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You must be doing the inboard relocation version? I looked on the site and the instructions there are for the standard version and don't show any of that stuff. Your instructions don't show any views where that bracket needs to go? You need to contact RMS directly and they should be able to...

I won't be much encouragement on that front. While the stock steering box is significantly lacking, the Stage 3 rebuild or the Borgeson unit are supposed to be significantly more precise. My 2000 BMW M5 is the best handling car I've personally driven and it's a big girl at 4000lbs and uses a...

I'm doing essentially the same thing with my 73, with a few different component selections. I like the round tailights and will be using an A833 and stock front/rear suspension designs with better components. I don't think that the aftermarket coil over suspensions perform significantly...

Good luck. There seemed to be dozon or more PNs for the heads and different casting numbers as well. Problem is that the PN is often times not on the head so you have to slueth out the features (valve angle, exhaust port pattern, rocker mounting, etc) to figure out what PN a head actually is...

Normally the cam manufacturer will have a recommended spring spec for each of the lobes they grind. Max intended rpm will go into the equation as well but some lobes are more aggressively ramped than others and need a stouter spring. I would suggest starting with a call to the cam grinder and...

There are only a few parts of the substructure that aren't re-popped and those are hidden so don't have to be recreated exactly if needed. My car will be new from firewall back on the underside and only original panels will be the Dutchman and trunk lid if I can can rebuild the lip on it...

Ambitious project but should be super nice when done. Looks like you are using a tinted bed liner for a sound deadener on the interior structure? That is something I have considered but haven't looked into how effective it is.

Entire Challenger running gear, suspension, and interior into a 70 Cuda. Looks seamless. No idea how to contact the builder. A Very Special Hybrid

Where are you located? I'm interested but shipping something that large for very far is starting to get really expensive.

Looking great! Any way to show how you are moving material on the front of that driver's fender? Mine is bent in a similar manner, and I was thinking I would need to remove the headlight framing to access the back of it to pull out the crease. You obviously didn't do that, so I'm curious.

That is an A-body tailshaft on the transmission and won't fit correctly in an E-body. You might want to make that clear, selling on the E-body site.

Who was the source for the frame rail/inner fender sub-assemblies? I'm almost positive there wasn't an engineer involved in the welding decision. Probably the minimum someone thought would hold it together in order to save time and material.

I would (and did for my area) put a post in the regional section on FABO asking for engine builder references in your area. If you are willing to drive a couple hours I am sure you will find someone. link to FABO NE regional forum section North East

I don't know about export purposes but unless that part of the support is really bad, I'd try to keep it intact. The VIN stamped in it is important to some people for resale, even if it isn't a numbers matching car it. The VIN is only stamped two places that I know of, in the cowl and on that...

Looking good! That gauge cluster is sharp. Not happy to hear about the backup at the machine shop. I need to get off my duff and get my block in if I'm going to have it running in the fall. Can you share who is doing the machining? I've talked to a couple local shops but always looking for...

That sounds like a great experience, and I would attend if I wasn't going to be on a plane that day. Thanks for posting this Mitch, I'll look into the club this spring. I plan on doing a bunch of track days as soon as my car is ready, but that probably won't be until this fall at least due to...

This is a great tip on the coated bleeder screw. I saw this recently doing my son's Tacoma brakes. Kept getting bubbles and would have been there forever until I realized that opening the bleed more to get more flow was allowing air to come in the loose threads.

Some of the more expensive ones I've seen online (which I assume are patterned on the originals) have a formed reinforcing lip around the square opening. Those sell for a lot more than the asking price here, probably because press-forming that lip is not free or easy. These look pretty nice...

I'm sure it was done intentionally from the factory and there is supposed to be an advantage to handling in some way. But I've slept since I read the article explaining it and can't remember the theory.

So you are using something like a Motiv bleeder that pressurizes the master? You should be able to do the passenger rear until solid fluid comes out, might take longer than you think. Make sure you have enough fluid in the master to replace what fills the pipes. Another way I have used in the...