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Best Motor Mounts for Stroker 340

Pappa1

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Hey All: I am ready to drop my newly rebuilt stroker 340 into my 1973 Cuda and need some advice on the best type of motor mounts. I mainly plan on driving around on the weekends and to car shows but of course may have fun with the engine on occasions, too. I will take all advice on which type, suggestions, and what brand, too. TY!
 

Rob C

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Hey All: I am ready to drop my newly rebuilt stroker 340 into my 1973 Cuda and need some advice on the best type of motor mounts. I mainly plan on driving around on the weekends and to car shows but of course may have fun with the engine on occasions, too. I will take all advice on which type, suggestions, and what brand, too. TY!
How much power?
 

gzig5

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I don't think these are currently available.
I modified a standard mount to work like the Mighty mount and Mancini's Mag Mount. Cost $10 and some time.
I still need a torque arm because I can't get the mount to stay put on the k-frame. Too much play in that single bolt hole.
 
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gzig5

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Better replace the trans mount with a similar type. People usually forget about the trans mount ?? Tight mounts transfer power better, you can feel the difference.

Who makes a good trans mount? I know that POS I put in from RockAuto was barely better than the 45 year old original.
 

gzig5

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Rock Auto = cheapest material obtainable.

Yabut... I got the most expensive one, the Pioneer brand name for $5.98 ea.

Lasted about 500 miles and five burnouts. Reason I knew it was broke was the driver side header would catch the drag link when I accelerated out of a turn and it would bind the steering. Motor was torquing up.

I doubt anyone has made a decent standard E-body engine mount since the 70's. If it is anything other than a stock 318 or less that gets babied, you need a special/custom mount or torque arm. The OE design is complete crap.
 

Mopar Mitch

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I'm in the market, as well, for new motor mounts for my 410 SB stroker... soon to be installed hopefully before this winter. I've forever used the factory stock-type rubber motor mounts, but have also used a chain (wrapped in tape) from the driver's cyl head (front) to the k-frame (sway bar) bracket... and I believe that's saved me a few broken motor mounts (always the driver's side). I'm considering to purchase the Schumacher motor mounts (but to still use the wrapped chain as I've successfully done -- hate to experience a broken mount especially when racing... very serious competition pylon autocross and road course lapping sessions).
 

gzig5

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I've heard that Schumacher got bought out. The E body mounts have been out of stock for some time and I think I read it would be a few more months. You should call and verify, they didn't return my email.
 

AUSTA

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Made these after tearing out the Schumaker mounts on 416 stroker.
Bored with hole saw taking the rubber out of the hole then fitting a rear leaf spring bushing
Also pinned to stopped mount rotating had to elongate k frame hole slightly due to the larger locating bolts & pinned mount with dowel pin to stop turning.
there are 2 different mounts available 1 is made from thin steel the other is about 3/16 thick giving enough for a good thread
DSC00445.jpg


DSC00444.jpg


DSC00446 (2).jpg
 

Cudakiller70

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Some use 1 solid mount on drivers side only
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62520/year/1971/make/dodge/model/challenger

BE03DB3B-3E0A-4A5E-9844-19BE2E04E573.jpeg

Description: These mounts are made for racing. Moroso solid steel motor mounts replace stock, OEM-style rubber mounts to prevent torque loss and binding linkages, a common result of excessive engine movement. These solid steel mounts eliminate the need for bulky torque straps and chains and are covered with a protective zinc coating.

I drilled a hole for 1/2” counter sunk bolt through stock mount. This picture is before I finished welding all around. Used nylock nut with 1/16-1/8” gap at top to allow for engine vibration. Drivers side only.
.
ADD06FAC-AC99-42E1-B1F6-C93DB1F3E6DF.jpeg

I used energy suspension poly transmission mount, holding well on 4 speed 340 car. Rock auto has them also summit.

And you can do
Broken motor mounts.....here's the fix
88E8F9CD-4311-49D8-964A-85CEA5321538.jpeg
640D7DDC-A144-4006-8581-40E1FFEF45A6.jpeg

Basically, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock. I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt so that there is:

(a) no compression on the rubber biscuit
(b) protection from separation due to engine torque
 

YO7_A66

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I just pulled my 340 mounts and ordered a set of the Mighty Mounts tonight. I also will reuse a torque rod on the drivers side.
 

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Ele115

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I'm in the market, as well, for new motor mounts for my 410 SB stroker... soon to be installed hopefully before this winter. I've forever used the factory stock-type rubber motor mounts, but have also used a chain (wrapped in tape) from the driver's cyl head (front) to the k-frame (sway bar) bracket... and I believe that's saved me a few broken motor mounts (always the driver's side). I'm considering to purchase the Schumacher motor mounts (but to still use the wrapped chain as I've successfully done -- hate to experience a broken mount especially when racing... very serious competition pylon autocross and road course lapping sessions).
A big Chain in my wife's Challenger for about 20 years now. It's the only thing that has held up. They look kind of backwoods but it sure beats fishing broken motor mounts out of the driver's side constantly.
 

70chall440

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Normally I make my own torque rods, the chain works as does the modified motor mounts, just depends on what you want.

Schumacher is out of business but USCT has bought the rights to their products, it remains to be seen if they will do the torque rods (nice units).
 
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