Thanks to all for the suggestions. The best combination for me was using a heat gun and the little Harbor Freight pneumatic scraper. I finished curved areas with a wire wheel.
I'm ready for the next big step in getting my 1970 Challenger back on the road. I will be welding rear subframe caps because of frame rot and welding frame connectors from US Car Tool that are cut to fit the underbody profile. This will require the removal of both factory undercoating and some...
I plan on oiling up the cylinders with something thin and letting it sit for a week or so while ripping out the interior. That should let some oil down through the ring gaps.
I am ready to bring my '70 Challenger R/T 440 out of an 18 year retirement. It's been stored in my attached garage. I had no intention of storing it for years, so I didn't oil the cylinders. My question is, should I squirt some oil (Marvel Mystery, Kroil, similar) through the spark plug holes...
I'm racking my poor ol' brain trying to remember...
Back in the '60 and '70s, pipes were welded on to factory exhaust systems and exited just behind the front wheels. The open ends were capped with oval-shaped plates when street driven. A lot of Chevy models were almost made for them because the...
I bought it in 1982 to build for bracket racing at National Trails Raceway, only 20 minutes away. Setback number one was finding two large cracks in the 383 block (freeze damage) on each side above the camshaft. Not knowing what else could be lurking, I scrapped the block and eventually found an...
I'm not sure if this should be in the For Sale section, so Moderators please feel free to locate.
I spent a couple of years sourcing everything I need to convert my '70 Challenger (440) R/T from auto to 4-speed. Plans have recently changed and I need to sell everything. I really don't know what...
That sure looks like it. I think the mystery is pretty much solved. Thanks to everyone for the help. Guess the next step is to check on an A-Body forum and see if it's worth anything to anyone.