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Yes, you need to turn the engine over so that the oil hole/gallery to the rockers gets aligned unless the cam or bearing is grooved. Personally, I always groove the cam, but it is certainly not necessary in most cases. And your readings now don't mean much. Your issue is the oil pressure at...

Hence, my recommendation for some dyno time. It will indicate a bad converter in nothing flat. And most other engine and transmission issues as well. Either dyno time with a good operator that knows his job, or an experienced muscle car mechanic. Either one should be able to get to the bottom...

Stall and flash are two different things and are measured differently. And neither are an issue with a street driven 440. The converter could not be too tight for a properly operating 440. .

The vacuum pump and canister have nothing to so with the engine's operation. They are for accessories like power brakes. This is why the internet is not the place to diagnose these kind of issues. .

The OP said it had a 'big cam', so at least some of those vacuum readings will not apply and confuses some of the rest. Also, a 'big cam' will like a lot more and earlier ignition lead than a milder one. Timing should be set for total, which for most big locks is often somewhere around 32* to...

BEFORE you do anything, you really need to identify the core problem. If the engine is the problem, transmission and gear changes would be band-aids at best and possibly more expensive than addressing an engine issue. A few pulls on a chassis dyno would not be expensive and would tell you if...

Rubbing the drag link is common. I usually just heat up the pitman arm and bend it down a bit. Requires that the toe be reset, but sometimes you just gotta do what cha gotta do. Lots of choices to address your problem. Just go with what you feel fits you best.

The 6qt pan from 440 Source is a couple of hundred bucks. Millions of stock 383s in daily service lived their entire lives without the extra capacity. As long as you are not going to 'push' the engine particularly hard and keep the oil changed, the smaller pan obviously would suffice. But having...

The HV pump can drain your pan.......when pushed hard. Like hard acceleration which pushes the oil to the back of the pan and away from the pick up, or with hard cornering, or with sustained full throttle runs. You can run the smaller pan with the HV pump as long as you are careful. The 6 qt pan...

Can you tell if all of the lifters/rockers are noisy or only some? That will tell you a lot about what you are likely to find. .

What was your ACTUAL engine temperature when you shut it off? That is the most likely culprit although other things like too high an idle and carbon build up can contribute. Not to start an argument here, but improper timing can contribute to an over temp situation. But it won't play any role...

Even IF the pick up was right on the bottom of the pan, it shouldn't impact the pressure at idle. Especially HOT idle where the oil would be thinner and actually easier to pass the restriction. And if it were so close as to restrict the flow at idle, there couldn't be very much, if any flow at...

I am another one who has never used break-in oil. Just don't see the need for it. And I agree with that start up procedure. The only difference for me may be that I usually groove the cam or have the cam grinder groove the cam journal that feeds the rockers. That does bleed off some oil pressure...

I agree with some of the above posts, but disagree with some of the opinions offered. The OP's hot oil pressure is too low. He should address it. If the OP does decide to go into the engine to investigate, he does not necessarily need to pull the engine. IF he decides to go that route, then...

No, I don't. I am not a fan of synthetics in our street cars. Trying 40 weight VR-1 is a good experiment. Probably the only real down side to long term use would be that the thicker oil just takes longer to get everywhere at cold start-ups. And that is why I use an Accusump as a preluber. The...

I'm late to the party here, but if O.E. correctness is not a must, why not just get a '71 up filler tube? They are easy to change and there should be plenty of them out there reasonably priced. Just a thought. .

I wouldn't run hot idle oil pressure that low in our old dinosaurs. Modern engines have different internal clearances than ours. Likewise, most of our engines wouldn't like 0 weight oils.

If you don't want to dig into the engine itself to diagnose what's going on, you have a couple of options that should help you get some more pressure. But first, make sure that you have an accurate measurement of your pressure and check to make sure that you don't have any lifter noise that...

What is you max hot oil pressure? If you have around 60 pounds HOT, you are okay there. Hot idle oil pressure around 15 pounds is also usually good.

I have actually seen new, out of the box TTIs with rust clearly beginning at the flange joint. I have none of the rust problems when I use reputable coating companies.