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Fitech EFI, anyone use it?

AUSTA

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Picked it up of a mate for $200 i think they are around $400 being 2 pumps if 1 fails you can turn over to the other although the pump itself is overkill for a stroked 340.
If using return to tank circuit use 3/8 main 3/8 or 5/16 return make sure any rubber joints are using EFI high pressure hose with good clamps
Dont use the small sintered brass filters they clog very quickly use a good holley or equivelent i use 20 micron rear with a 5 micron front .
When fitting put the supply into a bucket & purge the system before connecting to the EFI
Used AN6 fittings on carby connections
EFI.jpg
 

cdummer43

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Picked it up of a mate for $200 i think they are around $400 being 2 pumps if 1 fails you can turn over to the other although the pump itself is overkill for a stroked 340.
If using return to tank circuit use 3/8 main 3/8 or 5/16 return make sure any rubber joints are using EFI high pressure hose with good clamps
Dont use the small sintered brass filters they clog very quickly use a good holley or equivelent i use 20 micron rear with a 5 micron front .
When fitting put the supply into a bucket & purge the system before connecting to the EFI
Used AN6 fittings on carby connections
View attachment 38683
That looks great!!!!! Thanks for the information as well. Finally got mine running again after dropping a valve in #7 last year and potentially putting the Fi setup on in fall.
 

cdummer43

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Picked it up of a mate for $200 i think they are around $400 being 2 pumps if 1 fails you can turn over to the other although the pump itself is overkill for a stroked 340.
If using return to tank circuit use 3/8 main 3/8 or 5/16 return make sure any rubber joints are using EFI high pressure hose with good clamps
Dont use the small sintered brass filters they clog very quickly use a good holley or equivelent i use 20 micron rear with a 5 micron front .
When fitting put the supply into a bucket & purge the system before connecting to the EFI
Used AN6 fittings on carby connections
View attachment 38683
Is that a right hand drive too?!?!??
 

azmoparboy

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HI, I posted here earlier, about installing the small fitech System on my challenger with a 383 stock engine . I have over 2000 miles on it and it has developed a fuel leak coming from around the fuel regulator. Has anyone else experienced fuel leaks off of the injector body around the fuel regulator?
 

azmoparboy

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Checking back in again. It looks like I didn't do my homework good enough, I didn't set the fuel pump to the correct pressure. Real easy to set it, but wasn't in any of the instructions. Looks like the only thing that was taken down was the the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure was too high and that's why it was leaking and pushing fuel out of it.

How to set the correct pressure is on the tanksinc. web site. At the time that I ordered all of the fuel delivery system, that wasn't there. If you are running a #2 or #4 pump in the tank, the fuel pressure needs to be at 100 on the hand held Fitech programming handheld tool. The instructions are even published on fitech's letterhead describing the instructions on how to set the correct fuel pump pressure .

I hope that the higher fuel pressure didn't hurt anything else. If it did, just chalk it up to the school of hard knocks.

I reset the fuel pressure, installed a new pressure regulator took it for a ride, and it made the engine even run better than it had been. Before hand, every once in a while I was getting a small cough from the engine. I think all is well for now, I will keep following this thread to see how everyone is doing. I hope this will help anyone else if they needed the info.

Steve,
 

70Barracuda

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I did the fitech with a Tanksinc fuel injection tank, the only way to go. On the ignition you need a HEI or a ready to run distributor. The R2R is how I went. The cool part is all the wiring coming out of the firewall goes away except the blue, (12v key on) and the brown (12v crank) solder these with the white Fitech together, run the blue to the coil
 

70Barracuda

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How to set the correct pressure is on the tanksinc. web site. At the time that I ordered all of the fuel delivery system, that wasn't there. If you are running a #2 or #4 pump in the tank, the fuel pressure needs to be at 100 on the hand held Fitech programming handheld tool. The instructions are even published on fitech's letterhead describing the instructions on how to set the correct fuel pump pressure .

I need to check that, thanks
 

Heywodja

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Distributor question, is a pertronix with igniter III considered ready to run?
 

azmoparboy

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The little bit that I do know about the 3003 Fitech system is all I know. Hopefully someone else will help. Both of my Mopars are street cruisers only, with old school Chrysler electronic ignition systems

Also see what the enternet can tell you, I start there in hopes of finding the answer

Good luck
Steve
 

70Barracuda

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What Ive been told is any Chrysler type ignition will not run EFI or fitech specifically. It will run but it wont run right. I had a very good ignition system for a carb but it kept giving me the RPM noise fault. Apparently fitech needs a very clean tach signal that the factory style stuff cannot make.
I did switch to a TSP ready to run distributor and that fault code went away. Also the problem it was having as far as how it ran also went away. I have had very little test running being I live in Portland and my car don't do rain. The driving I did do was good and it ran well. What I really liked about the new dist was the wiring. All the wires coming out of the firewall went away except the blue (12v key on) and the brown (12v cranking) Solder those with the white fitech and your good to go. Blue to coil and all the other wires go where they go.
 

Heywodja

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Where did y’all mount to roll over vent, I installed the tanks inc fuel injection tank with an electric pump in tank, I just can’t picture where to locate the vent on my 73 challenger
 
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