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LED Bulb Conversion

I used a neutral polarity flasher for the turn signals. No need to switch the wires at the plug. The neutral polarity flasher plugs right in. Grounded the flasher wire on the ash tray frame. The original hazard flasher still works, but slower. I left it alone.
 
It didn't work with mine, I had to get the 3 prong flasher. One prong is a ground and with the ground wire it worked great.
I got the one with the ground pigtail and reversing base. Worked fine for my turn signals. However, there is a separate flasher for the hazards and It needs an LED flashing unit too. What unit will work for the hazards? I tried using the one I got for the turn signals but it did not work? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks
 
I got the one with the ground pigtail and reversing base. Worked fine for my turn signals. However, there is a separate flasher for the hazards and It needs an LED flashing unit too. What unit will work for the hazards? I tried using the one I got for the turn signals but it did not work? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks
I can't help with that, my hazards weren't working before I did the LEDs and I haven't had time to track down that issue.
 
When I first switched over to LEDs in my 74 Charger, I only changed to a new electronic flasher unit for my turn signals. I left my old flasher in for my hazards and they worked but they were slower than I liked. I switched to the same electronic flasher with the ground pigtail and they work faster and are bright. Did your lights work with your old flasher unit?
If so, did you try the new flasher without the reverse polarity base.
Terry W.
 
When I first switched over to LEDs in my 74 Charger, I only changed to a new electronic flasher unit for my turn signals. I left my old flasher in for my hazards and they worked but they were slower than I liked. I switched to the same electronic flasher with the ground pigtail and they work faster and are bright. Did your lights work with your old flasher unit?
If so, did you try the new flasher without the reverse polarity base.
Terry W.
After I changed out to the LED bulbs, the hazards just stay on and somewhat dim. Then I tried the flasher unit that worked for the turn signals with the hazards circuit. I tried it with and without the polarity switching base. No joy.
 
I just switched out all my dash lights today to these;

Amazon product ASIN B07R9VW9HY
BIG difference!
I switched mine out a while back with the LED replacements from herbs MOPAR parts. Nice and bright. However, I have my rallye instrument cluster, switches and all the plastic bezels in for restoration at auto instruments. So, I have not seen the new lights in action yet.
 
FYI - I was able to get my hazards working with the United Pacific Flasher unit #90652 without the polarity reversing base installed. Works great. Another problem solved.
 
That's great news. That's why I asked in my response (#25) if you tried it without the polarity reverse base. Sometimes that's all it takes.
Terry W.
 
I'm glad it works now. It's strange that sometimes the reverse base is needed and sometimes it's not. The wiring must somehow get switched when harness is put together.
Terry W.
 
Looking for a bulb replacement for my dash lights . It's a 1970 Cuda standard dash with 1816 bulbs.
Anyone know what I can use instead of the plan 1816 bulb ?
 
Got the side marker lamps (Amber/ Red), Instrument Cluster lamps, front parking/ turn and Tail/ Brake/ Turn lamps and they work great. Just remember to lightly lubricate the housings when you remove the old bulbs. :)
 
Got the side marker lamps (Amber/ Red), Instrument Cluster lamps, front parking/ turn and Tail/ Brake/ Turn lamps and they work great. Just remember to lightly lubricate the housings when you remove the old bulbs. :)
Maybe you said earlier, but what are the bulb numbers and where did you get them? Thanks.
 

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