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Thanks for posting the pictures. The information is lnvaluble.

Points distributor gets its ground through the mounting surface. Take note of the ground of the third picture. NO ground no GO!

The socket is pressed in. Remove the conecntors. Then use a 71 the socket parts to rebuild. The other is to remove the socket and use a 71. The hole might be the same for it to fit. someone here migth know better.

Would you post a picture. The arrows show where I was thinking. It can help others. I would have got back to you soon. But I had to B and E and change a few locks.

If you have power there it doesnt mean you will get spark for ign. The distrubator triggers the coil. Meaning it turns the coil off, then the feild collapes and then you get spark. In short the distibator is the switch for the ground.

When the key is in the on position (RUN) you should have battery voltage at the blue resistor wire. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex connector. Turn the ign sw on check the DARK BLUE White trace wires on one sides. If you don't power the on both side of the molex...

A siginal wake up call. I would have to theories. When spinning you are generating a magnetic field. Per Se. ( Bad Connetion somwhere?) The same as flasing the feild in an AC generator. It needs DC power for it to run. Residual magnetism, also known as remanence, is the magnetization that...

Nothing has really changed ecept corrosion. Cap,rotor and reloctor, check it. Just to be sure check the following. When the key held in the start position (START) you should have battery voltage at the Brown wire at the coil. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex...

Dont know if this is a help. If I remenber, the sping arches over the center some how and the is a round stub it goes on. Others might know better or have a picture.

Welcome to FEBO.

Voltmeter I ment to type volt gauge instead of amp. Brain fart! good thing you understand.

Ok that's what I thought you were talking about, it explains it better. rklein71 Has been there done that.

Just to be sure. This is not a stock flat hood, right?

I think rklein71 and there are a number of members here understand what you are doing. With out going into a detailed explanation. I would remove the tail panel and use the 1/4 holes for the the 70 panel. Put one or the other tail panels back on and mark it. ( making it removable.) Then proceed...

Hood adjustment.

I was thinking there was a voltage gauge put in.

Good info above. Before I throw gobs of money at it. I would diagnose where the enige is at. 1 As mentioned compression test. 2 leak down test. Then do a vacuum diagnoses. If in spec check distributor for vacuum and advance. Vacuum leak? Then proceed through all tune up secs. Does the sniper...

What to check on the harness. The higher current loads. Loose conntions and brittleness at the ends and at bend. 1 check amp gauge wires. The black alternator feed at the amp gauge and bulkhead connector. The red battery feed at the same locations. If there is any indication of melted wire...

The harness thar your going to use. Now is time to inspect it. In my option the OEM harness is ok. Just a few things to check. Was it exposed to the elements. Two good things about OEM. There's less likelyness of shooty workmanship. The other is it's not made of soy. It attracts rodents.

The only dumb question, is the one that's not ask when it needs to be ask. Go to the sites and navigate to your needs. Service manual