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1/2" sounds about right! Hopefully you packed the lower control arm sockets with long fiber grease and the rear sockets in the frame once the clips are installed. Then the boots, I pack grease in there too! Center drill in the ends are for manufacturing purposes.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Are you going to buy another E-Body?

If pressed, I'd go with a longitudinal stripe because it really accents the ridge on the Challenger and how it sweeps up on the rear quarters. But certain colors look really good with the "rump" stripe.

Instead of taking the door glass out, I'd spray the glass with WD40 and just roll them down when painting! Then clean them up with Windex. Like @pschlosser said, too many cuts and scraps to R&R the window glass if you don't have too! Heck, don't put anything on the glass, roll them down, paint...

175 ft-lbs for the arm the gear nut. Every pitman arm I've ever installed had a master spline to prevent any tooth misalignment, but who knows what kind of Chinese crap is out there these days!

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Hemi blocks are definitely taller than a 340 and used different parts than the small block shackers and a different base than the other big blocks (2 four barrels). Can't wait to see some pictures!

After checking all the above, and it's OK, make sure you take your car to a place that's smart enough to set the ride height before attempting an alignment! Also, you want to use specifications from later B or R Body that has radial tires.

There is no seal, just plastic fitted into plastic. The awesome guys above answered your vacuum question.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! 70 Challengers are pretty nice! The first iteration of the new Challengers were based off of 1970s and then the second iteration was based off of 1971s. I like the 72-74 Challengers, but they do have that "sad mouth" and only had small blocks from the factory...

E61 is a two barrel, E63 is a four barrel. At least for 70. There was at one time (1968 in particular) when there were two different 383 4 barrel. The Roadrunner and Super Bee has a 335 hp version (bigger camshaft and stiffer springs) and there was the 330 HP version in everything else. I could...

Just throwing this out there, if it's a down flow radiator (as opposed to a cross flow), I prefer the inlet and outlet to be on opposite sides. Proven better cooling that way.

I can see 425492 in the above body stamp. Heck, no engine and transmission, you can put whatever you want in there! I'm partial to big blocks myself, but modern Gen III Hemis get my vote as well! That being said, the Mopar small block is pretty awesome too! My opinion, slant six numbers...

My understanding is that for the B and E-Bodies they only built the E63 383 HP four barrel 383. @Vaanth 's documentation points to this as well!

I think you're OK. Post a picture of the VIN, door sticker or Fender Tag! The numbers on the body are stamped pretty deep on your car. Sometimes a shot of the backside of the radiator yoke will give a nicer mirror view.

😂 (I really miss that button!)

Pictures will help a lot.

The knurled section is smaller (.665" vs . 675" for the Dorman), so should work!

Honestly that's kinda sad Don! But at least you're having fun!! 🤪

I agree with @pschlosser, the rear end noise might be something other than the rear axle gears. Check the U-joints. Going from 3.23 to 3.55 gears will increase rpm by 10%. Not sure what you mean by compression 10 to 10, but what you want is all cylinders bring close to one another. Actually a...

RockAuto (or Dorman 610103 part number): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1973,challenger,5.6l+340cid+v8,1078680,wheel,lug+stud,7680 When installing the studs don't be tempted to use the threads and a wheel nut to install them! I use a vise (Harbor Freight) and a deep socket. It takes...