Search results for query: *

B-body is my guess.

doing things on a budget is indeed possible, but expect it to take years, perhaps decades, to get the parts you want in the desired condition and price points. and as time passes, it's becoming less, and less probable.

these cars flex, I think the convertible more so than the hard top. The flex may be related to where we lift a big block car, too. I've seen the reveal (the gap) around the doors change after lifting the front of the 440 hardtop car at the K-frame-sway bar area, and I can get it to return to...

Based on my own experience, KYBs can be stiffer than OEM, and soft on the rebound. I've used them in a 280ZX I rebuilt with polyurethane bushings, and a 1971 GTX B-Body. I liked the stiffness at first, but grew to dislike it in time. Further, I too have grown to dislike air shocks, especially...

true story: I was eating a curry dish just a few nights ago which had hard-boiled eggs in it. They were smaller than my thumb, interesting, unique and bite-sized. I'm pretty sure they were quail eggs. I asked the waitress, a cute little blond with an infectious smile, what kind of eggs they...

is this another "which options are cool" thread? even one that is "which options would make my car more valuable" thread? let me go copy paste from some other threads, be back soon...

Please share more info about the kit.

peel and stick? often, we can get the surface wet so we can slide the overlay around some, then let it dry.

I had a love-hate relationship with my 1970 Barracuda convertible. It was great on warm sunny days, with the top up or down, but even with the top up, it's a cold vehicle when it's cold out. It definitely seems a "sunshine state" type of car.

you may want to drive one, a 4-speed muscle car, with pistol grip shifter, before you finalize your conclusions. I own a nice auto car, but I would consider trading it for a 4-speed car. they are pretty wild and fun. are they faster? maybe. maybe not, but they are indeed more fun than...

they don't flex much with no engine and transmission in them. keep the doors attached, at first, you can can tell if they are flexing by the reveal gap around the door changing.

I think 72 and later, the year they released "unleaded fuel"

ooh, nice repro face plate. I want that.

they look rough. I vote $300 with the rockers, $200 or less without.

those DO look like 1.88 and 2.02 heads, as the valves are nearly touching. the more common 1.88 and 1.60 valves have a clear gap between the valves.

i would not want those rockers. if you want to inspect all the seats, the only way I can think of is buying and bringing a compressor tool, so you can remove the valve springs on each of the 16 valves, dropping them for inspection. if the seller isn't doing this for you, make him wait while you...

the valves where they mate with the seat, they are, more or less, protected from exposure to air and moisture, and may prove to be sound and usable. the rest can be cleaned up, so I see no evidence by those photos, there is damage beyond repair.

our local library has a 3D printer they lease out for use. if you supply your own filament, its a fixed cost per print.

the only molding I can visualize is the chrome drip rail, itself. if memory serves, it screws to the chassis. but I don't think of the sheet metal (often painted) underneath, to which the chrome trim affixes, the "drip rail"

more photos