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It's just impressive how there taking care of you!

Nice! Do you own the body shop? Or do you have something on them?

The dark blue with a white tracer. Is ignition 1. In short. Go to the steering Column plug and recheck both sides again. A bit more if how things get power. Take notice to the diamond shapes with numbers in them. Those are the splices. Steering column plugs. Ignition switch connections...

Look at the fuse box in the diagram post #6. One side is marked Batt. When the battery is hooked up there is always power there. On the ACC side there is only power there when the key is on. This is the back side of the fuse box. Note the bus on the red and black side do not go the whole way...

The wiring in general is the same. There are some added or subtle differences over the years. Like you seen with the door switches. The California spec that's highlighted in yellow. Don't know what you might come across. 73 and up electrically assisted choke control?

So you are also a victim of the recall! Any how your over it! Welcome to FEBO! Looking forward to what you are going to do.

Go here: Brake issues Read through see what you find.

I do think there were different A01 door switches some years. I know 71 is different then 72. https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/threads/complete-dash-harness-replacement-and-the-signal-lights-dont-work.39659/#post-228903

All I can say is that the color is different than stock wiring. It should connect to the door sw. Not sure if you have the right door sw. That wire you are showing goes to the dome light. The dome light is powered by the door sw and the dimmer sw.

OK that I'm not sure of.

This is what might be different from an OEM harness. I cant say, I never seen a diagram or harness. Do a dimmer switch bypass. See if the lights are working first. The dimmer sw is feed through the headlight sw. As the blue arrows show. The L1 16 BK* connects to splice 1. That will be hot all...

MH harness don't know if the color codes are the same. Part of the A01 light package. The one under the hood could be for A/C. not sure. electric choke? Brake test?

Picture of fender tag? Never mind ad in the way.

If you are able to jump a wire from the red wire at the plug to the brown wire when cranking. If it fires right up that's your problem. Ign sw. Note the brow wire feeds full 12v to the coil for starting only. I think you understand that. remove as it starts. a extra second or two wont hurt. Turn...

YES. Wire or connection too.

Just to bring it back to the original question. What carb will fit. I'm not that versed in the matter, I can guess. Would like to see a list and there + or - of each if notable.

Thanks for you response. I can read into it. There's a lot of experience that passed through your hands and a few others here. If you stay in a comfort zone you never learn nothing. I still learn here. If you know your limits that's an other thing. To me that's how I see it. Ask questions...

Next if you have good voltage at the red wire. Unplug the yellow wire in the starter relay. Turn key to start and check both sides of the brown wire. The brown wire from the plug, feeds slot 22 the brown wire from the firewall to the ballast. Here again. If there is not the correct voltage on...

There could be a 1 volt loss. That better than 6.5v coming from slot 22 the brn wire. Check the red wire at the plug under the steering column. Keep it plugged in. use a Paper clip if need be. And check both sides of the plug. If there is not the correct voltage on both sides. Unplug and...

In short. 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block. Check the battery terminal at the fuse bottom of the fuse block for voltage. If it's not same there as the battery, there's a bad connection at 16. Don't forget to check the motor and chassis ground by the...