Every old Mopar I've driven with power brakes seem to have low brake pedals. So you're probably OK with everything now. When the self adjusters are working properly, it's difficult to remove the rear drums without manually loosening the star wheel. It's kinda of a pain. You have to hold the lever out of the way as you turn the toothed section. 9 times out of 10 I tighten the dang thing first!
Xcudame,
Thanks - after researching quite a bit over the weekend, I tend to agree.
My car has the clutch and brake pedals from my old 72, manual all-drum car.
I bought a power master cylinder years ago for a disk brake swap that never happened, because the 73 I bought had a much better body to restore than the 72 and had been a 340 car with sure grip rear and HD suspension. When I had the car restored, they put the MC I had on a new booster.
Over the weekend I went to the Carlisle Farirgrounds PA Mopar show and talked to a couple of owners, and I also visited the
Ebodies.com tent and talked to several very helpful folks there. They all agreed on two things: power brakes can be a pain, and my brakes engaging so low to the floor is not right. They thought I should bleed my MC.
I did not get an answer on the resting pedal height there, but reading articles on the Eb
odies.com forum and our forum over the weekend seem to indicate the pedal will be lower on a power brake set up and about even with the accelerator pedal. On a manual brake car, the pedal will be even with the clutch pedal.
One thing I had not considered was the position of the brake light switch. After reading that this might be important, and possibly blocking the pedal from raising fully to rest height, I checked that out. Well, it does not block the pedal from rising, but it was fastened all the way forward. I made a spacer for .140 in (about 3.56mm) and adjusted the switch position this morning. I haven't tested it yet, but another article on this forum suggests the switch being too far forward could put pressure on the MC.
