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I have actually seen new, out of the box TTIs with rust clearly beginning at the flange joint. I have none of the rust problems when I use reputable coating companies.

FYI: TTI has had a lot of problems with their coatings. Plenty of threads on the subject on other boards. My personal experience with several sets of them is that the coating is marginal to say the least. And get this; when I called them about the rust on a sunny dry day only driven car with...

Try these guys: Products - SS and AFX If they don't have them, they will know if ANYBODY does. I know the parts are out there because I bought them when I put the KB Hemi in my '68 Dart because using a 'kit' was on the ONLY way that Dart was going to swallow that Hemi. And I used the original...

Here is an old thread that discusses the Jaguar fan clutches. The 2947 is what I use with a cut down aluminum Dodge truck fan. It moves a LOT of air at low engine speeds...

This is and has been a hotly debated topic for many years. Lots of opinions and misinformation out there because this is a very complicated subject. But there is LOTS of information out there from verified sources. So you don't have to be a chemical engineer to make a rational decision. ZDDP is...

An old school trick to get those stuck oil filters off is to put one or two radiator clamps on it and tap on the hex head with a hammer and extension. Always worked for me.

Check your incoming power on the run circuit TO the ECU first.

Yep. We used to carry a spare ballast resistor in the glove box. They were that unreliable.

If you use Timken bearings, you can take your old one and have the ID opened up to where it will just slip on and off rather than need to be pressed. You will probably need a machine shop to do it. That should get you very close if not correct. Then when you press your new bearing on, you can...

Valvoline VR-1 Racing is probably the best and most cost effective oil for flat tappet engines. It's ALL I have used it in my wedges and Hemis for many years. The best test for choosing the right viscosity is to take readings with the oil you have in the engine now at operating temperature. 15...

Over the years, several guys have offered E body Hemi K members. Most had fitment issues. The only one that I know of that consistently got it right was Al Debevec. I have his K in my Cuda. I think he may have sold the business, but not sure. Here are a couple of old threads that have some good...

Sounds like something is either getting hotter than normal or leaking when you push it hard. .

The 518OD has a much better OD ration compared to the GV's. Which is why I went with one behind my Hemi. But why not the 500OD? With the proper parts, they will hold a good amount of power.

Just to be clear: I don't normally recommend any kind of repair in a bottle. But, it is quite common for the clutch pack seals to harden for the reasons I mentioned. And SOMETIMES the solvents in the bottled repairs will soften them enough to show improvement. SOMETIMES. And the possibility of...

Frankly, lots to unpack here................ First, some amount of metal in the filter is normal. When there is a magnet in the pan, they often look like a furry animal even when everything is normal. Second, if the fluid is getting dark and has a burnt smell, those a bad signs. Third, the...

Just remove one rocker shaft at a time and crank it. Or you may be able to just loosen it significantly. Enough to unload the lifters. That way you will know whether the noise is up top or down below. My first impression is that it is not in the valve train knocking that loud while only...

Why are you replacing the push rods? Or just the lifters? Lifters in particular have been very hit and miss in quality for years now. LOTS of cam failures due to poor quality lifters. Even the major cam grinders have had problems finding good quality lifters. Personally, I only use the tool...

We use non hardening Permatex on bolt threads, especially in marine applications below the water line. Not only keeps water out, or in your case, oil in, but it is also a lubricant if/when it comes time to remove them. The threads do need to be clean though to get a decent seal.

I have bought a couple of dozen 3310s over the years at swap meets. Usually, less than a hundred bucks. But NEVER one new. But they were being sold cheap not because they leaked, but because they didn't work well. Personally, I have never had a Holley leak that eluded repair, even on the 6bbl...

So much for civility. Thank you for exiting. Juvenile name calling does nothing to support your position or advance the discussion. .