Door skins?

[stu in wichita]

I've started rebuilding a '74 Challenger that my son and I built about 15 years ago.He put a lot of miles on it and it needs a lot of work again. This time, though, it's for me. Compared with the first time, there's a lot more re-pop parts available, plus the internet makes it waaaaay easier to find parts. Prices don't seem too bad either, which is good since the one thing that hasn't changed is my tight budget.

I'm looking at door skins, and wondered it anyone has any opinions on them. Are they a good easy fit, or is it worth buying the complete door shell for a bit more money?

Also, I've found lower door skins, which are about 8" high. I assume that these crimp on similar to the full skin, and then I'd just have one long seam to weld or panel-bond. Again, anyone have any experience or opinions on these parts?

Thanks for any help or advice.
-Stu

 

[a68postcar]

MHO.........which really don't mean too much, the last thing i would do is the patch panel. not that it don't function, i don't like to weld that long of a run. no matter how good you are with the welder. you still end up with a complete mud job. in my mind you might as well just mud the door you have and save the cash. the only difference i've found is longevity. in other words you will be back in it sooner than you think. if your door is completely wasted on the bottom inside the jamb, you may want to try to get a new door that isnt so bad on the bottom. the main reason is that the shapes of the jamb are hard to recreate. not impossible, but a high degree of difficulty. small patches are easy enough but the radius's are fairly difficult. i prefer to do a complete skin. if you take your time and do it correctly. there is virtually no mud necessary. but if you miss on the body line marks, line-up is very difficult. the best part of the skin job is that you can access the inner parts of the frame and can make the necessary repairs with much less difficulty. i also add new welds on the frame so that the rattles go away. again, my opinion, but you inquired. i have some pics here somewhere if you would like to see some of the related things that go along with this particular job. postcar.

 

[a68postcar]

and the new door is the best option. you get to do the kind of sealing job that the factory should have done. planned obsolesence and all that not withstanding, you know..................

 

[ramenth]

Gonna go with Len on this one if only for a few different reasons.

The time you'll save laying on a complete skin will more than make up for the price of having to put in a patch panel.

Think about it. Even if you're good with the welder and your mud skills are good, you'll spend a day cutting, fitting, welding, mudding. vs two hours tops putting on a whole skin.

Shaving the whole skin will also allow you access to the frame, to take care of any rust which may be between the skin and the frame itself. Remember, this area never sees primer and if you're getting rust on the skin, you're gonna have rust on the frame. A good urethane panel bond will put the skin back on and give a good seal, where moisture won't damage the frame again.

Taking this all into account, of course, a new door is just that: new. No rust to deal with, no welding or bonding. And the time saved is edge, bolt on, and go.

 

[stu in wichita]

Thanks for the info. I guess it's all opinion, but since you've been there, your opinion is worth a lot. When I get the door opened up, I'll definitely need some help figuring out what needs to be addressed.


My reluctance to the new door or complete skin is purely financial. The lower patch is really cheap, so I was drawn in that direction. The door looks to be in pretty decent shape - the rust seems to be only in the front lower corner. If possible, I'd just use a small portion of the patch panel, not the entire length.

I need to remember that this project is a "re-do" from 15 years ago, where budget was a major factor in every decision. Maybe I should learn some lessons and not go the cheapest route again.

Thanks again for the input.

-Stu

 

[ramenth]

Stu, sometimes the money you spend now will save you money in the long run. Personally, I'd rather save and do it right up front, than to kick the problem areas down the road for something else to pop up later.

But I've been doing this professionally for the past 20+ years and know what it means to work on a budget, which is always priority one. After all, if we all had unlimited funds, there would be a Hemi in every garage.

 

[stu in wichita]

I know you're right, Robert. The time saved and the end quality are no doubt worth the money.

If I had known that this car would still be in the family I would have made different choices when we built it 15 years ago. At the time it didn't seem wise to pour cash into a 74 with a 318. In retrospect, that may not have been the best decision, since I really like the '74's and the 318 will be a plus for cheap cruising. It was my son's main transportation, and it's been outside most of the last 15 years. Eventually, he seldom drove it, barely maintained it and rarely washed it. There's "stuff" bult up in every nook and cranny, which has really taken its toll. A lot of metal needs to be replaced - rear frame rails, floor pans and more.

Under my care, it won't have such a tough a life as before.

Thanks for the advice.

-Stu

 

[ramenth]

Seems we both have a thing for '74's. If I can swing something financially in the next four to six months, I'm hoping there might be a '74 'Cuda in the list of projects sitting next to the '74 Barracuda I have now.

Some of the stuff you have going on with your car can be found good used if you beat the bushes hard enough, like frame rails, which can save you some money to be applied to other areas of the car. The nice thing about frame rails in our cars, is that if you get 'em good used, you can look right down into from the top. Nothing hidden. Same way with floor pans. Beat the bushes on here with a "wanted" ad and see if you can find something.