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74chlngrTT5.9

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Very nice fabbing there.
If it is in your budget and since you are that far into it I recommend adding in the reinforcement pieces there. I am having a brain cramp on the company that supplies them though. Maybe someone can chime in for that.
 

gdrill

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Ok I see. It looks like they install right over the original brace. I'll look into them. They don't cost much...........as long as you have American dollars! At least for the time being.
 

gdrill

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Well, I'm really testing my abilities today. Driver side rear rocker. Both sides are rotted out. I have some rocker panels that I saved from parting out some A-bodies. They have the basic shape to start and then I formed the rest from there as they has a jut outwards toward the front of it. There were also some pinholes that I just welded closed. I primed the inside and as far as I could spray forward to. I have a little trimming left to do yet in these pics, I needed a smoke and beer break! Can anyone explain to me the 5 holes punched in the inner rocker? Something has to bolt there. They would be the cause of the original rust otherwise.

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js29

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AMD makes A really nice striker post, I my self would do it now while your right there. I am sure there is rust under it, I can see the corner is eaten away. no better time than now to tackle it.
 

gdrill

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Actually that is one of the things I figured I would have to buck up for. Those and wheel houses and quarters. The flat and hidden steel is easy to make, but those kind of parts are worth paying the bucks for.
 

moparlee

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Quote....."Can anyone explain to me the 5 holes punched in the inner rocker? Something has to bolt there. They would be the cause of the original rust otherwise."

Not sure why the factory put those holes in there, especially in that configuration. My thought is for the mice to build a cozy home in the winter. That's what is usually in there along with the rust.
 

gdrill

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Ok, so do people seal them up? Possibly they could allow air circulation to dry the rocker area but it would seem they would just allow the moisture in? But I guess the drain slot at the bottom should let the wet out.
I was just looking at a picture of a 70. It seems they had 1 big hole in them, closer to the back and bottom.
 
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74chlngrTT5.9

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My guess on the hole(s) would be for tooling orientation during the forming process.

Mike
 

gdrill

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I suppose that could be. I got thinking maybe they were drains for when they dipped the body. I carried on to the passenger side. It was way easier as I already knew what I was going to build from the driver side. It didn't take as long to do. It's tacked into place and I'll weld it up tomorrow. Beer time now. Once this is done the majority of what I'm calling the small rust is complete. Then there is things like the cross member, frame ends etc.

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gdrill

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Well that's it. Primed and protected. That's about it for the small stuff and I will likely slow down a bit from here on. I'm not sure what I will tackle next.

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gdrill

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Ok, just one more little repair done! This was the only rust along the rear window at the top. The edges near the dutchman need work too though.

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gdrill

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I DA sanded the glue off the roof with 40 and then took it down to metal with 80. There were a few small dents like the roof had been slightly pushed in at one time. I tapped them out and it should be good to go. If anything a super light skim of putty will do. Degreased and primed.

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gdrill

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As I mentioned in the previous post it looked like the roof had been slightly pushed down at one time. My roof support brace had a small twist as a result. So I pulled it out and straightened it. While I was at it I sanded and primed the inner roof. I know it probably wasn't necessary, but I was in there anyway. Now I know it had some form of glue on it originally. I don't have any of that. Would seam sealer suffice to make the connection or should I get the glue stuff for it?

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