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One Terminal Melted in Firewall Junction Block

Challenger RTA

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If you are talking about the red wire going to the amp meter,yes. as well the as the black. I cut them off. or securely insulate { heat shrink a few times } for further use.voltmeter or other?
 
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Challenger RTA

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I always welcomed a challenge. If I don't Know I will find out! To give you some confidence or assurance. I had the privilege and honor to serve in the USN as an Electrician's mate. aboard a Destroyer. AS my father did. Aboard the USS Forrestal. Had to fix any thing from stem to stern mast to keel,electrical and electronic. everything thing powered by electricity. A/C,radar,sonar,motors,captain's bunk light and cripto. Had no security clearance, which caused a cripto peanut butter issue. It was a matter of trust.
 
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Mocktwo

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Excellent background for chasing Mopar wiring issues :eek:) and thank you for your service. So not just fixing things, but fixing moving things while rolling with the waves !
 

Challenger RTA

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Having the understanding of the prior info. I said earlier in the post : may put an additional power block by battery. would depend on choice of headlight relay circuit and other accessories adding. this would be an option. fuse alternator as per alternator rating and diagram. Mount close to battery or close to or on back of alternator. consider heat.
 

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moparroy

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The chart below shows 12AWG is yellow in the chart. voltage drop not to relevant for very short runs. the connection are realy the bad point the don't carry the load even when new.
That's a really interesting chart - what is the source? I'd be curious to know how they rate 18 AWG as that is used a lot in automotive. Also curious they rate 12 and 14 AWG equivalent at 15 and 20 Amp - my reference is typically industrial control ratings (spent some time there) and house wiring (done lots of that) and there 12 AWG is typically 20A and 14 AWG is 15A rated (but these are bundled cable or raceway ratings - not open air).
And Agree 100% on the connections - I've had connector issues in my wife's 2013 T&C air bag system already couple times - and yes on the Cuda I soldered and cleaned every pin - replaced or not.
 
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Challenger RTA

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It's off the internet, It has to be true! A/C and D/C are calculated different. the chart below is how it is done.that you should understand. A/C and D/C generate the eddy current in a different way as it travels through the wire. In short if I said that right. also you would know about de rating,grouping of conductors. stranded and solid conductor are different. Every application is different but the same. I also have done house wiring (done lots of that since I was 12 with father) power plant,switch yard and control yards of power plants,sewer plant .water tretment plants,steel mills.hospitals,universities,railroad,airports,pitt port authority,dams bridges,paper mill where the paper is made for fake money.mines .had surface mining papers.industrial control ,RS VIEW 32 controls.and there are others. OK I'm getting tiered thinking of all that. the avatar I use is a power plant I work at last. unbeknownst to me It's like death you don't know when it will be! As of now It was the last place I worked. next job was a Navy base and there was a shooting. then came covid 19. I was requested to at work at flight 93.It was an honor and privilege too.

kW-to-amps-calculation-formula.jpg
 
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moparleo

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You just want to Drive and enjoy..... How can you put band-aides in the wiring and still enjoy it?
My point was that with one of the factory style replacement harnesses ( and they are sold in sections just like the originals) is that they are Replacement harnesses. Just unplug old and plug in new. They are the same colors, connections and are labeled. Not much to think about, just replace. When you do any work on the grounds and connections, whether new or old, clean and coat all connections with di-electric grease to seal the connections from moisture and air ( which is why they oxidize).
 

moparroy

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I guess I am more comfortable with wiring than some - have done lots of electrical and electronic stuff and wiring on cars - and afterall that is what I studied when I was my kids' age.
Sure grounds and connectors are critical; if you are adding modern conveniences you need to make sure the system can handle it and yes any burnt wires need to be replaced.
But I don't replace connecting rods just cause I am rebuilding a motor if they are in good shape and up to the power level being built. If the wiring is generally in good shape - not cracked, not fraying, not burnt - replace what needs doing which is likely most of the bulb sockets and some connectors and pins - clean, solder and heat shrink everything including connectors that look good and I think it should be fine.
Guess I'll find out when I get the Cuda put back together with all the wiring harnesses I reconditioned last summer :). I only replaced one - the transmission harness cause it would have cost more to recondition than replace - it was too far gone. Other than the same alternator / ammeter issue the rest of the core wiring was usable.
Granted yes it is more work than plug and play - but its a labor of love right? For me it was also part of staying on a budget - which is the market value of the finished product not including my labor of love - that did enter into the decision to recondition the wiring harnesses rather than replace completely.
 
