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You'd be surprised what toothpaste on a buffing wheel will clean up scratch wise.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Nice looking Cuda! 😁

I find it hilarious when these "air gap" intakes started popping up for various engines because Chrysler big blocks have had "air gap" intakes since day one in 1958!! Glad I've kept my old LD340 (not an air gap) as it's probably a better intake than all these Chinese "air gaps". I'm betting...

I'd go with 245/60x14 or 235/70x14 on all four corners since your going to 15" wheels in the future. Get which size is cheapest and enjoy for a couple years burning rubber!! Heehee! Either 235 or 245 will fit all four corners with no issues. It's getting to the point where only trailers have...

It's suppose to be white vinyl (which I have), but when I bought the car decades ago, the vinyl was missing and I painted it white. And it kinda grew on me. Two inch tips where factory, yes!

Yes, please describe more what your looking for because the are a few places where toothed strips appear.

You can certainly fix or make less notable scratches than a crack!! Call a glass place in your nearest town (I say that because I live in the boondocks not in town)!

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! I think you described about 99% of us with the "Old guy with a lead foot"! A 340 in an E-Body is a nice package! And though I love all E-Bodies more than any other make, the 70 Challenger is my favorite followed by the 70 and 71 Cuda and 71 Challenger. And then...

I have a good pair on my 70 Challenger and a rusty pair in a box in my barn that are factory original. Zoom in for the right configuration.

Thank you @slantfish for keeping the mighty slant six alive! Side note I've mentioned before, the Chrysler slant six is the only engine that went from automobiles to industrial vehicles with zero changes!! 😁

It was fun trying to get the soda blaster to work! You'd think in the desert the soda would stay nice and dry. Well, it did all except the bottom exit valve which Heminut and I had to dismantle to break up the bit of soda cake. Then it worked just fine. Heminut, that console looks really nice...

It's not the engine that's moving up as much as the TTI headers. You are using TTI headers aren't you?

Do you know the static compression ratio? The early 340's had 10.5:1. Probably closer to 10.0:1, but would require the best crappy gas out there (93 octane). Not sure what you have for gasoline brands, but out here in the Southwest, Chevron has the best additives. If you know the particulars of...

When does "old" turn into "antique"? 🙂

Here's a link of a member just replacing his entire ignition switch. https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/threads/replace-ignition-switch.41142/page-2#

Some previous owner had a huge key chain with half a pound of keys on it and has worn it out! Live with it or swap out the ignition switch. Not to sound callous, but really that's your choices.

Try the shims on the rear transmission mount first! just a 1/4" shim can really raise the back of the engine a 1/2" or more.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Gotta share some photos please!

The original truck lock shield was metal from the factory. @pschlosser is probably right about the factory interior panels being polypropylene. Nothing seems to melt them (like glues or plastic welders) very well!

If you think about, fifty years or more later, it's not new anymore. Even if not installed, it could be brittle, seized, rusty inside, etc. So stick with a usable used part or an aftermarket part. The used one was recently working and the repo is newer!