Going to a Swap meet- Where do I measure Diff lengths

[John Be]

There is a Springfield, Mo Swap Meet this weekend and I'm on the hunt for a Dana 60 or 8 3/4 rear. Where do I take the measurement to determine if it will fit my 1970 Barracuda.

TC_cuda gave me this info, E body rear end- E Body 70-'74= 46" between spring perches and B body B Body 68 - 70= 44" - 71 - 74 = 47.3"

He says at the spring perches, is that the center of the pad or outside end-end or is it measured at back of backing plate or from axle to axle.

If I'm also looking for a B-Body rear (to fit wider tires) how do I know if it is a B-body and how do you tell what is the difference between a B-body or and E-body.

Thanks all for your time and help!!!

 

[moparleo]

Here is a comprehensive link on a lot of differential and housing specs.
Mopar Rear Ends / Differentials / Etc
Print out this article and take a tape measure and a wallet full of money.

 

[John Be]

Wow moparleo, great information, thanks so much!
Anybody going to this Swap Meet?

 

[John Be]

When measuring axle flange to axle flange, where is the measurement, on the outside or inside of the flange?

If I come across a Dana 60, I know I can relocate the spring perches, but how do you decide what overall length to get. Is there a particular one that bolts to an E-Body? Would I need the axle flange measurement for that?

Is all Dana 60's the same or is there a difference between a truck and car?

If also hunting for a Dana 60, what are some keys points?

Thank you!!

 

[Steve340]

You measure from the outside of the flange were it is machined for the brake drum.
A pair of straight edges makes the job easier.

 

[TC_Cuda]

john be ... did you get all the info you needed? The measurements for the pads is center to center, but as you said, you can weld on new ones. A Dana is a great rear end, but, I really like my 8 3/4. I have 4 "pig's" for it, a 2.76, 3.23, 3.55 and 4.56 and I can change one in about an hour. An 8 3/4 is not as strong, but if you run street tires they last forever and can take a bit of abuse at the track even if you put on a set of sticky tires.

As you can see I'm a fan of the 8 3/4, but remember, This is just my 2 cents Let us know what you get....

 

[John Be]

Yeah TC_Cuda I did get all the info, Thanks!
I have no problem myself using a 8 3/4 I just wanted to be armed with the Dana rear info as well. I building a stroked 440 and a beefed up 727. I appreciate all of your help!!!

 

[Steve340]

john be ... did you get all the info you needed? The measurements for the pads is center to center, but as you said, you can weld on new ones. A Dana is a great rear end, but, I really like my 8 3/4. I have 4 "pig's" for it, a 2.76, 3.23, 3.55 and 4.56 and I can change one in about an hour. An 8 3/4 is not as strong, but if you run street tires they last forever and can take a bit of abuse at the track even if you put on a set of sticky tires.

As you can see I'm a fan of the 8 3/4, but remember, This is just my 2 cents Let us know what you get....

I agree unless you are going to give it a real battering save your money and get the 8 and 3/4.
As strong as 9 inch Ford and will rob far less power from your engine than the super heavy Dana.

 

[TC_Cuda]

John Be .... Did you make it to the swap meet? Any luck finding a rear end?

 

[John Be]

Unfortuantely NO! Any suggestions.
It was a beautiful day and nice to walk around, but everything was mostly GM or Camaro. I guess not many Mopar guys in my neck of the woods.

 

[TC_Cuda]

My best suggestion is patients. Just keep looking. If you have more money than time, you can order from many sources, and that's not a bad way to go, as you get good , new, and rebuilt parts... just something to think about

 

[71Plym]

I used a stock e-body width Dana from Dr. Diff. Springs offset. Custom backspace steel wheels. 295/65 tires. Everything fits snug with no rubbing.
8.75 will work until you get traction, then you may have problems. The Dana was marginally more expensive than a reinforced 8.75, so I went that way.

 

[John Be]

71Plym- Your car looks Great with that stance!

I personally want the body to sit a little lower with a 295 tire or wider and do not want to worried about hitting the 1/4 panel lip, so do you think a B body rear is what I'm needing?

What was your backspace?

 

[71Plym]

71Plym- Your car looks Great with that stance!

I personally want the body to sit a little lower with a 295 tire or wider and do not want to worried about hitting the 1/4 panel lip, so do you think a B body rear is what I'm needing?

What was your backspace?

John, I have found that every car is different. I did lots of measuring and test fitting before anything was finalized. I used hemi style springs with 1" over from ESPO, and they are offset inboard 1". I ran string lines and plumb bobs to make sure things would not hit the quarter panel. I have steel cop rims widened to 8" with custom offset to fit my combination. Offset is in the order of 4.5". A B body rear is about 2" narrower, so you gain about 1" per side. I made that up with my wheel offset. The advantage of a B body rear is that the spring pads will match up with 1" inboard springs on a E body. If you don't weld, then a B body rear may bolt in. My rear was entirely new and made for my car so I was not worried about spring pad location.
IMO, you probably don't really need a B body rear. However, do lots of measuring of your car before final install. Also given the cost of an original dana, I would suggest using aftermarket like a Strange 60, or modify a truck dana to fit your car.

 

[John Be]

Nice info 71Plym, Thank you.

Out of curiosity, If I was looking at a truck Dana 60, what am I looking for? Such as what years, Vehicle Mfg's etc...
Would the tubes need to be cut or does the rear come in lengths of 44" or 46".

 

[71Plym]

Not certain on exact years, but Dana 60 came in many 80s and 90s 3/4 ton dodge trucks and vans. A truck Dana will be wider than a car unit, so you can narrow it to fit your application. Tubes stay in but the ends get cut off and replaced with new ends. Truck/van units typically do not have a mounting for a pinion snubber. Of course you will need to sort out axles, gear set, etc. A good diff guy can help you out, or call Dr. Diff. He did both of mine.
Comp Engineering Rear Axle Housing Ends

 

[oldhemiguy]

If you are still looking I have an E body 8 3/4 for sale