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No power when turning the key

440 RTSE

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Lafayette In
When I tried to start the engine motor would not turn over. Also no power to radio, power windows. Tried turning key back and still no interior power. Battery is good. What do I check?
 
Check the terminal marked Batt on the bottom of the fuse box. If now power it could be the bulkhead connector or fusible link. Be sure to check battery ground too.
If you have power there. Check the red wire in the connector under the column. Both side of the connector.
With the key on. There should be power at the black wire
Accesses.
1787744105136.png
 
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Follow the dots. Understand how it's wired first. Blue charge circuit, yellow battery supply, red ACC circuit. Headlight sw is feed from splice one under dash.
One word explains the wiring and connections. Inadequate! Read Description and follow the dots. The wiring is not heavy enough and the connection were not designed to carry that much amperage 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block, 2:charge wire 18 black wire blue dots to splice one through amp meter to red wire blue dot 16 to battery, 3:ACC feed from splice 1 Red wire Q3_12R yellow dot to steering column. Black wire 12BK red dot to ACC side of fuse box.ch load. The round back alt has an output of 37 to 45 amps max and the wiring is designed for that.
When everything is in good shape

1787706558375.png
 
Challenger RTA has some good tips, and he is the man, and has helped us all be better trouble shooters.

The power path is simple. It can be traced from the battery, through the ignition, to the fuse box. If you need some help taking on the wiring diagram (it may seem daunting, at first) let us know, But once you get your head around it, it is easy to comprehend, test, and verify.

Keep us posted.
 
Challenger RTA has some good tips, and he is the man, and has helped us all be better trouble shooters.
I Agree!!
I should have gave you a thanks. Instead of agree. I do appreciate the acknowledgement. Your postings also show you are knowledgeable.

No really I humble myself with the members here. There are number of members here that are very knowledgeable and intelligent. They add so much value to the site.
I admire 72RoadRunnerGTX for the videos he post. They are very informative. I want to thank him for taking the time to make them. As I refere others to them.
There are more then a few others here are great help to the site. For example EXCUDME. Come to find out he is very well informed and knowledgeable. We'll of all things an Engineer.
I just try to help others out of there conundrum
With a sense of humor at times. I have to say I find myself here standing amongst giants of knowledge.
 
Last edited:
Follow the dots. Understand how it's wired first. Blue charge circuit, yellow battery supply, red ACC circuit. Headlight sw is feed from splice one under dash.
One word explains the wiring and connections. Inadequate! Read Description and follow the dots. The wiring is not heavy enough and the connection were not designed to carry that much amperage 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block, 2:charge wire 18 black wire blue dots to splice one through amp meter to red wire blue dot 16 to battery, 3:ACC feed from splice 1 Red wire Q3_12R yellow dot to steering column. Black wire 12BK red dot to ACC side of fuse box.ch load. The round back alt has an output of 37 to 45 amps max and the wiring is designed for that.
When everything is in good shape

View attachment 158596
It is key switch.
 
I am glad I found this post because I had something very similar to ask. I rebuilt my dash and replaced the harness. I pulled the steering column out and I had the heavier gauge red and black wire by passed the connector and looking at where the previous owner placed in and asked why. Also noticed new switches have the red and black wire not installed in the connector. I guess this is on purpose. Would installing a shunt wire help off load that circuit or is that mainly for the charging system and bulk head connection?
 
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