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There is nothing like the sound of a V8 powered car going up through the gears of a manual transmission - even when being driven gently. That is the appeal for me.

If you are getting liquid fuel up that line something is wrong. A smell of fuel in the engine bay wafting out of the open line is one thing but not raw or liquid fuel.

No I don't think so. The PCV will create a slight depression in the tank that should deal with any vapours created by evaporating/expanding fuel. After all the engine is gulping the same dirty fuel vapours via the carburettor and fuel pump. What vaporises off the fuel will be free of particulate...

Yes that would be fine I think. I am only speculating but if you cap that line the fuel tank which has to see atmospheric pressure to work correctly - you "may" get the systems of a blocked vent. After a few miles the fuel pump can suck the tank in or the car runs out of fuel.

If this is any help. The 1971 system the engine bay pipe from the vapor separator connects to the air in to the engine for the PCV system.

I am not sure how the charcoal canister works. The overfill limiting valve is most likely pretty important. I am guessing it is some sort of one way valve. But you would not want to connect that tube that runs from the vapor separator to the engine bay directly to the manifold vacuum. You would...

Can you post a pic of what manifold you have and carburettor type. Show the connection you mean. I don't want to give you the wrong info. I am going out soon for several hours and will reply later today.

You can connect it in to the PCV system or even directly to the manifold. I would not connect to the brake booster but a multi hose nipple etc can be used. The system is only designed (when standard) to deal with gasoline fumes - not raw liquid fuel. The correct year factory service manual will...

From the original post it sounds like fumes are the issue not vapor lock. If that is the case and you have all the other parts of the system get a charcoal canister and hook it up following the standard schematic and it should be fine.

It would pay to get the wheels/tyres and adjust the rear axle width to work with the wheels and suspension set up.

That may be a fault in the fusible link or under hood wiring. Get the engine running and start wiggling the connections - you may get lucky. Sometimes gently stretching the wires works also.

Sounds like a wiring problem - a connection or the ignition switch perhaps. Start by checking all the multi plugs and wiring connections. These types of problem can be tricky. Good luck.

Something you have fitted is binding is most likely. Do the wheels sort of appear "normal" when the car is on it's wheels. If not it could be the wheel alignment causing the problem. Jack the car up to try and find the problem. It could be a bit tricky now it is all connected together. I...

I used a company called Stocks Interiors. Their website is still there.

Is your crankshaft drilled for the input shaft? I have a factory manual car and you are welcome to call in and we should be able to work out what you need. I also have 2 clutches I want to sell if you are interested. Drop me a PM if you want to catch up at some point.

What kit do you mean?

If those are repop headlight bezels I found they did not fit very well. That is likely to be your problem.

If you are prepared or intending to strip the diff head they are a good idea.

No I don't believe the secondary air flaps resistance to air flow draws the fuel out of the discharge tube similar to the choke. The difference is the choke flap largely seals the primary venturies the secondary air valve flap does not - there are notches cut in it and it is bent to encourage...

The Carter AFB does have mechanically operated throttle valves/butterflies in the base of the carb. But mounted above that is a counterweighted air valve which operates like a vacuum secondary dashpot and how far it is open determines the amount of air/fuel able to pass through the secondary...