American autowire 12V supply during cranking

[northstart]

Hi fellow e-body gearheads,
I have installed AAW wiring harness 510289 and Holley Sniper EFI to 1970 Challenger.

I have difficulties to find a 12V supply which is hot in "Run" and "Start" keyed ignition switch positions. Car does not start without 12V during cranking. Power leads in the harness and fuse block IGN spades seem to go off during cranking.

Comments and instructions would be appreciated!

 

[Challenger RTA]

This might be a start. 71 Challenger Assembly starts

American Autowire Install tips/questions

Long time lurker first time poster. Just finished a complete rewire on my 74 cuda with the american autowire harness. I recorded it all and posted a video so hopefully that helps some people out or gives them the confidence to do this project yourself. Heres a link to it Key things to know if...

www.forebodiesonly.com

 

[Challenger RTA]

Not knowing anything about the AWW. @Todd Jackson and I went through the wiring. This is the results that we came up with. Todd Jackson would be more versed about this wiring harness. He would have the final results for the applications. I'm more then willing to help out where I can.

So you needed to cut the plug from the switch? This is what it should be on the new turn signal switch to the AAW wiring colors. That your showing me. A better picture of figure E would help.

MOPAR turn signal Switch colors---------- After market Switch colors-------------AAW wire colors


Stop lamps-------------White -----------------White------------------------------------White


L F turn signal --------LT Green--------------GREEN ----------------------------------Light blue


R F turn signal -------Tan---------------------Yellow/ Blk Stripe ------------------Dark Blue


Emg Flasher ----------Pink-------------------RED --------------------------------------Brown


Turn signal Flasher--Red---------------------BLUE ------------------------------------Purple


L R turn signal-------Dark Green----------- Lt Green --------------------------------Yellow


R R turn signal-------Brown-----------------Yellow -----------------------------------Dark Green


Horn relay------------Black-------------------Grn/w-----------------------------------Black



AAW wiring. So you needed to cut the plug from the switch? This is what the colors would be on a new turn signal switch. The AAW wiring colors. Figure E. The Mopar wiring colors. My opinion: If you have the the car side of the turn signal sw plug. I would cut it with enough wire to remove the insulation. Then soldier the AAW wires to the plug wires and have shrink tube on before soldiering. Or get one. That way you retain ease of replacement and or trouble shooting. They are low current.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Turn signal part.

71 Challenger Assembly starts

MOPAR turn signal Switch colors---------- After market Switch colors-------------AAW wire colors Stop lamps-------------White -----------------White------------------------------------White L F turn signal --------LT Green--------------GREEN ----------------------------------Light blue R F...

www.forebodiesonly.com

 

[Challenger RTA]

As far as the start and run, I think they were tied together. I'm looking for the diagram. I thought it was posted here. Below is for 68 70 B body should be about the same. This might be of help. I'll keep looking. White 122, Brown 7 and pink 3A Is that what you need? I'm just shooting in the dark here!

 

[northstart]

As far as the start and run, I think they were tied together. I'm looking for the diagram. I thought it was posted here. Below is for 68 70 B body should be about the same. This might be of help. I'll keep looking. White 122, Brown 7 and pink 3A Is that what you need? I'm just shooting in the dark here!View attachment 140844

Thanks Challenger RTA. Otherwise AAW wiring works well (except fuel gauge shows full all the time but that's another story) and installation instructions were pretty clear.
I'll check the pink and brown!

 

[Katfish]

I had same issue when I installed FiTech.
The answer was to add a diode, between start and run.
That way it had power when needed, and isolated the opposite direction.

Where to get 12V key on inc cranking for Holley Sniper EFI

 

[northstart]

I had same issue when I installed FiTech.
The answer was to add a diode, between start and run.
That way it had power when needed, and isolated the opposite direction.

Where to get 12V key on inc cranking for Holley Sniper EFI

Thanks for your input and the link. I forgot to mention that I have Hyper Spark ignition, so there is no ballast resistor.

Diode sounds a good silution. Just that I haven't used diodes before.. have to study a bit. I wonder what is the IGN2 in the AAW harness? Was also thinking about using a relay, do you think that would work?

 

[Katfish]

Either will work, diode is easier to integrate, small and cheap.
Tape it up in the wiring harness.
Look for a diode used in solar panels, handles power and has a low voltage drop.

 

[Paul Wurtz]

I have the same setup on my Demon. Holley Hyperspark ignition and EFI(no ballast resistor). I went the diode route. Wired the 12v switched wire to both the start and run wires with diodes. Works fine for me.

 

[rmchrgr]

A few years ago I had a '68 Coronet that I rewired with an AAW kit and installed a Holley Sniper. Here's how I get 12V in crank and run since I don't use a ballast resistor. This is a 1968 ignition switch which is in the dash but it's the same idea for '70-up switches in the column - installing a jumper wire between IGN1 and IGN 2 terminals will give you 12V in crank and run. I don't use a diode, the current won't back feed. You can do the same at the ballast resistor if you're still using one, just have to remove the resistor wire inside it and put a jumper between the ends.

After this, I created a dedicated 'buss' off the pink wire (ignition switch feed lug at the fuse box) for things that needed switched 12v like the pink Sniper "on" wire in addition to the Hyperspark ignition box and distributor.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

My Cuda's Holley Terminator X Stealth EFI wiring diagram. Added a main fuse, auxiliary main power relay to a fuse panel, etc.
This isolated the EFI from the factory wiring and bulkhead connector. Also, upgraded to a Powermaster 100A alternator.

 

[northstart]

THanks for sharing! Nice to see that it can be done in several ways.

I sent the question also to AAW tech support and this is what I got from there:

Good afternoon!
When searching for power during cranking and run, note that the original ignition switch setup most likely had a bypass wire. In this case, it was a brown wire which provided power to the ignition system ONLY DURING CRANKING, and then when the key was turned back to the run position, the pink wire took over.

The brown wire will be the unmarked 14 gauge wire and can also be found in the engine compartment wiring instructions as well

.
For power during cranking to the sniper EFI, take the pink and brown wires that usually route to the coil or HEI, and run them to the input wire for your Sniper and that should get you to where you need to be.
Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[Challenger RTA]

the current won't back feed.

Good point. The ing sw when in the run position, is not feeding power to the start contact. There would be power feed back to the start wire but not through the switch contact.

I don't know the system you guys are taking about.
reason being. I would miss the sound of the Thermoquad. Some say there complicated but when you understand it. It's like an old friend you know.

The other is if I understand it correctly. Is the carb is better for performance and the fuel injection is better for mileage and reliability.

I like to think simple. It's easy on my brain cells that are left.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Holley Terminator X Stealth EFI

Question. Looking over the diagram you posted. Is there a roll over relay to turn off the fuel pump in that event? Or is it built into that system? Hope that never happens to any one!