Walter Phillips
Member
Looking to build a stroker minimum 500ci with about 550hp with a 440ci block. What combination of parts do I need?
500ci plus stroker, 550 hp 440 block
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pschlosser
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you may get many varying opinions on this. I can offer:
for that much horsepower, you'll want ported heads and header exhaust. the factory manifolds and heads just wont flow enough to give you those numbers. you'll need a long-duration camshaft with rocker lift of .500 or more. 440source will have the majority of the parts, it just takes deep pockets, patience, and a steep learning curve, for some.
for that much horsepower, you'll want ported heads and header exhaust. the factory manifolds and heads just wont flow enough to give you those numbers. you'll need a long-duration camshaft with rocker lift of .500 or more. 440source will have the majority of the parts, it just takes deep pockets, patience, and a steep learning curve, for some.
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6PKRTSE
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For only 550 h.p. you don't need a 500+ cube stroker kit.
TIMINATOR
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Heads are going to be the limiting factor! There are lots of aluminum ones out there and most don't flow much more than ported irons in their unported cast aluminum configuration. The best bang for the buck are the raised port Speedmaster heads. But like most others, their flow is not limited by valve or bowl size, but port size at the manifold flange. This is also what limits most of the MOPAR intake manifolds also. There is a reason why Mopar went to the Max Wedge intake port. You want the short answer? Take a 440 intake gasket, and compare it to a SMALL BLOCK Chebby , Ford, or Mopar, Fel pro performance gasket, they are all within a few percent of area at the port flange! Look at Speedmasters published flow numbers on their cast aluminum small block and B/RB heads and the high lift flow numbers are nearly the same! BUT the B/RB motor heads use a 2.2" intake valve as opposed to the smallblocks 2.02" valve.
I have gotten good flow gains thru the years by raising the stock iron B/RB ports as much as practical and widening them also. There isn't enough metal there to attain Max Wedge size, but enough for real gains! You also have to port the intake to match what you (or preferably a skilled porter) has done to the heads. Use Max Wedge intake gaskets and dont worry about the port being smaller. This works because intake port runners taper from the plenum to the port flange. This isn't rocket science, but by using inside calipers you can port back until you reach the size of the desired larger area. Done correctly, keep the port tapered but larger back towards the plenum. Some intakes have less extra room at the top of the port than others, but an hour or so with a Heliarc cures that. A little smoothing of the weld and stippling lightly with a needle scaler blends the welded area into the unwelded area enough that no one will notice this. I have been doing this mod since about 1987 or 8, and no one has ever noticed. Just the ET and MPH.
I am currently doing a set of Speedmaster raised runner heads for my 512 project and when finished, I will post pics and numbers.
Or just buy a set of $5000+ heads.
Around 575 HP is usually the REALISTIC HP limit on stock runner sized aluminum non race heads. ON AN ACCURATE DYNO! And cubic inches alone don't guarantee HP gains.
The same heads and cam on two different sized short blocks will make nearly the same HP, but the larger engine will attain the HP at a lower RPM. It's head flow, cam size and ramp rate, rod length to stroke ratio, and reciprocating weight that are important.
Rod/stroke ratio on the 440 is one of the reasons 440s run as well as they do. With an even longer rod, the piston is much lighter also, allowing even more HP.
A few years ago, one of my customers went from a 383 SBC to a 427 SBC shortblock with the same cam, heads, intake and carb. It's no faster in the quarter, but a lot torqueier and much harder to drive. A nice guy, and although you can ask him anything, you can't tell him nothing!
Class dismissed.
TIMINATOR
I have gotten good flow gains thru the years by raising the stock iron B/RB ports as much as practical and widening them also. There isn't enough metal there to attain Max Wedge size, but enough for real gains! You also have to port the intake to match what you (or preferably a skilled porter) has done to the heads. Use Max Wedge intake gaskets and dont worry about the port being smaller. This works because intake port runners taper from the plenum to the port flange. This isn't rocket science, but by using inside calipers you can port back until you reach the size of the desired larger area. Done correctly, keep the port tapered but larger back towards the plenum. Some intakes have less extra room at the top of the port than others, but an hour or so with a Heliarc cures that. A little smoothing of the weld and stippling lightly with a needle scaler blends the welded area into the unwelded area enough that no one will notice this. I have been doing this mod since about 1987 or 8, and no one has ever noticed. Just the ET and MPH.
I am currently doing a set of Speedmaster raised runner heads for my 512 project and when finished, I will post pics and numbers.
Or just buy a set of $5000+ heads.
Around 575 HP is usually the REALISTIC HP limit on stock runner sized aluminum non race heads. ON AN ACCURATE DYNO! And cubic inches alone don't guarantee HP gains.
The same heads and cam on two different sized short blocks will make nearly the same HP, but the larger engine will attain the HP at a lower RPM. It's head flow, cam size and ramp rate, rod length to stroke ratio, and reciprocating weight that are important.
Rod/stroke ratio on the 440 is one of the reasons 440s run as well as they do. With an even longer rod, the piston is much lighter also, allowing even more HP.
A few years ago, one of my customers went from a 383 SBC to a 427 SBC shortblock with the same cam, heads, intake and carb. It's no faster in the quarter, but a lot torqueier and much harder to drive. A nice guy, and although you can ask him anything, you can't tell him nothing!
Class dismissed.
TIMINATOR
Chryco Psycho
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440 Source 512 kit , stock length rods with short lighter pistons Good heads & Cam [not Comp]
TIMINATOR
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6PKRTSE
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Nothing wrong with Comp. Yes, you hear some horror stories once in a while. You hear those horror stories about everyone's product eventually if you build enough engines. We build a couple hundred engines every year. Most with Comp Cams camshafts with no issues.
Racer Dave
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Comp has grinds specifically for .904" diameter lifters in Mopar engines. Choose one of those if using Comp. If you're picking your own specs, check out Bullet Cams - they have a good selection of .904 grinds.
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TIMINATOR
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Before my well deserved but too late retirement from owning a high end machine/engine building shop, we used Comp Cams almost exclusively. I have heard that some have experienced issues with Comp products, but most related to them using old existing parts like springs, retainers, and locks with higher lift and quicker ramp rate Comp cams.
Having owned a cam analyzer for over 40 years, and analyzing every cam that came through here, some supplied by customers in their favorite brands, and also every one we supplied, I still use Comp cams in my personal builds. With their fast ramp rates all you have to do to ensure great results is simply use new recommended springs, retainers, locks, and installed heights.
TIMINATOR
Having owned a cam analyzer for over 40 years, and analyzing every cam that came through here, some supplied by customers in their favorite brands, and also every one we supplied, I still use Comp cams in my personal builds. With their fast ramp rates all you have to do to ensure great results is simply use new recommended springs, retainers, locks, and installed heights.
TIMINATOR
Chryco Psycho
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Far better grinds tailored for the larger diameter Mopar lifter , Comp will cost you 30+ HP in Mopars
I used a Lot of Engle & Lunati cams , Lunati used to have a lobe selection section so you could tailor you own cam from Proven .904 lifter designs , Comp bought Lunati now unfortunately so I am not sure what is available from them anymore .
I used a TF60 /TF57 110*solid grind in a lot of street builds , friggin awesome cam basically a baby roller .
I used a Lot of Engle & Lunati cams , Lunati used to have a lobe selection section so you could tailor you own cam from Proven .904 lifter designs , Comp bought Lunati now unfortunately so I am not sure what is available from them anymore .
I used a TF60 /TF57 110*solid grind in a lot of street builds , friggin awesome cam basically a baby roller .
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