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Considering Cal Tracs

6PKRTSE

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Make no major noises. Can't here anything over my exhaust anyway. I have never hit mine on anything while street driving. No clearance issues when using them.

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Chryco Psycho

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Well I did a Duster a few years back , it was running 2.0 in 60 ' at the track , after installing the Caltracs & adjusting them the best we got was 2.0 in 60 ' so to me they are not worth the hassle .
There are better ways to improve traction IMO .
 
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Flchallenger

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I am considering them as I have a 512 in stroker with a 5 speed tremec. When you get on it the shifter vibrates like crazy and makes a lot of noise. Otherwise it doesn't. I have a aluminum drive shaft with a CVC joint setup by a guy that does them for NASCAR. Motor is new balanced and blue printed. Flywheel was balanced. It's annoying as hell. So I figure either a 4 link rear end setup or cal tracs will stop the change in pinion angle and stop the vibrating shifter.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Ok well what I did was add more 1/2 leafs going forward only on both sides & I use a square top U bolt & clamp them tight to control the front half of the spring
 

erickson

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It’s your Tremec. You’re pinion angle is off or it’s the Tremec Mine did the same thing after 50 miles. The bearings went out. I took it out and sold the piece of shit
 

Flchallenger

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It has a CVC joint in the drive shaft so angles should not be a problem. I wish I have never bought this trans. Drive shaft and angles were set by a guy that builds NASCAR drive shafts. I am going to give the Cal tracs a try.
 

Flchallenger

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Well that added some vibration to things. They damn sure make a difference in my car. Really feel the car grab better and launch better. But I am no racer lets be clear hear. The steel front leaf spring bushing transmit vibration that wasn't there before. Also put the pinion 4 degrees down and trans shifter vibration worse. But when I floor it, it doesn't change the intensity now. So It solved one problem but created another. I think I am going to take the shims out and see if it gets better. Buy the way the rear sway bar bolts were broke due to the rear end wrapping up so much.
 

plymouth67

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Are you sure the input shaft isnt bottoming out in to the back of the crank? I had a Tremec in my 67 Satellite with around 500hp in it and 4:10 gears. Never had any problems. Loved the Tremec!!
 

fasjac

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I’ll chime in on that if it ok. I had a 69 z28
(Should say my bosses) , high dollar retro rod. 502 Ramjet. The builder was out of Tennessee. Anyway, racked it, checked it out. Everything tight. Noticed a triangle polyurethane wedge type trans bushing. Drove the car and noticed a vibration at 40-50 mpg, figured the custom wheels. Get on the car fairly hard through 3 gears. It’s pulled like, em ok but, something wasn’t right. Took it the dyno for some pulls and oil pressure gets to 10psi and I say “stop” for now. Drove around to the front of shop and shut it down. 10 minutes later, it won’t start. No jump box turning this over. Put a breaker bar on the crank, nope. Locked up! The T6 ( input shaft ) however installed had so much pressure on the crank just destroyed the rear crank bearing, that I think had the thrust as on it as well. The problem was the position of the crossmember being slight out/wrong by just a little. You all know what the fix was. It was built to be a trailer queen in beautiful tangerine orange. Just thought I’d throw it out there.
 

fasjac

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I’ll chime in on that if it ok. I had a 69 z28
(Should say my bosses) , high dollar retro rod. 502 Ramjet. The builder was out of Tennessee. Anyway, racked it, checked it out. Everything tight. Noticed a triangle polyurethane wedge type trans bushing. Drove the car and noticed a vibration at 40-50 mpg, figured the custom wheels. Get on the car fairly hard through 3 gears. It’s pulled like, em ok but, something wasn’t right. Took it the dyno for some pulls and oil pressure gets to 10psi and I say “stop” for now. Drove around to the front of shop and shut it down. 10 minutes later, it won’t start. No jump box turning this over. Put a breaker bar on the crank, nope. Locked up! The T6 ( input shaft ) however installed had so much pressure on the crank just destroyed the rear crank bearing, that I think had the thrust as on it as well. The problem was the position of the crossmember being slight out/wrong by just a little. You all know what the fix was. It was built to be a trailer queen in beautiful tangerine orange. Just thought I’d throw it out there.
Sorry, posted on the wrong thread!
 

Flchallenger

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How would you know if the input shaft is bottoming out in the crank?. It has a dual disc clutch and it shifts fine. Slides in and out of gear smooth. I have had the flywheel balanced, bell housing aligned, and a cvc joint instead of a u joint installed on the end of the drive shaft. all done by professionals. Angles changed a hundred times by a multiple number of different people. They did a article in Hot Rod magazine a few years ago on my car. The solution was the cvc driveshaft well that didn't fix it by a long shot. Car was at shop in NC to be painted and they brought in a guy that built driveshafts for Nascar. I have spent years trying to fix this with every conceivable idea. My car may not run more than 300 miles in 15 years but I bet there isn't anyone else on here that has had there car in a national magazine. And they still didn't fix it. If haven't spent so much time and energy on this car it would be hilarious. I have got probably over 160k in this car and doesn't run even today. Taking it back to the engine builder next week. but I am getting close. I have got more fuckings (from car shops) out of this car than I have probably had in the 45 years of marriage.
 

fasjac

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Pull out the old bearing and inspect the back of the crank. Obviously check the input shaft. Also, if that shifter is moving like described, you may want to drain the transmission and check for metal. I know the fluid is expensive but, so is everything.
 

NoCar340

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If the transmission pilot is "bottoming out" in the crankshaft, something is dramatically wrong. That shaft has no fore/aft movement (unless you've got a bad front bearing), and the bell should've been engineered to prevent it.

If the transmission pilot is bottoming out in the crank, I'd simply (and carefully) grind the pilot back a little bit, doing my best to maintain the taper so installation remains easy. Since you have to take the transmission out anyhow, now would be a good time to have a look at your pilot bearing or bushing.
 
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