Komodo
Member
wrong radio. But thanks
70 ebody am fm radio question
- Thread starter Komodo
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Lots of variables depending on how much has to be done. For instance, if I had an STL file ready to print, it would be @ $60-100 depending on how many hours to print and post-process. Ideally you'd find someone more local (easier to work with for test fitments and finish without a lot of back and forth postage), maybe call a couple Maker spaces (check the local library too, some have 3d printers for use), that could either 3d scan one as a base model to modify or that has the skill set to do the modeling. Anyone familiar with standard CAD software and design (Fusion for example) should be able to knock it out, most export the files needed to do the print.
Komodo
Member
Thanks
heminut
Well-Known Member
You might try checking with your local high school too. Ours has several 3D printers and the kids are really good at the stuff they do.
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
our local library has a 3D printer they lease out for use. if you supply your own filament, its a fixed cost per print.
Cudaize
Well-Known Member
I modelled up a faceplate in Solidworks and had it printed at hubs.com I had two printed and it was about $110 with shipping.
The radio I modified was a Phillips manufactured one intended for 71 dodge pickups. I did not have an actual ebody Philips E-body face but based my model on knob style AM and AM/FM radios along with the the 71 dodge thumbwheel and a thumbwheel face for a 69 Fury that has the writing above the controls. It fit with a little trimming around the dials, inner face and push buttons. One of the tabs is not as close as I would like and the section on the face between dial face and the controls is pretty thin and I broke it when I was sanding the print lines off. I see that the someone broke the one I did not use and glued the piece back in, I didn't realize this at first or I would have complained. If I ever printed more, I would make a couple changes.
I would sell you the other one if interested. You will have to trim it to fit yours and sand the marks off, drill and tap for the slider switch, and possibly open some of the mounting holes to make it fit. The other thing I had to do was modify the inner lens and the Dodge truck face was thicker on one end than the other and the clear lens followed the faceplate, where the E-boy is flat in this area.
great design, that's what I'm talking about!! too bad they printed it like ass though. those layer lines and the print quality sucks.
this is exactly what I was talking about though - not bad to get the initial design work knocked out, but the final model needs some tweaks/adjustments to 'get it right' and shipping back/forth sucks for reverse engineering and testing. much easier to find a local to help. I wish I was closer
this is exactly what I was talking about though - not bad to get the initial design work knocked out, but the final model needs some tweaks/adjustments to 'get it right' and shipping back/forth sucks for reverse engineering and testing. much easier to find a local to help. I wish I was closer
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
A long long time ago
I can still remember howthat music " My Son at 5 years" used to make me smile.
He still does. Any how. He ask me. How is the Universe made and made of? I said to him. If you look everything Big, little or small and then put a beat to it. It comes down to patterns and scale.
Now he has 2-3 3D printers. From what I understand. is is sensitive to temperature, vibration and the media used.
So the point about 3D printing. For the most part it's in the consumer stage of infancy.
To do this in you home now it compares to having a Blacksmith in you shop.
As I said about pattens and scale. There is always field adjustments from the engineering drawings. Been there done that from the smallest thing to the biggest. The media in water treatment plant to Highways, Bridges, Power plants. I could go on.
That work is ball busting work! And here's the secret! I doesn't get any easer! You just get better at it. It be comes common place.
just a thought.: Could exterior part be built up more to be sanded smooth. Or should it come out as a finished product, with very minimal work for finishing? It's better to have object to work with then to have nothing. Thanks for your input.
I can still remember how
He still does. Any how. He ask me. How is the Universe made and made of? I said to him. If you look everything Big, little or small and then put a beat to it. It comes down to patterns and scale.
In the mid 2000's my son was bringing home 3D printed objects from school. I was going to have print a few thing in High school. When you hear the Thunder, Lightning has already been there. Before one knows it there out of school!
Now he has 2-3 3D printers. From what I understand. is is sensitive to temperature, vibration and the media used.
So the point about 3D printing. For the most part it's in the consumer stage of infancy.
To do this in you home now it compares to having a Blacksmith in you shop.
As I said about pattens and scale. There is always field adjustments from the engineering drawings. Been there done that from the smallest thing to the biggest. The media in water treatment plant to Highways, Bridges, Power plants. I could go on.
That work is ball busting work! And here's the secret! I doesn't get any easer! You just get better at it. It be comes common place.
I myself would not be to quick to criticize ( Not saying you are) but to ask for help to understand how to make it better.
just a thought.: Could exterior part be built up more to be sanded smooth. Or should it come out as a finished product, with very minimal work for finishing? It's better to have object to work with then to have nothing. Thanks for your input.
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I would say it's a step above the infancy stage, more like in its teenage phase. When I bought my first printer in December of 2024, it was printing stellar prints out of the box five times better than what we see above. Since then I fine-tuned it a little bit more for better quality. The technology is rapidly evolving and Semi-Pro consumer devices are easily under $700 these days that can do the high temperature filaments like asa, abs, glass and carbon reinforced, etc.
I was absolutely criticizing that print quality, that's something I would have expected 5 years ago, not with today's current offerings. The person running the printer needs to fine-tune their settings for better print quality, poor print quality can lead to defects and later adhesion issues creating failures and fail points. There are tons of online resources to help people find tune their machines and print quality, not doing so is just lazy. You can absolutely use auto body filler to do any smoothing and repairs, but realistically you want as good of quality as you can up front to minimize your post processing, especially when you have tight areas like the faceplate does on the front.
If anybody wants to print their own '70-'71 rally wheel center caps, here's my print file for them. Just be aware that if you print them at good quality settings, you're looking it over 40 hours of print and post processing time. Mopar 1970 - 1971 Rallye Wheel center cap by Eyecandi_3D
The first picture is literally my first big print that I did a few days after getting the printer. The second are the rally wheel center caps that I made because I was too cheap to buy replacements
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
That's the one thing I didn't mention. I watch my son doing it. He did mention the time factor. The other was the fumes generated from the process. Thanks for your informed and valued opinion!
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Komodo
Member
Thanks I am looking at working with someone local to make one
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