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Cheap discs for a Challenger

71Challenger318

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You will come to notice that I am cheap. Not cheap...call it crafty. I like to build things and make things work...not buy them. Buying (expensive) stuff is what you do as a last resort!

What disc brakes will fit on a 4 wheel drum Challenger? I want 4-wheel discs using my stock manual MC. Custom proportioning valve is a given. I heard many years ago that B-van spindles will work on the front. So thats basically B-van discs up front. Then I was thinking maybe Grand Cherokee Dana 44 brakes on the back? I know you can use them on a 8.25 rear pretty easy (like on my Cherokee) so why not a 8.75 rear? Just a little cutting and drilling? The bolt pattern would be the same. Any other tricks you guys know?
 
cheap front discs? The 76-89 FJM body setup. You can usually score them for about $100 complete from the boneyard. Spindles, discs, calipers... just add your own MC.

Van stuff will not work!

The next step up in front is the 76-81 B/R body setup with the 11.75" rotors. A little tougher to find, but they are still out there.
 
So pretty much 80's RWD cars...ok. That shouldn't be to hard to find! Heck I could just wait until after the demo derby at the county fair. They made factory disc cars with manual brakes back in the day right? Stock MC for the drums would work I would think. Just need an adjustible prop valve.

Edit - Found a 76 Aspen V8 wagon. Guy says I can have the brakes off the front. SCORE.
 
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So pretty much 80's RWD cars...ok. That shouldn't be to hard to find! Heck I could just wait until after the demo derby at the county fair. They made factory disc cars with manual brakes back in the day right? Stock MC for the drums would work I would think. Just need an adjustible prop valve.

Edit - Found a 76 Aspen V8 wagon. Guy says I can have the brakes off the front. SCORE.


Yeah, good score!
 
Yeah but I gotta come drag the car out of the woods...and then back with no front wheels. I hope my Cherokee can handle it!

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Well that was easy enough. Just had to use the bottom part of the knuckle with the lower ball joint from the drum setup. I will post pics and notes.
 
the drum brake master can be used as long as you make sure the fluid level is full as the pads wear , the real problem is the residual pressure valve in the drum brake master that will cause the brakes to drag all the time . The valve can be removed by inserting a drywall screw into the brass flare where the line connects to the master & pulling the flare out & removing the rubber valve behind the brass insert & then re-installing the brass flare
 
Check with Scarebird for rear caliper adapters & the cheapest parts to adapt rear discs
 
brake safety

:nono:It is always best to use the correct parts especially with brakes. The less "custom" modified parts you use, the better & safer service you will get. Unless the correct parts are not available where you live. I would also recommend a new master cylinder, not rebuilt. Remember that the master cylinder is called the "master " cylinder for a reason. If it malfunctions, no brakes. Also change the brake fluid as it is hydroscopic , meaning it absorbs moisture. This lowers the boiling point of the fluid which will cause brake fade and possibly no pedal if the moisture in the fluid boils off, causing air in the system. It is also easier to diagnose brake problems if the correct parts for the application are used.
If you want to save money, buy cheap gas or oil but not on your brake system.
Just my professional opinion.
I like to "Macgiver" like every one else, just common sense to not do it here.
 
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