1972 Rallye Cluster rebuild and other interior tidbits

[sun.stance]

Hey there everyone! I've had my 1972 Challenger 340/4spd for a long time, however I've just recently started driving it a little more. None of my gauges work properly. Speedo needle broke, I don't have the tach hooked up, coolant, volts, and oil pressure are inop, and the fuel gauge is definitely off. Also, the clock doesn't work at all. This is a little annoying and scary. Which leads me to have a few questions.
- Wondering if there were any services out there where I can send my cluster, and have it restored? Make sure the gauges work, make them look brand new, get that clock working etc.
- Was there ever a factory Rallye tach that displayed higher than 8krpm?
- If people can show me diagrams how everything should be wired and connected to the cluster, so I can make sure I have oil pressure, voltage, tach signal etc all set up properly. I'd like to make sure I have all of the right connections to all of the right places, as well as proper resistances at say, the fuel sender, and things like that.

I also plan on doing a proper Radio delete, as well as an HVAC delete. The car is very loud, and I wouldn't be able to hear the radio, so I'd like to just do the proper "radio delete" for the car. I don't care about the fender as much as I care about the block-off plate in the interior, that's mainly what I'm looking for, to really clean up the inside.
I'd also like to do an HVAC delete as I've already removed the lines from the heater core, and I'd like to continue that nice smooth look across the lower portion of the dash, by eliminating the HVAC controls. I'd also like to go a step further and remove the heater core, vent boxes, and find the proper bung for the intake, and rubber plug for the water pump housing to make it look legit, and not have an unnecessary looped hose in the engine bay. My questions with this are as follows.
- Who can sell me an OEM, or make me a custom radio block off piece of trim for a 1972 with a Rallye cluster?
- Who can sell me an OEM HVAC control blockoff plate, of make me a custom piece to compliment the radio delete plate in the same fashion?
- Who can give me the pitch and size of the bung I would need to install in the intake to override the heatercore port, and where can I get the rubber cap to be clamped on the water pump? If anyone has an OEM one from a true heater-delete car, I'd buy that too.
- Can I remove the Airbox without removing the dashboard, or is the airbox integral to the way the dashboard is mounted into the vehicle?


One of my first posts on here, so thank you to everyone in advance!

 

[Challenger RTA]

Here's a start.

 

[70chall440]

A lot to unpack there...

Your cluster can be rebuilt/restored, just google vintage mopar instrument cluster restoration (or something similar) and you will find a number of companies that will do it.

Same thing for your radio delete plate, Google it and you will find picture and threads on forums talking about it and showing how to do it. I don't know if they ever made one (I have never seen one) but they are simple enough to make using a stock radio plate and some fiberglass resin.

Again, some deal for the HVAC delate plate, easy enough to make.

Removing the heater box will be difficult with the dash in the car, I think it can be done just more work that it should be.

To cap off the header outlet on the water pump you can probably find a rubber cup online or use a piece of heater hose and find something solid (piece of metal, plastic, whatever) to plug one end and then put it over the outlet and hose clamp both ends.

On the other heater hose line that goes into the intake is 3/8 NPT I believe so you just need a plug which you can get at any hardware store

 

[moparleo]

70-71 only had 8K tach. 72-74 was a 7k tach. Nothing ever higher from factory. Sounds you need a service manual.

Service Manuals – MyMopar

mymopar.com

Videos

E-Body "How-To" Videos about restoring your Cuda or Challenger: If your browser blocks "pop ups", please visit this YouTube channel to view the Videos: E-Bodies.org Videos Written Restoration Tips: Step by Step "How-To" Articles < Back to “Resource Library”

www.e-bodies.org

 

[Cuda Hunter]

Heater delete trim will be ultra difficult to find. I finally found one this year at carlisle nationals. Paid 400 for the one little part.
The radio delete is easier to find the trim part but will cost you around 300. Don't get me wrong. Your going to look for years before you find this piece (most likely).

 

[fasjac]

I used Redline to restore my cluster in 2009 ish, Shannon did a fantastic job. It’s pricey but perfect.
Or, you can just buy the Dakota digital set up. At least check em out.
Good luck to you.

 

[Challenger RTA]

After you clean and connect connections for gauges. Volts: I believe you are referring to amp gauge, clean connections on alt,black wire on bulkhead for alt.and red wire from battery fuse able link on balk head connector. and battery terminals. there are others but these are a must. oil gauge and temp gauge: are simple. check balk head connectors for corrosion. sending units: if you use Teflon tape check for ground form threads to to motor. pipe dope not as bad for connection. fuel gauge: check strap from tank sending unit to fuel line. maybe rusted connection or gone. one other thing the cluster has to be grounded to work correctly.when screwed in it's grounded. If loose use a jumper to check when working on it. there is something else to check if this does't work.