...

@cuda joe did you mean to attach a picture?

Like I've said, I learn something new every time I log into this site. Regarding the small vs large yoke, the following Moog adapter joint can be used...

The C-Body rear assembly is 63.4" from flange to flange while the E-Body is 60.7". Also on the C-Body, the perches where the leaf springs attach are 47.3" apart while on the E-Body the leaf spring perches are 46.0" apart. To use the C-Body Rear axle, you'd have to cut and weld the spring perches...

Some of the early small blocks had this kind of PCV valve. You pulled the whole thing off to add oil. Is that what your valve covers have?

383/400/413/426w/440 from 64 to 78. 59-63 the big block heads had only 4 bolts and no studs. @DetMatt1 you are technically correct. What we call head bolts are actually screws, but it just doesn't sound right calling them head screws after folks calling the head bolts for over 125 years! 🙂

Every old Mopar I've driven with power brakes seem to have low brake pedals. So you're probably OK with everything now. When the self adjusters are working properly, it's difficult to remove the rear drums without manually loosening the star wheel. It's kinda of a pain. You have to hold the...

I remember as a kid helping my Dad work on various Mopars he owned. Occasionally he would crawl underneath to work on something and I'd wait by the car and him for when he needed a different tool. More than once I'd eventually hear snoring. Dad worked hard and probably just need a break from...

White lithium grease is pretty dang good for the price. You really want something better and not concerned about cost? Try Krytox 240AC, but it is not cheap ($470 a tube!)! But it's aerospace (NASA) type grease. I've used it on interior doors parts for years...

@Brads70 nice job! 👍

So just pop the rod out, move the clip to the outer hole and pop the rod back in and you should be good to go! 🙂

OK. I took a picture of my 71 Barracuda and also a picture of a similar type clip.