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moparleo

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Difference is that you can Magna-flux a connecting rod to check for cracks and the resize it to factory specs. Not really applicable to electrical since you can't see inside the insulation and wrapped wire.
Engine side harness is only about $150. for a new one. Dash harness $500-$600 or so. No guessing or hoping if it is all safe and working correctly.
And restoring your cars harness is exactly what you want. Restore it to new, factory condition. Just like brakes, etc...The whole point of restorations is to restore the car to new condition. You can always upgrade beyond factory specs. But it should be at least in the same condition as when the car was new.
Problems start to happen when grounds get loose or dirty. Connections become corroded, loose etc... This is what causes high resistance in the wiring which in turn causes them to heat up and eventually fail.
They didn't do this when new.
 

Challenger RTA

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I agree with moparleo to an extent. moparroy if you are comfortable go for it. there is a diffent in the solder as you probably know.my opinion even on a new harness the wires and connections for the battery and alternator are not atiquit for the duty. in a few years? the same problem. depends how much use.
 

Challenger RTA

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YES, as moparleo said:"You can always upgrade beyond factory specs. But it should be at least in the same condition as when the car was new." or better.That's why I say bypass the original charging system and other high current loads. Install correct fuses.Or it's just a matter of personal preference. Yes one more thing you can check the wires and insulation like Magna fluxing or dye check. It's called a megger, A megger uses high voltage to check the wires and insulation.It's electrical test equipment and other types,or a meter. you don't need it for this just common sense and experance.
 
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Challenger RTA

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Case and point.Did you ever buy something and it's not what it should be. I have been buying home electrical wire for decades. mostly 12/2G AWG. I have had a couple pairs set to 12/2.well went thought a couple pair. Maybe 10 years ago or more,they changed the wire they said it was better. the strippers are to big.so I set an other pair to the new and improved. Yeah right! I know the old and newer wire when I see it. and use the correct strippers. AWG American Wire Gauge is based on circular mills. It's like buying a 1/2 bolt and getting 3/8 bolt. personally I like to work with something tried and true! make it better.
 
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moparleo

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This whole conversation has strayed a little from the start. Most people haven't worked in the electrical trade or on ships/aircraft electrical systems. A car is not just a scaled down ship... And fewer people have or even know how to use electrical diagnostic equipment. Or sonic testers, Magna-flux or Zyglo fluorescent fluids/black lights, surface plates, engine rotating balancing machines etc...
Basic grounds and connections are at the root of most electrical problems on automobiles. Clean connections equal lower resistance.
Lower resistance equals better and lower temperature current flow. Lower temps And this applies to almost everything mechanical equals lower stresses and component failures.
Keep it clean, tight, sealed. Not rocket science. Not hard to do with common tools and skills.
 

Mocktwo

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So yes moparleo, the point of this thread was my burnt connection through the firewall connector block. All the other wiring my my dash harness appears to be solid and in good shape. So I am not putting a "band aide" on the wiring. I am working through the exact wiring improvement you suggested at the beginning of this tread. BUT I need to work through this at my speed and my capability. None of you would want anyone to blindly alter something in the wiring, get hurt or torch the car. I appreciate the dialogue and perspectives from everyone, which is amazing in this hi-tech world that we can have this great conversation from different locations around the country in just a few days because we share a love for Mopar, cars and making them better.
 

Challenger RTA

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Have a plan,work the plan,plans change. Follow through.that is the biggest.Follow through. personally seen $1to $1,000,000s wasted. and even fatally injury! Would of,Should of,Could of. TO Late! GOOD LUCK!
 
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